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Stuck throttle body

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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 06:28 PM
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Stuck throttle body

Is it possible the springs on my throttle body sprung? The throttle was sticking in traffic. If I pulled the throttle cable off and turned it open by hand it would just stay open. I soaked it down with pb blaster in a parking lot and was able to drive home normally. 92 5.8 incase my signature does not show

 
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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 08:05 PM
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Just glancing at it, nothing looks out of order, as far as the spring are concerned. Anything is possible, I suppose.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2021 | 01:45 AM
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What is the condition of the throttle cable? It is common for them to get brittle at the mount beside the throttle body. When this happens the cable can't move freely.

Remove the intake tubes and see if the inside of the throttle body is really dirty, That could cause it to stick as well.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2021 | 10:34 AM
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The cable does not have 20K on it, the old one broken as described. The new one is lacking any silicone or lithium grease under Neath the spring there. The throttle body is most likely dirty because I have a lot of blow by, but I had cleaned it toughly at about the same time I installed the new cable after getting the truck. Even after using the penetrating fluid on the top of the throttle body the return to close was extremely weak without the cable attached. The accelerator pedal was also extremely stiff feeling before my roadside repair. Truck sat for maybe 3 weeks since getting the 21.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2021 | 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by CamoF-250
The cable does not have 20K on it, the old one broken as described. The new one is lacking any silicone or lithium grease under Neath the spring there. The throttle body is most likely dirty because I have a lot of blow by, but I had cleaned it toughly at about the same time I installed the new cable after getting the truck. Even after using the penetrating fluid on the top of the throttle body the return to close was extremely weak without the cable attached. The accelerator pedal was also extremely stiff feeling before my roadside repair. Truck sat for maybe 3 weeks since getting the 21.
You made big mistakes shooting sfuff on the throttle body. The inside shouldn’t be cleaned unless severely necessary because it has a special coating that seals and keeps from gumming up

also you sprayed PENETRATING fluid on the bushings for the throttle butterfly’s? Why????
what are you removing?

you probably swollen something up or broke down whatever they used to coat them to ride free and smooth.

the springs aren’t strong but they don’t have to be that strong.
Your cable should not be lubed either

can you show us a pic with the flash on the outside springs abd the inside butterfly?

Did you touch the idle stop screw?
 
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Old Jul 15, 2021 | 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by CamoF-250
Is it possible the springs on my throttle body sprung? The throttle was sticking in traffic. If I pulled the throttle cable off and turned it open by hand it would just stay open. I soaked it down with pb blaster in a parking lot and was able to drive home normally. 92 5.8 incase my signature does not show

are those brackets bent? I can’t tell very well but they look like they are kinked downward toward it by the cables and there right hand side looks weird. Is your throttle plate/shaft bent?
juT doesn’t look normal but I don’t own a v8 Ford so I’m not sure


is there something missing on that spring hook on the background or is it useless like my 4.9
 
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Old Jul 15, 2021 | 01:21 PM
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Nothing is bend. Only applied PB blaster to to the top springs and bushing there on the outside. Only throttle body cleaner has ever been applied inside, and I have not pulled this off to clean or inspect it yet. No the brackets are not bent or skewed to my knowledge. Have never touched the idle screw, not an idling issue except not returning to idle. I will probably get it off and clean it next week. I don't think anything goes on that hook, could be the issue, but I am thinking that is from where the linkage was used a few different throttle body assemblies because there's no wear on it.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2021 | 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by CamoF-250
Nothing is bend. Only applied PB blaster to to the top springs and bushing there on the outside. Only throttle body cleaner has ever been applied inside, and I have not pulled this off to clean or inspect it yet. No the brackets are not bent or skewed to my knowledge. Have never touched the idle screw, not an idling issue except not returning to idle. I will probably get it off and clean it next week. I don't think anything goes on that hook, could be the issue, but I am thinking that is from where the linkage was used a few different throttle body assemblies because there's no wear on it.
I repeat why would you use penetrating fluid on the outside you aren’t trying to remove them

Also what I said about the inside still stands
 
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Old Jul 15, 2021 | 02:08 PM
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any lubricant to get it opening and closing when I'm stuck in a parking lot after shutting the truck off with the throttle wide open
 
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Old Jul 15, 2021 | 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by CamoF-250
any lubricant to get it opening and closing when I'm stuck in a parking lot after shutting the truck off with the throttle wide open
I agee on this. What ever it takes to get going again. If your throttle body TB has heavy carbon your blades can stick. 20K miles is enough to carbon them up again especially with running issues. When you take it off to check it, make sure to replace your gasket. When you get it off and cleaned ,move the spring loaded section by hand and see if the spring feels weak. If so I can't see why you couldn't add an extra wrap on the spring, but I have never heard of anyone doing that or even needing to.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2021 | 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by sandymane
I agee on this. What ever it takes to get going again. If your throttle body TB has heavy carbon your blades can stick. 20K miles is enough to carbon them up again especially with running issues. When you take it off to check it, make sure to replace your gasket. When you get it off and cleaned ,move the spring loaded section by hand and see if the spring feels weak. If so I can't see why you couldn't add an extra wrap on the spring, but I have never heard of anyone doing that or even needing to.
I don’t know what the bushings are made of but if the penetrating fluid could swell or dry up the bushings I could see it all being a lost cause. But it’s hard to know how it interacts. I would try and see if there is okay or slop on the bushings. Is the tp sensor ok? Adjusted properly? Maybe it’s not seated fully and it’s causing weird sticking I wouldn’t doubt it

