At times I miss my Ram. EB worked down to idle (or was it 1000rpm?), and the high idle w/ EB engaged warmed it up quick in the winter.

 

yes……1000 RPM is the shut off on my Ram. EB is strong at lower RPM’s also. But Ford’s shift strategy is way ahead of RAM when manually downshifting. A lot less time between shifts when the EB is dis-engaged to make to shift. It is not a huge issue until someone right in front is dancing on their brake pedal.

 

Mine was a manual, so I had a much better shift strategy than any computer...and better use of the EB as I had no torque converter to go through ("locked up" converter or not, the manual trucks always had a stronger EB vs. the automatics).

Actually, now that I think about it, mine did work down to idle because it was a manual. Auto's cut off at 1000rpm

 

Yeah, that will make a difference!

 

Thanks to all who took the time to respond. I guess there is some differences of opinions on the naming of the Mode. Aside from the debate on what Ford chose to call the mode, everyone knew what the core of the subject was and as a suspected, my truck is working properly.

porthole- I had not thought to use the second 7-way connector port in the bed of my truck as a test point. – Thx

I think the secondary concern I had was lost in the debate; the potentially hazardous condition resulting from the engine brake engaging while towing a heavy load. I have not towed using my gooseneck setup yet, so I cannot speak to that configuration. Having the tongue weight place directly over the rear axle may have a different effect. In a typical “bumper” pull trailer the lateral moment is several feet to the rear of the rear axle. I generally tow with the recommended tongue weight of 10% to 15%. If the way I loaded the trailer and the tongue weight is not more than the 10%, I use sand bags to get the tongue weight I want. Yes, I do use a trailer tongue scale.

Anyone who’s spun out on black ice or just a slick road surface just by coming off the accelerator pedal knows that that sudden change of motion and loading can be an eye opener. So let’s consider this scenario, towing a 10k pound trailer, downhill grade, on a curve. The truck’s pull is forcing the trailer stay on the same track, but trailer is going to want to keep going straight (path of least resistance). Manually applying the truck brakes engages the trailer brakes stopping the trailer from “pushing” the truck. – (I was taught that the trailer should create a slight dragging effect on the towing vehicle). Throw in a slick road surface- you still have good braking force from both the truck and trailer. Now let’s add in the engine brake. No longer do you have the trailer braking systems help. Only the truck is trying to dissipate the forward movement and the trailer is pushing against the truck. This creates the potential of the trailer pushing the truck’s rear to the outside of the curve and a spin out. Yes, all the stars and planets need to be in alignment for this perfect storm and this hazardous condition. Myself, being new to engine braking and I am sure there are others in our FTE community who are also new to it, this is something to be aware of before you are in this situation. Obviously a long straight downhill grade would not be an issue. Curvy mountain downhill grades and the use of the engine brake should be considered very carefully.

 

I use my exhaust brake all the time. I tow 60-70% of the time, mostly in the 6-10k# range. I replaced my front rotors and brake pads at 342,000 miles, and could have probably gone another 20k with them. I attribute a considerable amount of that life to leaving the exhaust brake on (manual.)

I don’t use engine or exhaust braking if traction is even questionable. I want the ABS and related systems to be able to do their job.

 

Yes, you are not supposed to use the EB in slick road conditions. Should be common sense to most, but like you said, there are many "newbies" out there, and no one is born knowing it all!

Of course, one could also read the owners manual:

 

Whoa: You have 342,000 miles on the 2017 in your signature?

 

I think there are several posts that addressed the hazardous condition you brought up and they said to use a combination of engine brake and manual braking. There is no requirement to use the engine brake. Personally, I have found it works extremely well and I have been very pleased. I also really like the speed hold ability while going down descents. That being said, I am never reliant on the system completely and will always use the foot pedal as required/desired.

 

Once we throw in the icy roads, mountain grades and curves into the mix it is real easy to get to the “TOO FAST FOR CONDITIONS” mode. Especially when towing.
So then that makes everything a whole different ball game. No one is born knowing exasctly what to do, but as the old cowboy said.
”Experience is what you get right after you need it the most”
But no, you definitely do not want your trailer pushing you around when traction is gone; but you also do not want the trailer brakes locking up and throwing the trailer into a skid either. Slow n easy is always best in those conditions.
Good luck and I truly hope you don’t learn what NOT to do.

 

you have touched on it
in AUTO it works with cruise to "maintain" selected road speed. if you have adaptive cruise, it will engage the service brakes if computer cannot control speed using engine brake/exhaust brake. Or so i was told by my service tech, and we read here that is most likely the case, but only if adaptive cruise detects your to close to the vehicle in front of you.
with normal cruise i have found that by watching the trailer menu to see if brakes are activated by the auto setting ...not so far in my case, but my load was light.
it would be an interesting test to see if in auto, with normal cruise if it does actuate trailer brakes to assist engine brake in doing its job.

in my motor home, the exhaust brake engages the brake lights on trailer and motor home, but does not engage trailer brakes unless i manually actuate them with the brake controller.
you would think the folks writing the books would be a bit more forthcoming in "operation" of system that could and can save brake wear and or make driving with heavy trailers and loads a bit easier and maybe safer

in my motorhome i use the exhaust brake religiously , it stays on everywhere but on the highway unless i am exiting. i f see a hard braking coming up from traffic i will select it with a simple reach of my left hand.

 

Actually, 388k now.

This is a more recent picture. I took this shot about a month ago. (I looked out my living room window one morning, and there she was - posing! Lol)

 

Lewis, I love that White Gold color!

 

Yes! I’ve been very pleased with it, too.

 

Interesting thread to me here.While I wasn't aware of the 'two push' manual/auto on the "exhaust brake",I am happy to report that I finally had my first real world experience with the feature.I had tried it a little,just to see what it does,but now having just returned from a 1400 mi. round trip to Washougal,Wa.,through OR,ID and back to Nevada pulling my new toy hauler-at at roughly 10.5k-I have to say I LOVE it and am impressed.With tow/haul on,EB in (apparently)manual,and using my Raptor paddle shifters on the wheel,she pulled-AND SLOWED- like a champ.Up,down passes,windy,calm,passing you name it.Was a nice test of what these rigs will really do.I know many here are already aware of their potential-which is why I bought mine-but it definitely proved itself this trip.As well,thanks to many here who enlightened me-through posting-on how to really use this truck.....and safely.Props.