Baffling noise
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,193
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From: Near Los Angeles
Baffling noise
So I have a hotrod 300 inline six, ported, larger than oe valves, msd, header and dual exh, nice cam, 351w pistons, 600 cfm carb, etc. etc. Daily driver. New engine with a new to me rebuilt zf5 trans. Hate the ... noisy, slow shifting trans with a passion. Anyway, I have a noise that is can't track down. When I shift from 2nd to 3rd (granny 1st) I get a buzz sound for a second. If you keep you jaws together and say "Vvvvvvvvv," that's the noise. It's only there if the rpms rise above, say, 2,000 before I shift. From 3rd to 4th I rarely hear a noise, and if I do it is a fraction of the 2nd to 3rd noise. Any ideas?
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Joined: Feb 2007
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
How good a rebuild was the zf5 trans? That might be the issue? Is it a new to you noise, any issues with the shifting part, other than noisy, slow and you do not like it? I would suggest to insp the drive line. Maybe a u joint it getting bad, they chatter. Maybe adjust the clutch a bit?
Then maybe change the trans fluid and strain it thru some cheese cloth/t shirt and look for signs of wear, glitter, chunks, plating coming off? Other that that, it sounds like a possible impending internal trans issue. Drive it until it gives up, turn the radio up, keep the RPM's low (below 2000) and shift BEFORE you normally hear it.
If it let's go on you, you will then have an excuse to get ride of the zf5 that is noisy, slow. All I got.
Then maybe change the trans fluid and strain it thru some cheese cloth/t shirt and look for signs of wear, glitter, chunks, plating coming off? Other that that, it sounds like a possible impending internal trans issue. Drive it until it gives up, turn the radio up, keep the RPM's low (below 2000) and shift BEFORE you normally hear it.
If it let's go on you, you will then have an excuse to get ride of the zf5 that is noisy, slow. All I got.
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,193
Likes: 385
From: Near Los Angeles
How good a rebuild was the zf5 trans? That might be the issue? Is it a new to you noise, any issues with the shifting part, other than noisy, slow and you do not like it? I would suggest to insp the drive line. Maybe a u joint it getting bad, they chatter. Maybe adjust the clutch a bit?
Then maybe change the trans fluid and strain it thru some cheese cloth/t shirt and look for signs of wear, glitter, chunks, plating coming off? Other that that, it sounds like a possible impending internal trans issue. Drive it until it gives up, turn the radio up, keep the RPM's low (below 2000) and shift BEFORE you normally hear it.
If it let's go on you, you will then have an excuse to get ride of the zf5 that is noisy, slow. All I got.
Then maybe change the trans fluid and strain it thru some cheese cloth/t shirt and look for signs of wear, glitter, chunks, plating coming off? Other that that, it sounds like a possible impending internal trans issue. Drive it until it gives up, turn the radio up, keep the RPM's low (below 2000) and shift BEFORE you normally hear it.
If it let's go on you, you will then have an excuse to get ride of the zf5 that is noisy, slow. All I got.
I don't know if the trans had noise before I got it. I had it rebuilt and installed resurfaced flywheel and new clutch. New clutch wobbled, but no noise that I remember. Installed smaller clutch 11" to 10", and that is when the noise began. Thanks.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,193
Likes: 385
From: Near Los Angeles
I wondered if it could be the Summit brand block to trans spacer that vibrates. Their name is cut in the plate with cnc.
I will adjust the clutch and ck the drive line.
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Well out of warranty is out of warranty (by date or mileage) the overhaul shop always one or 2 ways to beat ya to it. Or more like give ya a wallet beating. If it is a (new to you) noise have you checked everything you can reach and or see to have loosened up over time and or the small amount of miles on it might have vibrated something loose.
Maybe have a passenger ride and listen for it, do NOT tell them what to listen for, just drive it and see if they hear it.??
Maybe have a passenger ride and listen for it, do NOT tell them what to listen for, just drive it and see if they hear it.??