but yes on carbon that could develop over 20k with issues easy. My iac was dirty and I didn’t have any issues.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2021 | 05:59 PM
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Ive cleaned up several throttle bodies on various trucks, mostly GM - same difference, a pair of butterfly valves in an aluminum housing. they get gummed up over time. Lubed the shafts etc. What ever works. Lots of penetrating oils are also lubricating oils. Everyone has a favourite, I prefer Aerokroil. HHS2000 is also another favourite that creeps into tight spots and the solvents evaporate leaving an stp like thick slippery oil lubricant behind.

The issue I’ve run into is they stick when trying to open, and take a little force on the throttle to get it to open, then rev right up / truck lurches when the valves do let go and open.

I don’t remember ever having to disassemble them. Maybe I did to clean the shaft, but I don’t remember. I think I just held the butler fly valve open, and used some scotchbrite and lacquer thinner to clean them out, and lubed the shafts the best I could with something that will creep - penetrating oil, and carried on.

I keep those springs oiled up too, as well as a little penetrating oil on the throttle cables with hopes that it creeps up into the sleeves.

 
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Old Jul 15, 2021 | 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by JJF20
Ive cleaned up several throttle bodies on various trucks, mostly GM - same difference, a pair of butterfly valves in an aluminum housing. they get gummed up over time. Lubed the shafts etc. What ever works. Lots of penetrating oils are also lubricating oils. Everyone has a favourite, I prefer Aerokroil. HHS2000 is also another favourite that creeps into tight spots and the solvents evaporate leaving an stp like thick slippery oil lubricant behind.

The issue I’ve run into is they stick when trying to open, and take a little force on the throttle to get it to open, then rev right up / truck lurches when the valves do let go and open.

I don’t remember ever having to disassemble them. Maybe I did to clean the shaft, but I don’t remember. I think I just held the butler fly valve open, and used some scotchbrite and lacquer thinner to clean them out, and lubed the shafts the best I could with something that will creep - penetrating oil, and carried on.

I keep those springs oiled up too, as well as a little penetrating oil on the throttle cables with hopes that it creeps up into the sleeves.
at least I’m my 96 manual Ford is very clear DONT DO IT to the cleaning to the lubricating to the cable etc so I mean if it’s different in his year I’ll concede but those plastic sheaths with metal cable really aren’t meant to be toyed with.. the wrong chemical will ruin what coatings it does have to be low friction and lubricated and otherwise may just ruin the plastics which hold it onto the throttle.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2021 | 06:50 PM
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I’m talking about cleaning up the throttle body and butterfly valves… If it’s gummed up, needs cleaning, and needs lube… ???

If the throttle cable is worn out, rusted, broken strands catching… etc etc, then replace it. But, If it can be lubed and working again, great… sheathing wears out, dries out, gums up too…

It sounds like it’s a relatively new cable, and just the valves stick. So…


To the OP,

I just went and looked at one. It doesn’t look that bad of a job to me. Looks like 4 bolts and the TB is off. Clean it up best you can and carry on. The valves them selves are screwed on to the shaft, remove them too if you want, and carry on. I’m sure if you look it up in the manual there’s probably a section covering servicing the tb. It’s pretty straight forward though.

Anyway. That’s what I’d do, and what I’ve done. Worked for me in the past. Now that I’m looking at it, I think I have removed the valves and shafts, on GM anyway, and cleaned them too. You might want to reference a manual first if your not familiar / comfortable with it. I’d probably use a little locktite too reassembling the valves to the shaft.

Here’s a few pics for the OP.







 
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Old Jul 16, 2021 | 08:30 AM
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Been cleaning throttle bodies on my vehicles for years intermediately, but never because one was sticking. Just wanted opinions of if might be normal for one to stick if dirty or if I should be looking elsewhere like at the springs or for a salvaged replacement. I'll post a shot if a cool day comes around next week and I get to it. As far as the TPS sensor, I replaced it years ago before knowing about any setting, but it seemed like I hand to wind it into position and it has never been an issue. I have gotten paranoid from these forums before and collected several spare TPSs with the pig tails to attempt to make a reader as described sometimes, but I can never put my hands on the TPSs when I come across a forgotten thread about it. Plus removing the throttle body to get at the sensor when "it ain't broke" was usually a no go for being without a truck. Next spring I have a todo list to get on for the old girl of items I put off or stuck back together as good enough.
 
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