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Hey guys, looking into installing one of these. My question would be on a 2020 super duty 7.3L (listed as 240amp alternator) how large could I go on the charger? I would have LiFePO4 batteries in the RV and want those to charge as fast as is safe for the truck. I believe they go as high as 60a (or more?)
Additionally, any issue with mounting this charger under the truck bed somewhere? I know they get hot.
I installed a 20A DC-DC Renogy unit in my slide-in camper, feeding 2 LPO4 batteries. I found that the stock truck wiring and umbilical cable insufficient: the charger was drawing 30 amps in order to send 20 to the batteries. First, I had a melt in my umbilical cable end connection. I repaired that, then blew the 30A truck fuse. I ended up installing a battery isolator, remote switch, and heavier cable direct from the truck battery to the charger to support the draw from the charger.
I would not install this piece of electronic equipment under the truck bed; mine is inside the camper, clean and dry, and easily available for inspection/troubleshooting.
As for size, 20 amps suits me based on my usage. I'd think a 240A alternator should be good for 80A +, but I really don't know. I found good information about DC-DC charging over at Tech forum at RV.Net.
Hey guys, looking into installing one of these. My question would be on a 2020 super duty 7.3L (listed as 240amp alternator) how large could I go on the charger? I would have LiFePO4 batteries in the RV and want those to charge as fast as is safe for the truck. I believe they go as high as 60a (or more?)
Additionally, any issue with mounting this charger under the truck bed somewhere? I know they get hot.
So I haven't spent a ton of time reading up on all of this, so feel free to correct me if necessary…
I am (currently) running 3 Lion Energy LiFeP04 batteries in my pull behind camper. When I ordered my 22 SD I opted for the 332 A alternator to make sure I have plenty of alternator to install a DC2DC charger. Saying that, I have no idea how much “extra” I will have, but I only plan to install a 30A DC2DC charger and I figure this will be more than enough “extra.”
I run all Victron in my camper, so naturally will be going with the Victron Orion Smart 12/12 30A charger. I will also go with the isolated version. I am fuzzy on the isolated vs non isolated version, but in several places I have read that motor homes are good with non isolated since all batteries share the same ground (chassis) and usually pull behinds are good with isolated. I’m sure there’s more to it, but I will go with the isolated version.
I will also run all new wire. These in particular can accommodate up to 6g wire, so I will run 6g wire from my battery and a truck ground to an Anderson connector that I will install near the 7 pin. In my camper I will mount the DC2DC charger close to the batteries, then run more 6g wire from it to the mating Anderson connector on my trailer side. From everything I’ve read, it’s better to mount the charger as close to your house batteries as you can. Again, maybe Im wrong here, but all the setups I have seen had the DC2DC chargers located in the same places as their solar chargers and inverters/chargers, which is right next to the batteries.
I know that some companies do make larger models, such as 60A, unfortunately all I’ve seen from Victron is 12A and 30A chargers. I’d be good with a 45 or so… I believe Renogy and maybe a company called Redarc makes bigger ones though… however I also have solar on the roof, so I’m ok with only having a 30A charger.
I have wondered if I could simply turn on my truck, then turn on all electronics, AC,etc… and then put an amp clamp around the battery wires and get a rough estimate of how much energy is being required. I would imagine there is a more definitive answer somewhere in paperwork, but not sure where to find it… Maybe there is a section in Forscan that would give a reading for this which may even be more accurate…?
Going high amp on the DC-DC charger, the limitation will be the cabling. Using the wire gauge calculator below (one I'm very familiar with), a 40 amp output DC-DC charger would need 1 gauge cabling to keep the voltage loss to under 3%. The numbers I used are:
50 amps (on the input side)
50' (round trip distance, this is probably shorter that it will really be)
12v
I considered putting in a DC-DC charger for my 560 Ah LiFePO4 battery bank. But the cost and effort was too much. I chose to disconnect my trailer's LiFePO4 battery bank from the 7 pin circuit altogether. The solar panels on the roof are providing plenty of charge and after a year I have found no need to charge from the tow vehicle. The trailer's breakaway brake is covered.
