I was able to feel the clamp and with some bad light I was able to take a picture of the Oetiker clamp:


Wasn't exactly sure which constant tension band to order (size-wise) for the hose to pump connection. I measured 18.4mm outer hose diameter which I thought would be 3/4" but 18.4mm is slightly narrower. Found these for which 18.4mm would seem to fall in the range: https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Co...e-p/a18128.htm

 

This may help when you remove and install the clamps. Scroll down to VIDEOS.

https://www.google.com/search?q=oeti...-wAMAAAAAYSf--

 

Thanks. I'm going to try to leave the oetiker clamp as is. I'll clean up some more to see if it's leaking in that area but if it isn't then I'm not going to replace it. I suspect the fluid in the area of the oetiker clamp is coming from the leak around the pump. Can't imagine a leak around the oetiker clamp would cause fluid to show up around the pump. But it could obviously be leaking in both (and maybe even more) areas.

 

That is a good plan. Hopefully someone just got sloppy over the years adding fluid. A good clean up in those areas and a short drive with some full turns should tell you what you need to do if anything.

 

I'm still waiting for the tension bands I ordered to arrive, but I shopped around yesterday. Home depot, Advance Auto, O'Reilly, none of them have these tension bands. Finally found them at Ace hardware. Bought an 11/16" which I believe is narrower than what I ordered online so I was expecting it to be too tight. Picked up some f-type power steering fluid at the dealer, added some fluid to the pump (it was low) and drove about 20 miles. I had cleaned up the area so the oil on the return hose in the following picture must be new. After driving 20 miles:


Removed the existing clamp and then when I tried the 11/16" band it was too wide. Fell over the hose without even spreading the clamp. Drove back to ace to get a smaller band but the next smallest is 5/8" which I was expecting to be too small, but picked up a few anyway. No chance of getting the 5/8" on the hose, it really is too small/narrow.

Then I realized I have brand new constant tension bands for my car (older subaru) which are either used for transmission fluid hoses or to clamp the boot around the tie rod on one end. 15.6mm at rest and 19.8mm when fully spread so that could well work if the hose outer diameter is 18.4mm. And it did seem to work:


Only problem is that the hose seems to have a tear. Not sure if I tore it or whether it was already torn. It's visible on the right side of the hose just below the band. I'm not (yet?) getting a leak from that area but I'm not happy knowing it's torn. I'm first going to see if I have enough slack to shorten the hose, otherwise I'll get a new hose (and oetiker clamp for the other end).

Tensions bands/clamps so far. From left to right; band that was originally on the hose, 11/16", 5/8" and the subaru band:


Thanks

 

power steering return is typically a 3/8 hose, so a 3/8 constant tension clamp would work(presuming the return is indeed 3/8 like most vehicles seem to follow, maybe 5/16 if not 3/8)

Any of those clamps you showed would do an excellent job

earlier i referred to fuel injection clamps. this is one by Kohler, which is sold at autozone and advaced in packets of.. 4? I think, for 3/8 size. what you have appears to be fine for the application. Constant tension clamps can usually be found in hardware stores, certain non pressure plumbing and air applications use them but the ones from menards, in my experience, suck and dont work well. Harbor freight ones are a joke, too. The bulk pack at least. THere definitely is quality and not

 

ALSO that tear you refer to is probably the outer lining of the hose where the old clamp dug in over time. If you are worried, take off the hose, cut off at the tear, and reclamp. I dont think its an issue if its not leaking, the return isnt seeing high pressures. if the hose moves while turning wheel, it may pivot at that tear and eventually wear but that would only be if its articulating on that tear.

 

Thanks for the feedback @AuroraGirl. Sort of feel like the job's not finished with that hose tear, even if it's not leaking. I'm leaning towards replacing or shortening the hose. I ordered some Oetiker clamps (which also seem to be called PEX Cinch Clamps) to be ready if I choose to replace. I'll pick up some hose at an auto store. The hose should indeed be 3/8", but I believe that's the inner diameter. The outer diameter should be more like 5/8" (0.625") and the hose that's on there now is around 0.72". Not sure which oetiker clamp size to order so I'm getting a pack of clamps with different sizes.

