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Have not had Lo, M1 or M2 in a while. I was all excited the other day when I was changing out the resistor and found that a previous replacement pigtail connection had failed. I cleaned up the wires and recrimped and wrapped them. The resistor still looked decent but I went ahead and installed the new one. I swear I had all speeds again when I tried it.
The next drive, I only had high again. Figuring it must be the blower switch I picked up a new one along with a repair pigtail just in case. That would be my after work project today. The pigtail appears to have been replaced and wasn’t all melted or brittle. So I replaced the switch and I still have only high. I checked the power at each speed on the corresponding resistor plug pin and each was hot when they should be.
I don’t think my old resistor was actually bad. It was kinda dirty but the springs were all intact. And the new one didn’t work either. I’m kind of at a loss. Any ideas?
I've been through replacing the interior blower switch and its pig tail lead along with the resistor network and its pig tail lead too, same results simply because I didn't realize the wire colors of replacement pig tails is NOT consistent with the schematic. If this particular van had nothing but high blower speed from the beginning whoever changed those parts incorrectly re-wired them. I'd find a proper year factory schematic for your blower motor circuit and go about reconstructing it all according to that specification.
The blower speed resistor assembly has a thermal fuse type device that opens with excessive heat. In the picture below, it's the little silver "bullet" underneath the coiled wires. It can overheat and blow (open) from lack of air flow or a blower motor overload due to friction or other reasons. I either ohm or jumper across it to test.
I have replaced Both...In my 6 Econolines ..so Far .... at least 2 times each...It is Just a Ford Design that you need to know...Kinda like the E Series Vacuum Diagram and Reality ... regarding the Heater and AC Controls....BUT trust me If you only have 1 speed on the Blower ..It is that resisstor..Other than that it is Motor...3 Screws and EVERYBODY knows if the motor cooked.... Bust as an average it has been the resistor Most of the time..The switch some of the time.. and the motor very rarely ...In 20 years I have maybe changed 4 motors...
I have replaced Both...In my 6 Econolines ..so Far .... at least 2 times each...It is Just a Ford Design that you need to know...Kinda like the E Series Vacuum Diagram and Reality ... regarding the Heater and AC Controls....BUT trust me If you only have 1 speed on the Blower ..It is that resisstor..Other than that it is Motor...3 Screws and EVERYBODY knows if the motor cooked.... Bust as an average it has been the resistor Most of the time..The switch some of the time.. and the motor very rarely ...In 20 years I have maybe changed 4 motors...
Motor-wise I've never had an OEM part fail on 4 different E-Series ranging from model years 1997 to 2005, each with 200K or more miles each. Same for the resistor network but the front blower speed switch and pig tail leads have given me issues on three of those vans. When the switch has over heated and failed its somewhat easy to feel a difference in its operation as you move it through its different selections.
Oddly enough the resistor network causes the switch to see more current than it was designed to safely carry especially over the longer term---even the OEM versions straight from the dealership. The higher current affecting the switch also takes its toll on the pig tail connector. Same for the resistor network pigtail.
FWIW I have an aftermarket rear heater from Pro-Air that is a dedicated 3 speed blower motor, each speed being actuated by a system of relays, one for each speed, each speed commanded by the front dash switch for that factory rear heat & A/C systems. In over 17 years those heaters have never seen any excessive amp draw. The Ford-design for blower speed control isn't horrible but the components they use are the biggest problem truth be known.
Took the resistor out and tested it along with the old one. Both failed the resistance tests. I first thought the replacement was just a dud and bought another. Before I put the new one in I put my finger in the blower fan and spun it. It was harder to turn than it should’ve been. Got a new one and all is well.
Also, another victory, albeit very costly, was the replacement catalytic converter the other day. It’s like driving a different vehicle now. I can’t articulate the diminished driving experience. It wasn’t just sluggish, every dynamic seemed affected…handling, ride, sloppy shifts. Oh, and my right ankle cramping having to stay on the throttle a little bit struggling to maintain a particular speed. Now the throttle is like butter! Love it!
Next up is exorcizing some demons out of my old Lexus LS400! Fun.
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When the switch has over heated and failed its somewhat easy to feel a difference in its operation as you move it through its different selections. 
