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I’ve got a freshly rebuilt 351w installed in my 85’ f150, new camshaft (comp cams CL35-231-3), with new lifters, matched comp cams rockers pushrods, etc, engine turns, cranks over timing was set from tdc on the number 1 cylinder, new 90’ plugs from Taylor’s, I’m getting spark, getting fuel, plugs are set up in the 351w firing order, but she won’t start, best I’ve gotten has been a backfire once, I’ve read somewhere on here apparently some of the 351w camshafts are set up on the 302 firing order and think that may be the issue, any thoughts ideas, etc?
Do you have the plug wires installed on the cap correctly. They go counter clockwise. I could tell you why I would ask this but it would make me feel stupid.
Hehe well, despite setting the timing at tdc before engine install, and again after install, pulled the distributor again and was about 180’ out from tdc, somehow. But I’ve reset it and turned key, fired right up. Starts trying to set idle on it then break in then off to the muffler shop for an exhaust system! Straight headers are a bit loud. Lmao
Hehe well, despite setting the timing at tdc before engine install, and again after install, pulled the distributor again and was about 180’ out from tdc, somehow. But I’ve reset it and turned key, fired right up. Starts trying to set idle on it then break in then off to the muffler shop for an exhaust system! Straight headers are a bit loud. Lmao
Has the cam already been broken in? If not, don't let it idle! And make sure you're using a high zinc oil in that thing. You probably already know all that, but just in case...
Has the cam already been broken in? If not, don't let it idle! And make sure you're using a high zinc oil in that thing. You probably already know all that, but just in case...
I’m running comp cams break in oil with zddp, when I started posting on it I wasn’t aware about keeping it at/over 2000rpm for breaking in the flat tapper cam, didn’t run but for two 30sec increments, so it shouldn’t have messed the camshaft up. However I was getting was sounds like very light valve tap (hence only two short runs) the location sounds like it might be rockers tapping the baffles on the stock valve covers, so I got and just installed some new taller covers to verify that once the wife is up and about. But here’s a link to a video of the second short run and a pick of the new valve covers!
Well no tap with the new valve covers, but now she backfires at 2000 rpm. So now she’s going to sit until next weekend when I can have a hand double checking the valve lash again. I’ve got a rotator cuff injury or I’d be doing it myself now. Oh the frustration. I’m just ready to be driving my truck again. On the bright side I got the toolbox reorganized and the new rear view mirror up, changed some of the original vacuum lines under the hood and managed to tidy up their routing so it looks less a mess than before. The little things.
When you say the rockers may have been hitting the covers and now need to check adjustment do you have roller rockers and if so guessing they are adjustable.
I am also guessing you may have gone to tight on 1 or 2 and why the popping?
You can try and adjust them when running, back off each one till they make noise and tighten till it just stops and go 1/4 to 1/2 turn and lock them down.
It will be messy as it will spray out all over.
Is the cam broke in yet?
If not then adjusting them like I posted would not be good, need to break in that cam first.
Dave ----
When you say the rockers may have been hitting the covers and now need to check adjustment do you have roller rockers and if so guessing they are adjustable.
I am also guessing you may have gone to tight on 1 or 2 and why the popping?
You can try and adjust them when running, back off each one till they make noise and tighten till it just stops and go 1/4 to 1/2 turn and lock them down.
It will be messy as it will spray out all over.
Is the cam broke in yet?
If not then adjusting them like I posted would not be good, need to break in that cam first.
Dave ----
I want to break it in, but don’t want to catch the vehicle on fire, it’s turning into a slow process to make sure it’s not going to eat any part of itself during the break in. The engine has maybe 2min of run time since it’s been back in the truck, yes it now has adjustable rockers. I am aware they can be adjusted while running and how to do so, (did that on my first truck near ten years ago).
Engine’s a 351w, standard 4”bore, 3.5” stroke, has a new everything but connecting rods. Original lifters seized with the sludge that had been in the engine, eventually caused a valve to stick open and smack the heck out of a piston while most of the other valves were tapping the pistons it looked like as 7out of the 8 were cracked. But she got new oe style dished pistons to go back into her swapped the heads over to some Gt40p heads I found a killer deal on, new oe crankshaft as the original had some wear on the front bearing part of the shaft, comp cams X4250H camshaft, lifters, roller rockers, springs, hardened pushrods, high capacity oil pump, double roller timing chain, and set of headers for it, also has a high rise dual plane intake and a Holley 4160 600cfm 4bbl carb on it, and obviously all new gaskets and bearings installed when it was put back together. I’ve put a lot of love into this thing, don’t want to see it eat itself or turn into a campfire, that’s all.
Ignorant question: why is it bad to break in a cam at low rpms?
The reason is the camshaft lobes and the bottom of the lifters are only splash lubed. They want lots of oil on a new cam and lifters as they wear in initially, the higher rpms throw more oil on the camshaft lobes. That special grease you put on the cam lobes for break in also helps with this.
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