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Trying to figure out what kind of an axle I have up front; truck is missing the front drive shaft after the PO replaced the TF with a "new" NP205 and rear axle with a Ford 9" with 3.73 gears...
I found some mentioning that Dana 44 axles (which is what I suspect I have) had the ID tag under the tag that retains the inspection cover... but I don't believe mine has one. Can someone show some reference pictures? If I am indeed missing the tag - how can I figure out what axle I have?
My 74 has a Ford 9" rear and a Dana 44 front as well.
Thanks - but how can I find out what ratio it came with? Based on the warranty plate which shows 08J, the original rear axle was a 3.50 Ford; but the J for the front axle is not coming up with anything... so would that be a 3.50 too then? If my rear end now is a 3.73 (based on tires + speed + rpm - I will do actual inspection when it's on a lift), can I swap 3.73 gears into the 44 or is it easier to just get a whole new 3.73 axle (or swap the rear end for a 3.50)?
Thanks - but how can I find out what ratio it came with? Based on the warranty plate which shows 08J, the original rear axle was a 3.50 Ford; but the J for the front axle is not coming up with anything... so would that be a 3.50 too then? If my rear end now is a 3.73 (based on tires + speed + rpm - I will do actual inspection when it's on a lift), can I swap 3.73 gears into the 44 or is it easier to just get a whole new 3.73 axle (or swap the rear end for a 3.50)?
Thanks!
The only real way without the tag is to pop off the front cover and take a look. The ring gear will be stamped and you can identify from that. I have 3.50 gears front and rear in mine. In all honesty, you may be better off pulling the rear third and just swapping it out with a known good third from the yard that already has 3.50's in it if you have never done gears before. If you have done gears and have all the necessary tools like a dial gauge, impacts and a quality install set then go for it. At that point ya may as well rebuild the entire front end.
The only real way without the tag is to pop off the front cover and take a look. The ring gear will be stamped and you can identify from that. I have 3.50 gears front and rear in mine. In all honesty, you may be better off pulling the rear third and just swapping it out with a known good third from the yard that already has 3.50's in it if you have never done gears before. If you have done gears and have all the necessary tools like a dial gauge, impacts and a quality install set then go for it. At that point ya may as well rebuild the entire front end.
The rear end is practically brand new - about a year old give or take so I'd rather keep it and probably redo the front end if it is not 3.73 already :\
3.50s were pretty common, my '77 F150 has them. A "brand new" rear set up may sound "new" and enticing, but consider that most never really "need" a new set of gears, it's usually a lack of lube, water incursion, or simply abuse that brings a need, and often is simply a matter of "wanting more gear" that leads to ratio changes. That front is clearly a D-44, might be a 3.54 still, I have been told by some that Ford paired it with a 3.50 rear in these trucks, but I've never counted mine's turns. If part time, with hubs, chances are the front differential has very low miles of actual running. In short, if me, I'd keep an eye open for a good 3.50 pumpkin.
To make sure of the front ratio with no front drive shaft in place, lock the hubs, jack a front tire up, set a good stand under it, and use your chalk to mark both the wheel to a brake part near by, and the front drive shaft flange at the differential casting, then rotate the front tire exactly twice while counting the drive shaft turns. "Twice" because you are only turning one front tire. The front differential is why. You can have a buddy, GF, wife, mother, dad turn the tire twice slowly as you count those drive shaft flange turns.
If you use 4wd as is, the rear of the truck will be wanting to go slower than the front. Likely the PO left the shaft out because he had not changed the front ratio.
Our tag was to the left of the fill plug. It tore when we unbolted the cover and did not re-install it because it would have gotten worse when we torqued the bolts. Dig around in the glove box etc... and see if the PO stashed it somewhere.
Our tag was to the left of the fill plug. It tore when we unbolted the cover and did not re-install it because it would have gotten worse when we torqued the bolts. Dig around in the glove box etc... and see if the PO stashed it somewhere.
My money is on it being a 3.50
Here is a pic of ours for reference.
This. Mine was in my glove box courtesy of the PO.
Dana 44 1/2 ton....X2 on do the d/s mark-tire rotation ck to get fairly close. But yes pulling the cover and looking at the ring gear stamp is the 100% way.
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At that point ya may as well rebuild the entire front end.
