When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
E350 Started making this repetitive puffing sound.
The other team was driving it. They pulled over to check it out, couldn't find the exact problem, but they found this piece on the floor. Not sure if it was from the van but I'm hoping that it is so that I can plug it back in (hoping for an easy inexpensive fix of course).
Got the van towed to my house. The tow truck guy said it was a loose hose most likely.
That part doesn't look like anything I've ever seen inside the cabin that would affect the engine---it appears to be something left behind by someone attempting another repair.
With the conditions you describe there should be DTC's illuminating the "check engine light". Retrieve those codes and report back please.
That part doesn't look like anything I've ever seen inside the cabin that would affect the engine---it appears to be something left behind by someone attempting another repair.
With the conditions you describe there should be DTC's illuminating the "check engine light". Retrieve those codes and report back please.
Ill see if i can borrow a code reader from Autozone. I would normally drive it there but it's pretty bad right now.
The other team was driving it. They pulled over to check it out, couldn't find the exact problem, but they found this piece on the floor. Not sure if it was from the van but I'm hoping that it is so that I can plug it back in (hoping for an easy inexpensive fix of course).
Got the van towed to my house. The tow truck guy said it was a loose hose most likely.
Engine shaky when idling. Exhaust also shaky.
This is a 1" round x 3" long hose.
Does anyone recognize this hose?
It's a 5.4L van.
It looks similar to one of the turbo hoses on my former E350 6.0 PSD (diesel) van. It's nothing from a 5.4. The noise sounds like a blown plug. Get a good flashlight and start looking. You need to remove the obvious like the air cleaner and dog house. Take your time. You don't need the engine running to find the problem as it's hidden in plain view as a set of keys on my desk.
Blown motor. Plug was punched out. ****.
Sent to ford dealer. New engine replacement.
Van cost 10,500
New engine cost $8800
Yup... oh well.
Paying 19k for this van... trying to stay positive. New engine. Ill take care of it the right way from here on.
CNG van. $1.71/gallon is the only thing im happy about right now. I will make the money back in fuel savings after about 1 year. Shake it off and get back to work is all i can do.
My friend Robert has CNG and he repaired a blown plug on a 5.4 2v engine. I have another friend that owns a 5.4 and he blew a plug and had it repaired for $500. It's not the end of the world. Great job on the second opinion!
when you say blown plug, does that mean the cylinder punched it out? The guy showed me the plug and it was literally punched with a metal piece upwards. he put a camera and showed me a gap inside the cylinder
when you say blown plug, does that mean the cylinder punched it out? The guy showed me the plug and it was literally punched with a metal piece upwards. he put a camera and showed me a gap inside the cylinder
That's a phrase we use to describe a spark plug that is ejected from its threaded hole in the cylinder head. For various reasons the plug stripped the threads and cylinder pressure pushed it out.
There are more than a few known and trusted repair kits and processes, the top one being Time-Sert----you can readily find related threads in the Modular Motors sub-forum, V8 or V10. I'm not against replacing the entire engine---I did it in a 2005 E-350 due very low hot idle oil pressure---but had their been an easier quicker alternative I'd have gone that direction first.
Get another opinion from a qualified experienced shop whose done more than a few Time-Sert repairs. I'd also suggest becoming better acquainted with what's become an often used practice for DIY spark plug changes.
The typical failure is compression forces out the spark plug, threads and all. Not the cylinder physically contacting and pushing out the spark plug. I haven’t read of a spark plug coming loose, falling onto the combustion chamber then being pushed out by the cylinder. Not in a Ford modular engine anyway. That would likely seize the engine.
If the damage is more than new spark plug threads will resolve, you should only need a cylinder head, not a long block or whole engine. Maybe downtime is a factor for you.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
