F350 Brake problems
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F350 Brake problems
I just got the front end on my F350 back together and took it for a short drive on the interstate. Both sides have new brake pads and repacked wheel bearings and the right side (passenger) had a new rotor replaced, the brake caliper(sp) on the right side was tough to compress, even with the master cylinder cap off (I do this no matter what). Anyways, today I took the truck out and it drove fine for about 10 minutes and then I smelled brakes getting hot, and when I hit the brake, it went hard left. Upon further inspection while stopped the right side smelled bad and the rotor and rim were hot to the touch, while the left side was normal. My guess is the caliper on the right hand side is either stuck or partially stuck but why would it pull to the left while pressing on the brake in motion?
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From: Right Next to U
The one on the right was engaged -ALWAYS, thus when you applied braked the right side was already on the rotor, and the left was just engageing..........caliper is stuck with air behind it or mositure in the system causing it to bind. Rebuild or replace.
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Thats what I figured. I wonder if they still have rebuilt or new brake calipers at the auto parts places, F350's are hard to find in bone yards around here and when you find one, its a shell only.
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I'm going to replace the caliper. Anyways, where is the bleeder on the right (passenger) caliper and is there a bleeder on the master cylinder (other than the MC cap). On these trucks, do you need to bleed all 4 wheels or just the one that the work is being done to? Thanx
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From: Memphis, TN
I haven't been into my F150's front brakes yet, but the bleeder on older Fords is usually above where the line attaches on the back of the caliper. Master cylinders don't have a bleeder, you'll have to take it off and bench bleed it if you feel it needs it. Anytime you open the lines on a brake system it's best to bleed the whole system. Start with the wheel furthest from the MC (pass. rear) and work to the closest to the MC (driver ft.)
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I was hoping that I wouldn't hear that, bleed the whole system, blah. Anyways, if a new caliper is gonna be installed I knew it would need to be bled while in the system but I was hoping I could localize the work to that front right wheel, ohh well.
Last edited by RabidJade; Nov 4, 2003 at 01:07 PM.
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New conclusions:
I got the wheel off and the rotor is at the same resistance as it was when I put it on. Like I said I had to put a brake rotor and new pads on and I repacked the wheel bearings. Anyways, just to get the pads on I had to bottom the wheel cylinders out to get the new pads onto the new rotors and even with this, there was a little resistance which I thought would go away after I drove the trucks a few miles. Discolored rotors and brake shoes with a slight tinge of burning brakes proved this theory wrong. The resistance against the rotor is still the same as when I put the brakes on the first time. Any sugestions?
I got the wheel off and the rotor is at the same resistance as it was when I put it on. Like I said I had to put a brake rotor and new pads on and I repacked the wheel bearings. Anyways, just to get the pads on I had to bottom the wheel cylinders out to get the new pads onto the new rotors and even with this, there was a little resistance which I thought would go away after I drove the trucks a few miles. Discolored rotors and brake shoes with a slight tinge of burning brakes proved this theory wrong. The resistance against the rotor is still the same as when I put the brakes on the first time. Any sugestions?
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Never took it off. It doesn't fit the chraraistic of a stuck caplier, as I replaced them on other vehicles before. The brakes are still tough on the rotor but the capiler still engages like it should with the brake pedal being pushed. I might try bleeding just that capiler to see if it relieves the preasure on the rotor, might also be a moot point too.
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From: GANS
Are both sides of the rotor discolored?
if your caliper was hard to compress, either it is corroded/rusted, or there is a clogged line.
More than likely, your caliper is hosed.
if your caliper was hard to compress, either it is corroded/rusted, or there is a clogged line.
More than likely, your caliper is hosed.
Last edited by bremen242; Nov 4, 2003 at 05:25 PM.
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I don't see how it could bind, the design is pretty simple and both "floater pins" are centered as they should be. My guess is the caliper needs to be replaced which is no problem. The old caliper was hard to compress, almost broke a c-clamp doing it, and even bottomed out, the pads were real snug against the rotor, creating the friction on both sides to bring us to where we are. Thanks for the help guys, I got some work to do this weekend, hehe.