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Albuquerque
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,193
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From: Near Los Angeles
I too suspected the t.o. bearing, but then I realized that it would be making noise the entire time the clutch was engaged. This noise came when I let off gas to shift, then vanished. Well, I started making the rounds, checking things to find what might be loose, and to my surprise the headers had loosened at the head. I retorqued and noise is gone. I had never heard an exhaust leak like that! But it's gone and I'm happy, very happy it's not the trans or clutch. Thanks one and all for the help.
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Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,253
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Have you ever heard of Nord-Lock washers? Get some at most professional supply houses, like Fastenall.
https://www.nord-lock.com/nord-lock/...AaAvLIEALw_wcB
https://www.nord-lock.com/nord-lock/...AaAvLIEALw_wcB
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,193
Likes: 385
From: Near Los Angeles
Have you ever heard of Nord-Lock washers? Get some at most professional supply houses, like Fastenall.
https://www.nord-lock.com/nord-lock/...AaAvLIEALw_wcB
https://www.nord-lock.com/nord-lock/...AaAvLIEALw_wcB
The loosening of my studs is a problem I have not experienced before. But these studs are now 12 years old and, it seems, time to replace. For anyone with a 300 inline six, use grade 8 studs 3/8--16 threads with copper no sieze on threads, and 3/8--24 threads with a grade 8 crimp nut . Install the gasket, and put a bead of high temp sealant around the mating surface of the intake runners and install intake and exhaust. Tighten snug with a wrench, then torque to half spec beginning in the center and spiraling out in counter or clockwise direction. Go back when complete and torque to full spec in the same manner. Run the engine to reach full running temp or longer. Let cool fully to touch and retorque in the same manner. Repeat once more and forget about it.
Hillco fasteners is a good place to order the studs and nuts. https://www.hillcofasteners.com/cat/...old-Studs.aspx
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,253
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Well even with studs to mount the headers, I have seen the Nord-Lock washers work great. I use them on my Hedman headers on the ol red truck. And I use them about everywhere else I replace a bolt, nut, stud. If I see a Nord-Lock washer that is a reminder that I have been into it once before.
Remflex gaskets='s awesome. https://catalog.remflex.com/
JBG carries them RF....https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Hea...products/1102/
300/6 https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Hea...uctinfo/10071/
Remflex gaskets='s awesome. https://catalog.remflex.com/
JBG carries them RF....https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Hea...products/1102/
300/6 https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Hea...uctinfo/10071/
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,193
Likes: 385
From: Near Los Angeles
Well even with studs to mount the headers, I have seen the Nord-Lock washers work great. I use them on my Hedman headers on the ol red truck. And I use them about everywhere else I replace a bolt, nut, stud. If I see a Nord-Lock washer that is a reminder that I have been into it once before.
Remflex gaskets='s awesome. https://catalog.remflex.com/
JBG carries them RF....https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Hea...products/1102/
300/6 https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Hea...uctinfo/10071/
Remflex gaskets='s awesome. https://catalog.remflex.com/
JBG carries them RF....https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Hea...products/1102/
300/6 https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Hea...uctinfo/10071/
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,253
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
No I read it, " The flange of the header and the flange of the intake are diff. thicknesses and each are clamped to the head with a stud or bolt between them and a large, thick concave washer hold both flanges. Since the flanges are diff. thicknesses, I had to take the oe washer and grind it down on one side to compensate for the diff thicknesses."
I must not of unsterood it, I am working on my compensation skills as I type this.
I must not of unsterood it, I am working on my compensation skills as I type this.
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,193
Likes: 385
From: Near Los Angeles
No I read it, " The flange of the header and the flange of the intake are diff. thicknesses and each are clamped to the head with a stud or bolt between them and a large, thick concave washer hold both flanges. Since the flanges are diff. thicknesses, I had to take the oe washer and grind it down on one side to compensate for the diff thicknesses."
I must not of unsterood it, I am working on my compensation skills as I type this.
I must not of unsterood it, I am working on my compensation skills as I type this.
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,253
Likes: 5,815
From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Pass if fwd, pass it back, side to side.... just do not bogart the information, is my way of thinking. My race car buddy turned me on to those washers. I get mine from Fastenal.
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