WD-Sway Control Hitch Recommendations
#1
WD-Sway Control Hitch Recommendations
I am looking at a TT with a max wt of 9995 lbs, dry tongue wt listed at 965 lbs. I want some contingency so am looking at a weight distribution - sway control hitch rated around 12,000/1,200 lbs. Will pull with a 4wd F-350 with ample capacity. Most concerned about sway.
Interested in your recommendations for a hitch for this set up, based on your experience, as well as what to stay away from. Looking to spend under $1K. Thanks
Interested in your recommendations for a hitch for this set up, based on your experience, as well as what to stay away from. Looking to spend under $1K. Thanks
#2
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#4
#5
To more fully cover various trip loadings I typically recommend sizing the WD system based on 15% of the GVWR for the tongue weight, so for that TT I would spec the WS system to handle 1500lbs of tongue weight. Our 12K TT runs with a tongue weight just a hair over that 15% figure. I would also strongly recommend a WD system with built-in sway control vs any sort of add-on friction anti-sway devices.
Lots of systems available to choose from out there, I got lucky and found a good used Hensley Arrow for only $650, have since logged over 45K miles on it, and still love how good it is.
Lots of systems available to choose from out there, I got lucky and found a good used Hensley Arrow for only $650, have since logged over 45K miles on it, and still love how good it is.
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#8
I’ve had two different WD/SC hitches. The first was an Equalizer brand and the other was a Blue Ox SwayPro:
The Equalizer was far better for me. It uses two tension arms that you can either put in place easily when jacked up or manually with a lever if the jack has been stowed. It was a little noisy but they make pads for the L brackets that help a lot. The only downside is you can’t upgrade or downgrade the capacity by changing arms. If you want to go up or down you have to buy new.
I got away from TT’s because of the Blue Ox. It uses chains for tensioning the arms and that thing was just a real PITA. Maybe I didn’t read the directions enough or something else, but I thought I was going to ruin my shoulder with that. The only upside is the arms could be swapped for smaller/bigger as needed.
If return to TT’s, it would either be another Equalizer or a ProPride or Arrow. Never used the ProPride but have never read a bad thing except for the cost.
The Equalizer was far better for me. It uses two tension arms that you can either put in place easily when jacked up or manually with a lever if the jack has been stowed. It was a little noisy but they make pads for the L brackets that help a lot. The only downside is you can’t upgrade or downgrade the capacity by changing arms. If you want to go up or down you have to buy new.
I got away from TT’s because of the Blue Ox. It uses chains for tensioning the arms and that thing was just a real PITA. Maybe I didn’t read the directions enough or something else, but I thought I was going to ruin my shoulder with that. The only upside is the arms could be swapped for smaller/bigger as needed.
If return to TT’s, it would either be another Equalizer or a ProPride or Arrow. Never used the ProPride but have never read a bad thing except for the cost.
#9
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Somewhere south of Denver
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#10
I am just starting to tow my new trailer (7,800 lb GVWR) and have an EAZ-LIFT weight distributing hitch with built in sway control. So far so good, but still very early with it. Nice thing is, the WD bars don't hang down with changes. They go over top of the mount and if you raise the tongue up enough they can be put on without using the tool.
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#12
Join Date: Oct 2015
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#13
#14
Been a lot of good suggestion above.
im using the Reese straight line DC and I would recommend it to anyone for any application. It is harder to install and harder to set up, but once it is dialed in, the results are worth the effort. The cams make it nearly impossible for the trailer to turn or sway behind the vehicle, and if there is any movement there are active forces from the cams to push everything back into a straight line. IMO, the only hitches that are better are the propride and Hensley. Those make it physically impossible for the trailer to turn or sway. But with that said, the Reese works so well that I don’t personally see how they can work much better. The PP and Hensley make sway physically impossible. The Reese makes it practically impossible.
So, with all of that in mind, for your application I would look hard at the Andersen. The shank sizes available is a huge benefit for you. The Anderson doesn’t provide as much weight transfer to the front axle; and the sway control is passive instead of active (it’s partially active, but more resistive in nature as it can’t push the trailer back in a straight line). But I think the advantage offered by the Reese are advantages you won’t really need. People who use the Andersen are by and large extremely happy with them.
they both cost about the same so your trade off is that the Andersen is lighter, and easier to set up and hook up. The Reese might be better, but it is much harder to install and set up.
my $0.02
im using the Reese straight line DC and I would recommend it to anyone for any application. It is harder to install and harder to set up, but once it is dialed in, the results are worth the effort. The cams make it nearly impossible for the trailer to turn or sway behind the vehicle, and if there is any movement there are active forces from the cams to push everything back into a straight line. IMO, the only hitches that are better are the propride and Hensley. Those make it physically impossible for the trailer to turn or sway. But with that said, the Reese works so well that I don’t personally see how they can work much better. The PP and Hensley make sway physically impossible. The Reese makes it practically impossible.
So, with all of that in mind, for your application I would look hard at the Andersen. The shank sizes available is a huge benefit for you. The Anderson doesn’t provide as much weight transfer to the front axle; and the sway control is passive instead of active (it’s partially active, but more resistive in nature as it can’t push the trailer back in a straight line). But I think the advantage offered by the Reese are advantages you won’t really need. People who use the Andersen are by and large extremely happy with them.
they both cost about the same so your trade off is that the Andersen is lighter, and easier to set up and hook up. The Reese might be better, but it is much harder to install and set up.
my $0.02
#15
I am a fan of the Equalizer 4 point system. It has performed flawlessly for me for years. Easy to install / setup and when properly matched to your truck / trailer combo is a great alternative to the "Chain" setups. Overall it is a reasonably priced hitch that provides both weight distribution and sway control. As a side benefit, you can back your trailer up without having to remove the bars.