I ran a 1/0 pure copper welding cable from the passenger side battery + post to a 300 amp fuse and then to the rear of the truck. I also ran a 1/0 pure copper welding cable from the passenger side battery - post to a frame ground directly below the battery. At the rear of the truck I installed a Trailer Vision housing for an Anderson SB175 connector outfitted with silver plated contacts.
This connection combination is good for 280 amps cable to cable. It allows me to plug into the truck for a high current load and not suffer a huge voltage drop in the process. Note that the power should be drawn from the battery directly - never connect a load directly to the alternator itself.
I would install the DC-DC charger in the trailer. Run a 1/0 + and - pair of wires to it and use the Anderson connector for connection duties. Buy a quality unit like the Victron Orion-TR and you will have no issues with charging those LiFEPO4 batteries - and you can use Bluetooth on your phone to monitor your batteries state of charge, adjust settings, etc. The Victron will detect when you shut the engine off and shut itself down too - if you want it to.
To connect the 1/0 cable to the Victron unit you will need to reduce the cable size down to 6AWG. A pair of BlueSea PowerPosts will do that simply and safely.
great video, thanks. how could i calculate the highest amperage charger i can go with a 270a alternator?
That's a good question. I haven't seen a good formula or a way to get a definitive answer. To come up with a good number, I think you need to determine what the current loads are. Turn everything on and see what a clamp on ammeter has to say.
I'll throw out a suggestion to start the discussion: The charger should draw no more than half what the smallest alternator can produce.
I say "smallest" because many of us have dual alternators and the two alternators are not rated the same. On a dual alternator system, it is common for only one alternator to be operating at a time.
Even at half the rated output, I think that's awfully high. Most batteries are not rated to accept a huge amp charge. Some lead acid batteries used on RV's aren't going to want more than 30 amps. Consult the data sheet for your batteries before proceeding.
That's a good question. I haven't seen a good formula or a way to get a definitive answer. To come up with a good number, I think you need to determine what the current loads are. Turn everything on and see what a clamp on ammeter has to say.
I'll throw out a suggestion to start the discussion: The charger should draw no more than half what the smallest alternator can produce.
I say "smallest" because many of us have dual alternators and the two alternators are not rated the same. On a dual alternator system, it is common for only one alternator to be operating at a time.
Even at half the rated output, I think that's awfully high. Most batteries are not rated to accept a huge amp charge. Some lead acid batteries used on RV's aren't going to want more than 30 amps. Consult the data sheet for your batteries before proceeding.
Thanks, these are LiFePO4 batteries so they'll draw everything they're given; even to the point of destroying your alternator if you don't have the right charger/draw.
I'm thinking I'm pretty safe with a 30a charger and 270a alternator. I've ordered it and will put it in when it comes, we'll see!
Thanks, these are LiFePO4 batteries so they'll draw everything they're given; even to the point of destroying your alternator if you don't have the right charger/draw.
I'm thinking I'm pretty safe with a 30a charger and 270a alternator. I've ordered it and will put it in when it comes, we'll see!
I think that is a very safe amp rating for a charger in this situation.
Thanks, these are LiFePO4 batteries so they'll draw everything they're given; even to the point of destroying your alternator if you don't have the right charger/draw.
I'm thinking I'm pretty safe with a 30a charger and 270a alternator. I've ordered it and will put it in when it comes, we'll see!
Same here, I have LiFeP04’s and 30 A will be fine. I mostly want it so that I can run my fridge on 120V while traveling and the truck’s 332A alternator(s) will supply that via the 30A charger. I also have solar, but sometimes we may be traveling at night, or in cloudy/rainy weather. This will allow me not to run the fridge on propane while driving though.
Good points above though about using a step down. I have lots of 1/0 that I can use and then switchover to 6AWG at the connections.
My thought was to limit the draw of the alternators so they would not be overworked. I used the same DC-DC charger Victron Orion-TR 30 amp. B-MaxFW4 gave some good advice in his post. I used 2.0 from the battery to the Andersen plug and then Andersen plug to the 5th wheel was 6 gauge.
