I'm not towing anything yet... but I have the 3.31s with the ELocker. I'm actually having trouble finding accurate info on my towing capacity. I've heard 20k. Mine came with the High Capacity towing add on or whatever, so I don't know how much that adjusted the 20k number I heard.

Do you, or anyone else have good numbers?

And also - this might be a silly question, but does the cargo on my truck reduce my trailer towing capacity, or can you always keep those numbers separate and within their respective limits?

 

Side note - I would actually like to start putting this pony to work. Maybe even get my CDL and haul some small stuff lol.

 

I encourage you to read the manual. It's huge, but there is tons of good stuff in there. Everything you're asking about here is covered in the manual. I'm not chastising you or in any way telling you to not ask questions. Rather, ask away and read the manual. There are features of your truck that aren't covered (or aren't covered very well) in the manual, so I'm really not telling you to not ask questions. But, the manual is a good place to start ... and there are electronic versions online, if you're ever in a pinch.

This is a page from my manual with only the 6R140, so yours will read a bit differently. But, it will still have this description in it:

 

See the towing guide here> https://www.fleet.ford.com/content/d...owingGuide.pdf

And, yes, cargo reduces the towing capacity.

But, for myself, and some others, it is just the axle/tire capacity ratings that we concern ourselves with, not the tow/cargo ratings from the manufacturers.

 

I appreciate the input! I definitely want to get around to reading the manual when I can. It's just tough to find the time to sit down and do it. I've glanced at it a few times, but I find it easier to search for, or find the answer from you knowledgeable mother effers =D

 

Also, tell us exactly what truck you have.
I understand since you have the high capacity trailer tow package that it is a F250, but give us the rest of the details.
Make yourself a signature on here and put your truck info there.

 

I'll do the signature right now!

I just picked up a 2021 F250 Lariat 6.7 with 3.31 eLocker.

Is there any other info I should list?

 

Boop! Fancy new signature.

 

Max towing capacity with the HCTT is kind of an odd thing on the 250... but when equipped with the HCTT, yes, the max towing capacity on a F250 is 20K, but it depends on the build... 4X4 or 4X2, regular cab, super cab or crew cab, short bed or long bed... best just to check out this link and use the conventional towing (or 5th wheel) chart to find your build.

As far as cargo weight and towing weight... yes, cargo weight will take away from your towing rate, in a round about way. Example, if you have a 2000 lb payload. This means, all weight put in or on the truck cannot (legally?) exceed that 2000 lbs. That sounds like a lot, but figure five 150 lb passengers and you're already down 750 lbs. Throw in random extra stuff and tools and bam, there's another 100 lbs gone... then, for camping say, throw in a generator, some camping chairs, a dump tank, an outdoor clam tent and whatever else, and there goes another 500 lbs... now, that 2000 lb payload has been reduced to only 650 lbs! That's fine if your camper is small like mine and only has abut a 600ish lb tongue weight, but if its a bigger camper, that tongue weight could be 1000 lbs or more... So, in a way, yes, cargo weight does reduce your trucks towing capacity because the more cargo you have, the less amount of tongue or pin weight you can put on the truck, which means lighter trailers... Hope all that makes sense...

 

Not enough...
I see crew cab and looks like a short bed, what trim level, 4x4 or 2wd?
All makes a difference in cargo and towing capacities.

 

Short answer:
Locking out gears prevents automatic upshifts into those gears.
Manual mode keeps truck in a selected gear and won't automatically downshift, even if floored or lugged. Act's like a manual while under power.

 

The driver is 10X smarter than the computer......well, unless you're not.
I go straight to manual in the hills.

 

You probably want to re-think this plan unless you are going to try and make a living out of it. Getting a CDL these days means you must attend an accredited school which can run $6-10k. Then you have to register your truck with the DOT, carry safety equipment, do daily inspection logs, carry commercial insurance if they will sell it to you as a new CDL driver maintain a health card sign up for random drug testing etc etc. It has gotten pretty crazy. 20 years ago I taught myself, tested and passed because I owned a company with class 8 trucks. Definitely not so simple anymore. I let my CDL go a few years ago because just maintaining it for occasional use wasn't worth it.

 

I might not be =D

 

Dream killer.... =P
Fine... casual hauling in a beautiful truck it is!