 

hose and clamps are usually sold on their ID with a presumed consistent outer diameter in the same category of hose. Basically if its a 3/8 trans cooler(ps) hose, a 3/8 hose clamp should adequately work on it. its weird, yes. I am kinda like you, the common way its done doesnt logically sit that well in the head, but its just how it is evidently. the metric numbers wont get you far except for personal reference lol. I would snip the hose if you have the lenght. If you replace the hose, just cut the crimp on the end, slide off the hose, flare the remaining hard line, then push on new trans cooler(ps) hose, use two clamps of your choice(avoiding the worm gear if you can) and you should be good. If you do this, I do recommend a Ps filter because the magnefine filter can help keep the pump and gear healthy and if you plumb new line, you can place the filter anywhere. I would personally do a smalll cooler too, esp if you have large tires or 4x4, but its not necessary. Coolers extend pump life and fluid service life .

 

Do what you want but there is no need for all that. Loosen the clamp and remove the hose from the pump. Remove the clamp and hose from the steel return line. Install a new piece of bulk hose with two new clamps and your done. The factory return line loops around the front of the crossmember instead of
going direct back to the pump to act as a cooler. Because I know how finicky Ford P/S pumps are, I periodically change the fluid in the power steering system to flush out any debris and keep the fluid fresh. A couple quarts of Type F is only about $10.

 

oh, both ends are clamps?

My bad I thought one end was a crimped connection like gm loves to do. If its a clamp then yes that works

 

It's 4x4 with stock tire size (235/75/15).

I think I have everything I need to replace the PS return hose. I'm still waiting for the constant tension bands I ordered but they're going to be too big with the new hose I got.

The old hose currently installed has an outer diameter of 18.4mm. This new Gates hose has an outer diameter of 15.5mm and inner diameter of 9.5mm. I'm guessing the old hose will have the same inner diameter. So even the constant tension band I'm currently using at the pump is going to be too big for the new hose. Luckily I picked up some 5/8" constant tension bands at ace, which seem to be close to a perfect fit for this new gates hose.

I took some more pictures of the hose to pipe connection. Could be leaking there too. What I did suddenly notice is that the radiator hose seems to be leaking and the fluid in that area could be coolant, but I have noticed fresh reddish oil/fluid in that area around the cross member previously so there's definitely ps fluid in that area around the cross member.

Radiator hose seems to be ok. I tightened the clamp a bit. Easily turned the screw almost a full turn. I realize the torque on these clamps is very low but it seemed too loose. Not even sure the fluid on the radiator hose is coolant (which should be green) but I can't immediately explain the spill pattern coming from any of the PS hoses. I've also been losing coolant and topping off coolant in the reservoir. This could be a promising explanation for that.

Long labor day weekend ahead so I'll be replacing the PS return hose and seeing if I can fix the coolant leak.

 

Not that some metric sizes don’t correspond pretty close to standard sizes for example 13mm to 1/2” but the hoses and clamps on your ‘88 should be standard and not metric.

 

Good point. I'm measuring metric because I can sort of fathom the difference between 15.5mm vs 15.4mm, but can't get a grasp on the equivalent difference in standard between 0.610" and 0.606", and I don't even want to try to convert the decimal fractions on my caliper to a rational x/y.

I'm glad you pointed this out because I come across youtube videos where they're working on a Ford and saying "use a 10mm socket for this" and "use a 14mm wrench for that", and I'm wondering "is Ford following the metric system?". It's probably just whatever the youtuber has in their tool chest and is close to the standard equivalent.

 

Why are you trying to convert the fraction to a decimal? For what purpose? You go to the store to by a foot of 3/8” hose or whatever length / size you need.