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So I am aware when breaking in a new flat tapper the rom should be between 2000-2500, due to oil volume needed to keep it well lubricated during its break in process. My question is this, how or, is that rpm requirement affected by a high volume oil pump?
Gotta ask as I keep popping the cork seals on my intake manifold trying to break this sucker in, and I’m a bit tired of having to run it for a few minutes then as it starts to warm up they pop on me. I’m using good fel pro gasket sets, right torque sequence, and as far as I know the right torque value (book states 22-24ftlbs for my 351w).
I don't know, I never used them!
I use a bead of RTV Silicone.
Pull it and do it over so you can get rid of all the oil.
Might seem like to much work but you can get it right .
Is it just a new cam or new motor, pistons & rings?
The only reason I can see them blowing out is too much blow by and the gap between block & intake too much.
I also use RTV and no end gaskets.
Dave. ----
Original block but it’s been rebuilt, only original internal are the piston connecting rods, the corks not getting sucked in or blown out, the oil is being forced out between the rtv that’s mating it on either side of the cork.
Incorrect crankcase pressure would either blow out or suck in the weakest gasket first. Do you have proper PCV?
Yes, I’ve got a proper pcv on it. It’s been blowing oil out both front and rear. Granted I’ve been using the high torque grey rtv (and letting it cure for 24hrs or more before starting it up again) instead of the black before it was rebuilt when I swapped the new intake on it I used the red high temp and had no issue with the fel-pro cork gaskets, I’m picking up a set of the MAHLE intake gaskets to use and I’ll grab a tube of the black rtv while I’m there.
Original block but it’s been rebuilt, only original internal are the piston connecting rods, the corks not getting sucked in or blown out, the oil is being forced out between the rtv that’s mating it on either side of the cork.
Originally Posted by Theomain
Yes, I’ve got a proper pcv on it. It’s been blowing oil out both front and rear. Granted I’ve been using the high torque grey rtv (and letting it cure for 24hrs or more before starting it up again) instead of the black before it was rebuilt when I swapped the new intake on it I used the red high temp and had no issue with the fel-pro cork gaskets, I’m picking up a set of the MAHLE intake gaskets to use and I’ll grab a tube of the black rtv while I’m there.
HOLD THE BOAT!!!!
Are you saying you are using RTV on 1 side or both of the cork gaskets?
If so that is it right there! If you use anything, and you should not, I would use something like Gasket Shallac https://www.google.com/search?q=gask...client=gws-wiz
Or no cork and just the RTV. Clean the mating areas with brake clean and run a thick 1/4" bead of RTV on the motor side and let it skim over befor installing the intake.
Guys with rubber end gaskets throw them away and run the bead of RTV like above.
If you want to use the cork or rubber gaskets the only place the RTV should be run is in the corners where the heads & block meet.
Same goes for the oil pan, in the corners where block & rear main & the timing cover meet.
Dave ----
Let the RTV set up before you drop the manifold on it. After 15 or 20 minutes set up time, set the manifold in place, install the bolts and begin to tighten them slowly. Stop for a while, let the RTV cure some, then torque the bolts the next day...
Saw that tip on one of the car shows on TV. That guy Lucky was talking about it. Sorry, I can't think of the show...But he does have a nice old Chevelle.
So general consensus is:
1. Toss the cork
2. Use straight black rtv in place of cork(after cleaning with brake cleaner/rubbing alcohol)
3. High volume oil pump does not affect rpm needed to liberally lubricant the cam during break-in
To clarify using the straight rtv method
apply the rtv,
then set the manifold,
then lightly tighten the bolts,
allow rtv to cure,
then torque bolts to spec.
So general consensus is:
1. Toss the cork
2. Use straight black rtv in place of cork(after cleaning with brake cleaner/rubbing alcohol)
3. High volume oil pump does not affect rpm needed to liberally lubricant the cam during break-in
To clarify using the straight rtv method
apply the rtv,
then set the manifold,
then lightly tighten the bolts,
allow rtv to cure,
then torque bolts to spec.
just to make sure I understand clearly.
Yep thats it..
I like to have the RTV skim a little before I install the manifold but that's on a non Ford motor..
Dave. ----
So I am aware when breaking in a new flat tapper the rom should be between 2000-2500, due to oil volume needed to keep it well lubricated during its break in process. My question is this, how or, is that rpm requirement affected by a high volume oil pump?
Gotta ask as I keep popping the cork seals on my intake manifold trying to break this sucker in, and I’m a bit tired of having to run it for a few minutes then as it starts to warm up they pop on me. I’m using good fel pro gasket sets, right torque sequence, and as far as I know the right torque value (book states 22-24ftlbs for my 351w).
The rpm is not just for oil splash for the cam, its also to help promote the lifters to spin and not stay stationary as they wear into the cam. With a roller lifter you could start up and idle and not hold the rpm up which is why many people get away from flat tappets as many aftermarket cams have inferior cores that wipe out lobes easily.
HOLD THE BOAT!!!!
Are you saying you are using RTV on 1 side or both of the cork gaskets?
If so that is it right there! If you use anything, and you should not, I would use something like Gasket Shallac https://www.google.com/search?q=gask...client=gws-wiz
Or no cork and just the RTV. Clean the mating areas with brake clean and run a thick 1/4" bead of RTV on the motor side and let it skim over befor installing the intake.
Guys with rubber end gaskets throw them away and run the bead of RTV like above.
If you want to use the cork or rubber gaskets the only place the RTV should be run is in the corners where the heads & block meet.
Same goes for the oil pan, in the corners where block & rear main & the timing cover meet.
Dave ----
Yep, realistically should just toss the cork dog legs on the intake gasket and dimple the block surface and run a bead of ultra black and sit the intake down with the bolts finger tight and let cure 24 hours then torque to spec.
I do that for all my engines as those cork gaskets if they dont leak at first will eventually leak unlike the ultra black.
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