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My 49 with original Flathead runs great when it is cold outside, but when it is hot like it is now it will start hesitating and losing power. Any ideas? I’m thinking motor getting to hot, or timing is a little off.
Check to see which hole you are in with the accelerator linkage. There are three holes on the throttle shaft, one for cold weather, one for hot, and one for all around.
Check to see which hole you are in with the accelerator linkage. There are three holes on the throttle shaft, one for cold weather, one for hot, and one for all around.
JB
I’ll check when I get back from dropping my daughter off at school
Check to see which hole you are in with the accelerator linkage. There are three holes on the throttle shaft, one for cold weather, one for hot, and one for all around.
I think the carb linkage 3twinbridges is talking about is the accelerator pump. The pump shot volume can be bigger or smaller depending on the hole that the link arm is fitted to. I think on your carb, the plunger, the link and the 3 hole adjustment is visible just above your throttle linkage and return spring in the 2nd photo. You could try different settings, but I don't think that's your issue. All the accelerator pump is designed to do is to overcome the initial lean flat spot when the throttle is opened from idle. Sounds more ignition related to me. I hate throwing parts at these problems, but coils are a known failure point when they get hot. You could try a new or spare coil if you have one.
I tried to markup your picture to show you the 3 holes and accelerator pump linkage.
The piece I colored blue is the linkage, and it’s not in the correct location. I circled the 3 holes in green. Left to right, left is minimum accelerator pump, middle is a bit more, right is max. It seems yours is not in any of the holes. I’d start in the right since it’s warm out.
okay I checked on a new coil $22.50, but it says use with external resistor. Any idea why external resistor? Also a new condenser is $6.
A coil comes one of two ways. Externally resisted or internally resisted. The purpose is to keep the voltage to the points at a reasonable level so the points don't burn up.
The coil you're looking at is externally resisted. You can work around that by mounting a ceramic resistor to the firewall and putting it inline on your ignition to coil wire.
OR find a coil that is internally resisted - the resistor is inside the coil.
Here's a better shot of the holes. I'd bet the linkage that fits into the holes is either bent outwards or missing a clip at the top end. It can jam your throttle open when loose like that!!
It can jam your throttle open when loose like that!!
Yep!! You guys probably remember the wild ride I took to work one morning. Jammed wide open!!! Nothing like using your key switch as an accelerator until you can find a spot wide enough to get it out of the highway. I drove it almost a mile like that.
Yep!! You guys probably remember the wild ride I took to work one morning. Jammed wide open!!! Nothing like using your key switch as an accelerator until you can find a spot wide enough to get it out of the highway. I drove it almost a mile like that.
Wow, sounds like a scary ride. Also sounds like a Le Rhone rotary engine.
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