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Wow, thank you guys (seriously) for all the ideas, forums are cool for stuff like this.
I ultimately picked up a 55" 4 Ga negative w/pigtail from a local NAPA store. Eighteen dollars out the door, and I'm set.
Also went to my brother's house and picked up an A/C compressor for the currently-operating Taurus SHO.... damn, I'm loving driving that car. With any luck, these are my projects for the near future.
~~
It got to 100F again today and air quality is again exceedingly poor. Looks like Denver, CO had the world's worst air quality (what with all the forest fires) in the world last Saturday....
Is it difficult to drive while having to wear a bag over your head?
Chris,
I must offer an apology. I realize now it was inappropriate to have made fun of your alleged "repair". After all, if you want to do something so hokey and embarrassing, bringing shame upon you and your family name, who am I to mock you? Therefore, I offer a sincere, heartfelt apology, and I mean that from the heart of my bottom.
I must offer an apology. I realize now it was inappropriate to have made fun of your alleged "repair". After all, if you want to do something so hokey and embarrassing, bringing shame upon you and your family name, who am I to mock you? Therefore, I offer a sincere, heartfelt apology, and I mean that from the heart of my bottom.
LOL that's funny, Karl!!! I'd rep ya for that, but we do the Like thing here nowadays.
"Can't get any better than that" - I was referring to the dang computer being perfectly happy with *everything,* on the engine, which is sometimes a difficult process with the SHO.
I'm sure you know the term Scope Creep so I won't explain it here, but here are some more pics of where I'm at with the battery cable thing. Like most everything in these cars, one thing leads to another... and this car has a broken front engine mount, also in this same exact area... *sigh*
I've got some threads on shoforum.com about things related to this car and people come up with some cool ideas, just like here on FTE, e.g.:
It's only supposed to be 90F today (81 in the garage right now), and I'm scheduled to do Yoga in my basement with my brother & aunt early this afternoon.
Up next, I think I've located all the dang specialty tools I use on this car, e.g. 10mm 3/8" drive, possibly a 1" extension... or maybe just a deep well will work, I'll hafta try from all the contorted angles I need to get myself into to work on this car... and can likely begin anytime now....
Four 10mm bolts holding that suction tube manifold to the compressor are awaiting me.............
Lots of cool ideas, been lookin around the local stores to see what's available off the shelf (NOTMUCH!!!) as well as Amazon & eBay.
Here is what it is right now; I don't like it but it works, and passes KOER & CM with 111s, can't get any better than that. There was also a C clamp on there once upon a time, but it looks like it fell off somewhere. *sigh*
Ah...the ol warsher on the bolt trick. I'll go you one better. Instead of a warsher you could use a modified single ear conduit clamp of the proper size. Heck might even be considered a permanent fix!
One more effing bolt. One. Compressor to block, lower LH corner. Two bolts removed, top-right loosened, one more to be broken open.
I can *see* it from various angles, but getting my hands & tools into there really, really sucks. 1/4" drive, 3/8" drive, now 1/2" drive tools in use at this point.
Possibly this will be finished today, we'll see... working on this car can be sooooo annoying at times.....
One more effing bolt. One. Compressor to block, lower LH corner. Two bolts removed, top-right loosened, one more to be broken open.
I can *see* it from various angles, but getting my hands & tools into there really, really sucks. 1/4" drive, 3/8" drive, now 1/2" drive tools in use at this point.
Possibly this will be finished today, we'll see... working on this car can be sooooo annoying at times.....
And this is why the newer stuff goes back to the dealer as I would get so pissed I would throw a hammer through the windshield and walk away for weeks or months!
You are a better man than I am LOL
Dave ----
I can't get the starter broken off the phuqueing block!!! Argh!!!!!!!
Clearances are REAL tight, I can't get much leverage, there's all this plastic radiator **** nearby, I'm afraid I'm going to break something or hurt myself somehow.
So, I asked a shomaster friend to drop by and point me in the right direction... so the car is back in the garage for the night, so be it.
POS car, I hate this phuquer sometimes....
I'm seeing why these cars are forever projects....
Here you go, a compression battery terminal. These are perfect for repairs. Add a little dielectric compound (same as used on spark plug boots) to exclude corrosion:
NAPA sells them, so hopefully you can pick up one locally.
When buying any battery terminal, make sure you specify for the positive or negative post. They are different sizes. I do not care to discuss how I know this.
I wanted so bad to find one of these things!!! No such luck, though.... at least I found a new cable locally.
My truck is blowing the brake light/emergency flasher fuse, that's concerning.
Mine did the same thing a few weeks ago after I fixed the dash light LEDs
It was a wire that got pinched between the column and the dash frame for the trailer brake controller as I put the bolts back in that fell out while driving
I dont think yours will be that easy will it?
The way my son found it was it popped the fuse when you hit the brake pedal. Thinking it was maybe the switch he unplugged it and it did not pop the fuse. But if you jumped the plug it popped.
The other thing that was tapped into the brake light wire was the trailer controller, once removed no more popped fuse.
At first we where thinking it was in the column / turn switch and was not looking forward to that.
Good luck
Dave ----
ps I used a breaker in place of the fuse when testing then put the right size fuse back in when it was fixed
Insert this tester in place of the troublesome fuse, and you can read the amperage directly. This will really help narrow down much current is flowing and when.
Is fuse #1 the problem child? It is shown to the far right on those diagrams. Note how the circuit branches off at the upstream side of the hazard flasher. Unplug the hazard flasher (the one facing the firewall) and this will eliminate half of the circuit for troubleshooting. See if the amperage drops back to normal.
If removing the hazard flasher is no help, reinstall it and unplug the brake switch. Now you're only testing the half of the circuit that passes through the hazard flasher but not the brake switch.
If the problem is on the hazard flasher side of the circuit, replace the flasher with a jumper for troubleshooting. Then you're testing a much simpler circuit with a power source, a switch, and the bulbs. It's a lot easier than trying to read through the flasher, which doesn't close unless the circuit is complete.
Insert this tester in place of the troublesome fuse, and you can read the amperage directly. This will really help narrow down much current is flowing and when.
Is fuse #1 the problem child? It is shown to the far right on those diagrams. Note how the circuit branches off at the upstream side of the hazard flasher. Unplug the hazard flasher (the one facing the firewall) and this will eliminate half of the circuit for troubleshooting. See if the amperage drops back to normal.
If removing the hazard flasher is no help, reinstall it and unplug the brake switch. Now you're only testing the half of the circuit that passes through the hazard flasher but not the brake switch.
If the problem is on the hazard flasher side of the circuit, replace the flasher with a jumper for troubleshooting. Then you're testing a much simpler circuit with a power source, a switch, and the bulbs. It's a lot easier than trying to read through the flasher, which doesn't close unless the circuit is complete.
Cool, thank you, Karl!
One project at a time, this Taurus A/C thing is still going on....
06-17-2021, 03:50 PM
