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The way I've done it for close to 50 years, and as I was instructed in High School....
Tighten the spindle nut fairly tight. Maybe 30-40foot pounds. Just very very snug will do it
Back it off. Tighten until all play is removed, and then give it about a 1/6 to 1/4 turn. Whichever gets the cotter pin hole to line up.
The initial tightening is to "Set" the bearings, and squeeze the grease out from under the rollers. Then the final tightening sets the bearing preload.
Without the first tightening, you may find that you will develop play in the bearings after a short time. This has worked well for me on every build, every trailer, with never a bearing failure.
The way I've done it for close to 50 years, and as I was instructed in High School....
Tighten the spindle nut fairly tight. Maybe 30-40foot pounds. Just very very snug will do it
Back it off. Tighten until all play is removed, and then give it about a 1/6 to 1/4 turn. Whichever gets the cotter pin hole to line up.
The initial tightening is to "Set" the bearings, and squeeze the grease out from under the rollers. Then the final tightening sets the bearing preload.
Without the first tightening, you may find that you will develop play in the bearings after a short time. This has worked well for me on every build, every trailer, with never a bearing failure.
Hi Mikey
Would you use this procedure for already run in bearings?
The way I've done it for close to 50 years, and as I was instructed in High School....
Tighten the spindle nut fairly tight. Maybe 30-40foot pounds. Just very very snug will do it
Back it off. Tighten until all play is removed, and then give it about a 1/6 to 1/4 turn. Whichever gets the cotter pin hole to line up.
The initial tightening is to "Set" the bearings, and squeeze the grease out from under the rollers. Then the final tightening sets the bearing preload.
Without the first tightening, you may find that you will develop play in the bearings after a short time. This has worked well for me on every build, every trailer, with never a bearing failure.
One thing I add is to rotate the hub in the forward direction while tightening the nut.
If you want a number for the final tightening it's around 25 INCH lbs. BTW, the 30-40 ft lbs initial is enough for front spindles. For rear spindles (like on an F250) I crank them tighter...80ish ft lbs for the initial, then back the nut off then snug it up. Seems to take more to "seat" the rear bearings.
Figure 17 below link, page 8, says .001-.010" endplay for a Dana 60. LoL
See page 8 of 16 in below Dana 60 Bible.
see billavista.com/forums/1674005-spindle-nut-torque _ _ _.
I use the Mario Andretti tool to install the bearing races. Pack the bearings with a bearing packer, then put some grease inside the hub not too much. "It will help to dissipate heat". I then install the inner bearing and seal. I use the same bearing "race driver" to set the inner seal. After that you are ready to install the hub and outer bearing. "Mikey Lawless" procedure is spot on. Then you are off to the races, no pun intended, NOT!