Hello All,

I have a 2020 F250 XLT with SYNC 3.4.
The clock keeps changing to 24 Time.
I de-select the 24 HR button in the Clock Setup screen, but on vehicle restart it is re-enabled.
I have just installed the latest SNYC 3 update but it still insists on reverting to 24 Hour Time.
Using the GPS setting has no effect.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thank You

Michael

 

My 17 was doing that when the batteries were going bad, I wouldn’t think yours would be going bad yet.

 

How do I get mine to show 24 hour time? I prefer it to 12 hour.

 

Go into settings and tap the clock button.
Once there. you can select 12 or 24

 

Have you tried a Master Reset of the SYNC 3 system?
Do you know how to do that?

Doing this will usually clear up weird problems such as the one you mentioned.

Also, don't use GPS time because it can sometimes throw the time off by an hour behind.
I`m not sure if this happens to many but it happens to me.

 

Looks like somebody's gonna be joining the military.

 

Not really, but maybe. I keep mine on Universal Time because I deal with folks from all over the world and when I say 1400 they understand what time I am talking about. Most every where in the world uses it except us.

Now I am Retired Navy and knew it long before I went in in 1978, because my dad used it also. All my kids and grandkids use it also when they talk to me or just want to mess up their friends.

 

Hello All,

Thanks to GABAR for suggesting the MASTER RESET.
That fixed the issue.

Best Regards

Michael

 

Well the problem is back and worse!
Getting a lot of Fault Codes, Collision Warning Fault, Front Camera Fault, Powertrain Malfunction etc.
Engine would crank a little bit, then stop.
Did this several times and then would start.

If I drive the truck and don't let it sit too long, it starts OK and no Fault Codes and clock doesn't go to 24 hour mode.
If it sits a couple of days then the problems re-occur.

Thinking I have a battery problem.
This is my first diesel and first dual battery setup.

I am taking the truck to the dealer next week to get checked out under warranty, but I ordered a battery load tester, should get that tomorrow.
I like to know the solution BEFORE I take it to the dealer!

Hopefully it is a failing battery.

Wish me luck!

 

Sorry to hear that you’re still having the same problem as well as more issues.

Glad to hear you’re still under warranty so hopefully your dealer can get everything sorted out quickly.

 

I received my battery tester, BT100 from Amazon, and determined that the passenger side battery is toast.
It was reading 10.5 volts after an overnight charge, my charger indicated a BAD battery also.
Less than a year old and only 5667 miles.

It's funny, the little green dot on the bad battery looks the same as the little green dot on the good battery.

The battery in my 2011 F250 lasted 6 years but suffered from corrosion, the replacement Motorcraft battery was doing good when I traded the 2011 for my 2020 F250 Diesel.
Going to replace both batteries with X2Power Premium AGM batteries.

Hopefully this will solve the issues.

 

The problem with the battery when one purchases a new vehicle is that who knows how long the battery or batteries have been sitting on the shelf before being installed in a vehicle and who knows how long said vehicle was sitting on a lot before and after transit to a dealer.

I’m not sure if you saw another posting on here about members taking advantage of the Odyssey battery sale that’s going on so you might want to look into that before making your purchase of the X2 batteries.

I hope the new batteries will solve the issues you’re having.

 

Gremlins in the modules.

 

I replaced both Motorcraft batteries with X2Power Premium AGM batteries and the 24HR Clock issue and the starting issue and the random fault codes issue are resolved!
I was trying to find some Odyssey Extreme AGM batteries but NAPA, at least in eastern PA, no longer carry the Odyssey Extreme batteries, they carry a DEKA instead.
The only place that I could get the Odyssey Extreme on Monday was Batteries+Bulbs but they were $100 more each than the X2Power Premium ones, i didn't feel like waiting around for a delivery.
Oh well.

The one fault code that is still occurring is the Pre-Collision/Front Camera not available.
I had it to the dealer this morning and they determined that it was the Image Processing Module that had failed.
I wonder if the failed battery pulling down the voltage could have "spiked" the IPM?
Usually automotive electronics are fairly robust, but you never know.

Anyway the part is on order, no telling how long it will take to get with the "chip" shortage.

 

Glad you got everything figured out. Seems like lots of strange things happen when the batteries go bad.

I’ll have to check out these Odyssey batteries that everyone keeps raving about. Are they really that awesome??