My buddy mentioned that there may be one there but I only saw the fuel pump under there. I double check as we were just getting to the beach when I looked and my wife and kids were tapping their toes to get going.

 

Uvch problem will not throw a "uvch code". If you have a temp gun you can get an idea of what's going on by pointing it at the exhaust manifold flanges at the head on all 8 cylinders. It's not exactly accurate but gets you in the ball park. You should have around 60 psi at an idle and in a perfect world your fuel pump would maintain that number at wot, it never really works that way. With a temp gun a dead cylinder will be very obvious, an entire bank will be even more so.

Also check your oil.

 

I believe a loose uvch can set a p1316

 

Alright, I had a handful of codes::

• PCM Module
  • P0344- Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Intermittent (Bank 1 or single sensor)
  • P1316 - Injector Driver Module Codes Detected
  • P1670 - Electronic Feedback Signal Not Detected
  • P1247 - Turbo Boost Pressure Low - I started the truck before I realized I hadn't reconnected the air filter tube and revved it a little. Or could be from the lack of power?
• Message Center Module
  • B1203 - Fuel sender circuit short to battery - Would explain my fuel gauge not working

So I suppose I should revisit the UVCH and change out the CPS? I didn't get a chance to test the fuel pressure tonight but I'll get back to you with that tomorrow afternoon.

Thoughts?

 

Check the oil for something specific? I looked at the volume and that's fine. Still crystal clear but I just changed it 500-600 miles ago.

 

I came across this thread which is discussing similar problems.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...-metering.html

Looking at this further, the P1247 may be more part of the issue. I'll check further on the turbo connections etc. while I'm poking around in there checking the UVCH connections.

Probably would have been smart to actually unplug and inspect the pins last time. But hey, I should be faster taking it apart now.

 

Volume is what you were looking for. The injectors run off of oil and I figured you're looking everywhere else anyways why not look there and rule that out too.

Did you ohm out the harness or verify fuel pressure yet?

 

Other than reading the codes, the South Florida storms when I get off of work have been keeping me from working on it right now. I'm running to get the parts to check the fuel pressure tonight but ill be out of town for the weekend. I've read a lot of threads on the electrical connectors deteriorating and causing shorts and the codes that I am getting seem like they could be indicative of that. This Ex has 367,000 and has never lived more than a mile from the beach so I am going to do a through check of the connections before I get the valve covers off for the ohm test, get a CPS, ICP and change them just for the heck of it, I'm pretty sure both of those and the UVCH are all originals.

 

Go with Motorcraft sensors every time you have the option. Buy once, cry once.

 

Now that you have codes, clear them and see what comes back.

A buzz test will give an idea how the IDM is working and if the harness is good.

During any of this was there smoke from the exhaust?

My bet is still low fuel pressure.

 

No smoke at all.

The engine running poorly won’t affect the fuel pressure right? All the fuel line pressures are from the fuel pump, correct?

 

@aawlberninf350 I came across this suggestion you gave out many years ago. If UVCH and CPS swaps don't do the trick, and fuel pressure is low, will doing this be my next step to confirm a dirty tank screen? This seems like a good step before actually visually inspecting the tank since ill have to pull out a considerable amount of fuel to be able to handle it.

 

If you can't verify fuel pressure and want to assume it clogged screens in the tank now causing low fuel pressure, do this.

Open fuel door, take fuel cap off, let it dangle, disconnect the fuel line on the back of the fuel pump, blow pressurized air into the line (toward the tank), listen for air making it's way through the tank, hook fuel line back up, reinstall fuel cap, close fuel door, get in the truck, cycle ignition a few times, start, drive and see if there's any difference.

 

Correct, fuel pressure is independent of engine performance. Engine performance very much depends on FP tho! Fuel side is really simple on these, thankfully.

John's advice above is great, blow crud off the in tank fuel screens. If that fixes the problem for a while you know the problem is clogged screens. My old advice above to pull clean fuel into the system is an indirect way to accomplish the same diagnosis, but blowing the screens clean is more direct.

 

I know everyone couldn’t sleep this weekend wondering how my Ex was doing. I spent basically all day today working on it and I am closer but not done.
-Fuel pressure was fine. Idling just under 60 psi. Doesn’t drop under 54 psi at WOT.

-changed CPS, code is gone, no change in performance.

-multi meter was crapped out. So I didn’t check ohms but figured since I was replacing both UVCH it was irrelevant (more on that in a minute)

- I replaced both UVCH. Honestly neither of the 2 I took out looked bad. Clips were solid and all connections seemed fine. Issue persists.

So I did the buzz test and had the P1923 code, injector high side open. This video is EXACTLY what is happening what my truck and sounds identical on start and idle, with no power. Muffled buzz on the passenger injectors. Contribution test also shows issue on the odd cylinders as well.


https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=GHwjEf...ature=youtu.be

So I only did the harness, not the gasket. I did remove and inspect both. Absolutely no burns or corrosion or anything on any male pins. Can I do the ohm test with the valve covers on? If so, how do I do it? I’m really not sure it’s the gasket connection to be honest, there just didn’t seem to be any issue with it and I assume it’s just a straight continuous copper pin through the gasket.

I don’t know what else it could be. Any way to confirm the outside connector is good? I don’t know much about checking electrical connections. I assume I can get a reading by testing that connector though.