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Running lean code

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Old Sep 30, 2021 | 04:56 PM
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Running lean code

I have running lean code on 1994 Ford F-150 5.0l engine. List of new parts or replace: brake booster, fuel pressure regulator, vacuum lines in engine, check valves on secondary air injection system. Egr, vacuum solenoid's and all exhaust is tight. I'm not sure what else is there.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2021 | 05:01 PM
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Check for vacuum leaks in the intake path. Between the throttle body and the heads. (i.e. Between the throttle body and plenum, between the upper plenum and lower manifold, between the manifold and heads, the EGR and IAC Gaskets, etc.)
 
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Old Oct 1, 2021 | 10:22 AM
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How old is that oxygen sensor?

Have you checked fuel pressure?
 
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Old Oct 1, 2021 | 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by 302Ford1994
I have running lean code on 1994 Ford F-150 5.0l engine. List of new parts or replace: brake booster, fuel pressure regulator, vacuum lines in engine, check valves on secondary air injection system. Egr, vacuum solenoid's and all exhaust is tight. I'm not sure what else is there.
if you didnt replace those components because they failed then my only recomendation is to to put your factory working parts back on, properly, anfd disconnect your battery for 10 min, and try again because Honestly all your things you touched its just as likely your parts were bad and thats now throwing confusion to the mix. if they were quality or your verify the current stuff to be good, then sure there is more to check. vacuum leak would be pronounced under idle, not so bad off idle. especially more open, because the idle is not fighting other air sources. use an unlit propane torch and propel it toward leak possible areas, when idle starts to jump, try and keep it up to verify that is the spot getting more rpm from you and wasnt just a idle tick up or something
 
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Old Oct 1, 2021 | 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by SFaulken
Check for vacuum leaks in the intake path. Between the throttle body and the heads. (i.e. Between the throttle body and plenum, between the upper plenum and lower manifold, between the manifold and heads, the EGR and IAC Gaskets, etc.)
I checked all the gasket that you have mentioned except for the head gasket and they are new and sealed.
The straight piece of air intake hose after the air filter is a little cracked at the connection but I sealed it off with duck tape.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2021 | 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by GoinBoarding
How old is that oxygen sensor?

Have you checked fuel pressure?
The oxygen sensor is few months old and the fuel pressure is within specification.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2021 | 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 302Ford1994
I checked all the gasket that you have mentioned except for the head gasket and they are new and sealed.
The straight piece of air intake hose after the air filter is a little cracked at the connection but I sealed it off with duck tape.
How did you "check" them? If it's just a visual inspection, that doesn't mean a whole lot, other than verifying the gasket is there.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2021 | 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 302Ford1994
The oxygen sensor is few months old and the fuel pressure is within specification.
What was the fuel pressure, and under what operating condition? Sometimes the pressure checks out at idle, but when under load and fuel consumption goes up, the pump can't keep up, and the system goes lean. Therefore I advocate checking fuel pressure under load. It can be a little tricky, but I tape the gauge to the windshield and go for a drive.

When was the last time you changed the fuel filter?
 
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Old Oct 1, 2021 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by SFaulken
How did you "check" them? If it's just a visual inspection, that doesn't mean a whole lot, other than verifying the gasket is there.
I sprayed carb cleaner around the gasket areas no change in idle
 
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Old Oct 1, 2021 | 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by GoinBoarding
What was the fuel pressure, and under what operating condition? Sometimes the pressure checks out at idle, but when under load and fuel consumption goes up, the pump can't keep up, and the system goes lean. Therefore I advocate checking fuel pressure under load. It can be a little tricky, but I tape the gauge to the windshield and go for a drive.

When was the last time you changed the fuel filter?
A Couple of months ago I changed the fuel filter.
What is the normal operation psi range while driving. If it's low it's a tell sign a fuel pump problem?
 
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Old Oct 1, 2021 | 08:13 PM
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In your original post you mentioned a lean code. Do you recall the code number.

 
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Old Oct 1, 2021 | 08:16 PM
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Ok, so that leads me in 2 directions. A) Verify that the carb cleaner you used is actually flammable (I know, it sounds fecking stupid, but not all of it is, and I've gotten my **** bit by it before when using it to try and chase down vacuum leaks), and B) if you verify that it is, I'd start looking at fuel pressure and/or exhaust leaks.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2021 | 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by SFaulken
Ok, so that leads me in 2 directions. A) Verify that the carb cleaner you used is actually flammable (I know, it sounds fecking stupid, but not all of it is, and I've gotten my **** bit by it before when using it to try and chase down vacuum leaks), and B) if you verify that it is, I'd start looking at fuel pressure and/or exhaust leaks.
Thats what GoinBoarding saying the same about fuel pressure and use a gauge while driving to check what happens.
On the exhaust connection (ball and socket kind) I replaced the bolts, cleaned and sanded the rust around the connection for better seal.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2021 | 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by sandymane
In your original post you mentioned a lean code. Do you recall the code number.
I don't recall off hand but it's running lean on bank 1. I'm not sure if it was upstream or downstream.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2021 | 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 302Ford1994
Thats what GoinBoarding saying the same about fuel pressure and use a gauge while driving to check what happens.
On the exhaust connection (ball and socket kind) I replaced the bolts, cleaned and sanded the rust around the connection for better seal.
I generally use some Red or UltraCopper RTV on the ball/socket connection when I hook those up. I honestly don't know if it's necessary, but it's something that I just got in the habit of doing on snowmobiles over the years, as they use a similar ball and socket exhaust connector, and they're *much* more sensitive to exhaust leaks, being 2-strokes.
 
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