Why am i doing balljoints constantly?
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,028
Likes: 0
From: long island
Why am i doing balljoints constantly?
Every 2wd ford truck ive ever owned needs balljoints constantly. The vans are probably the worst offender. I get MAYBE 15k miles out of balljoints. And for me thats often less than a year. So my question is, what balljoints should i get? Is there a secret brand i havent tried? Ive used moog, mevotech, duralast, house brands, ive tried it all and nothing seems to last. My truck is a 1999 e350 7.3.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 794
Likes: 25
Ive only replaced mine once. How are all the bushings on front end, like pivot and I beam bushings? are they dry rotted and worn out?
This might sound like a silly question
but are they doing an alignment after replaceing them?
I used moog for a couple diffent vehicles with no issues, I would definately stay away from duralast and other house brands.
This might sound like a silly question
but are they doing an alignment after replaceing them?I used moog for a couple diffent vehicles with no issues, I would definately stay away from duralast and other house brands.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,028
Likes: 0
From: long island
Ive only replaced mine once. How are all the bushings on front end, like pivot and I beam bushings? are they dry rotted and worn out?
This might sound like a silly question but are they doing an alignment after replaceing them?
I used moog for a couple diffent vehicles with no issues, I would definately stay away from duralast and other house brands.
This might sound like a silly question
but are they doing an alignment after replaceing them?I used moog for a couple diffent vehicles with no issues, I would definately stay away from duralast and other house brands.
I do align the trucks after balljoints, however they seem to be fine if i dont move the camber/caster adjusters. But i do align it anyway. I appreciate your help! Im very frustrated with this.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,255
Likes: 1,657
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
I've so far done two different vans using nothing but Moog steering parts----in over 150K miles each are still solid as when first replaced. I never opt for anything cheap BTW---it sounds as though you don't either. Of course I use the greasable types, couldn't live with myself otherwise. 
One thing affecting ball joint wear is how skewed the front/rear weight bias is. Your van should have the higher rated front end components so I'd check the door tag seeing how much max weight you should run up front.
For your axle pivot and radius arm bushings I'll use Energy Suspension or Pro-Thane. Using either you do need to be advised the printed instructions included are WRONG for the E-Series---if you ever get that far come back and we can go through that for a better result.
One thing affecting ball joint wear is how skewed the front/rear weight bias is. Your van should have the higher rated front end components so I'd check the door tag seeing how much max weight you should run up front.
For your axle pivot and radius arm bushings I'll use Energy Suspension or Pro-Thane. Using either you do need to be advised the printed instructions included are WRONG for the E-Series---if you ever get that far come back and we can go through that for a better result.
More Turbo
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 661
Likes: 7
From: Central NJ
A few things I can think of. First off, these vans are known for going through ball joints, and the 7.3 is quite a heavy engine. Also, how are the roads you travel? The local roads around here are pretty rough.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,028
Likes: 0
From: long island
good point. These New york roads are absolutely brutal. I think im going to try the xrf balljoints and probably do radius arm bushings and whatever else i can get apart around the twin i beams. Xrf claims a million mile warranty. Heh heh heh
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,414
Likes: 10
From: Thornhill , Ontario
I am with JWA .......I use only Moog parts and except for the Radius Arm Bushings ...which are Poly ....everything is greasable and Moog..Or Spicer at the minimum ...I also have upgraded Springs and lately I Installed Rancho shocks...the other aspect is to get everything aligned with the correct camber etc. etc. etc. Your Tires will love you ...I live In T.Dot...roads are ALWAYS under Contruction......so alot of potholes....
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,558
Likes: 26
From: Bay Area
I've so far done two different vans using nothing but Moog steering parts----in over 150K miles each are still solid as when first replaced. I never opt for anything cheap BTW---it sounds as though you don't either. Of course I use the greasable types, couldn't live with myself otherwise.
One thing affecting ball joint wear is how skewed the front/rear weight bias is. Your van should have the higher rated front end components so I'd check the door tag seeing how much max weight you should run up front.
For your axle pivot and radius arm bushings I'll use Energy Suspension or Pro-Thane. Using either you do need to be advised the printed instructions included are WRONG for the E-Series---if you ever get that far come back and we can go through that for a better result.
One thing affecting ball joint wear is how skewed the front/rear weight bias is. Your van should have the higher rated front end components so I'd check the door tag seeing how much max weight you should run up front.
For your axle pivot and radius arm bushings I'll use Energy Suspension or Pro-Thane. Using either you do need to be advised the printed instructions included are WRONG for the E-Series---if you ever get that far come back and we can go through that for a better result.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,255
Likes: 1,657
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
For some reason I'm thinking there's more to this story of replacing ball joints at 15K miles.
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