My reason for doing this was to run the fridge on 110.
I ran a 1/0 pure copper welding cable from the passenger side battery + post to a 300 amp fuse and then to the rear of the truck. I also ran a 1/0 pure copper welding cable from the passenger side battery - post to a frame ground directly below the battery. At the rear of the truck I installed a Trailer Vision housing for an Anderson SB175 connector outfitted with silver plated contacts.
This connection combination is good for 280 amps cable to cable. It allows me to plug into the truck for a high current load and not suffer a huge voltage drop in the process. Note that the power should be drawn from the battery directly - never connect a load directly to the alternator itself.
I would install the DC-DC charger in the trailer. Run a 1/0 + and - pair of wires to it and use the Anderson connector for connection duties. Buy a quality unit like the Victron Orion-TR and you will have no issues with charging those LiFEPO4 batteries - and you can use Bluetooth on your phone to monitor your batteries state of charge, adjust settings, etc. The Victron will detect when you shut the engine off and shut itself down too - if you want it to.
To connect the 1/0 cable to the Victron unit you will need to reduce the cable size down to 6AWG. A pair of BlueSea PowerPosts will do that simply and safely.
B-man,
I know this thread is a year old, but, how/where, in the bed, did you mount the Trailervision mount for the Anderson connector? I want to do the same, but don't want to cut into the bed.
I am installing Victron Energy Orion-Tr Smart 12/12/30 – Isolated – 30 Amp DC-DC Charger in a travel trailer I am building. So for my 2020 F150 Lariat side, I wanted some advice. Can i just run the 6g red wire and use the black from the trailer? That is how the instructions from Victon look but that may be for a Van setup. Is it better to run black as well form the truck? Also, I assume the red needs to run from direct to the F150 battery. If I need black, can it just go form the chassis on the back of the truck?
Originally Posted by chadstickpoindexter
So I haven't spent a ton of time reading up on all of this, so feel free to correct me if necessary…
I am (currently) running 3 Lion Energy LiFeP04 batteries in my pull behind camper. When I ordered my 22 SD I opted for the 332 A alternator to make sure I have plenty of alternator to install a DC2DC charger. Saying that, I have no idea how much “extra” I will have, but I only plan to install a 30A DC2DC charger and I figure this will be more than enough “extra.”
I run all Victron in my camper, so naturally will be going with the Victron Orion Smart 12/12 30A charger. I will also go with the isolated version. I am fuzzy on the isolated vs non isolated version, but in several places I have read that motor homes are good with non isolated since all batteries share the same ground (chassis) and usually pull behinds are good with isolated. I’m sure there’s more to it, but I will go with the isolated version.
I will also run all new wire. These in particular can accommodate up to 6g wire, so I will run 6g wire from my battery and a truck ground to an Anderson connector that I will install near the 7 pin. In my camper I will mount the DC2DC charger close to the batteries, then run more 6g wire from it to the mating Anderson connector on my trailer side. From everything I’ve read, it’s better to mount the charger as close to your house batteries as you can. Again, maybe Im wrong here, but all the setups I have seen had the DC2DC chargers located in the same places as their solar chargers and inverters/chargers, which is right next to the batteries.
I know that some companies do make larger models, such as 60A, unfortunately all I’ve seen from Victron is 12A and 30A chargers. I’d be good with a 45 or so… I believe Renogy and maybe a company called Redarc makes bigger ones though… however I also have solar on the roof, so I’m ok with only having a 30A charger.
I have wondered if I could simply turn on my truck, then turn on all electronics, AC,etc… and then put an amp clamp around the battery wires and get a rough estimate of how much energy is being required. I would imagine there is a more definitive answer somewhere in paperwork, but not sure where to find it… Maybe there is a section in Forscan that would give a reading for this which may even be more accurate…?
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Victron Energy Orion-Tr Smart 12/12/30 – Isolated – 30 Amp DC-DC Charger
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