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There's an exception to this, and that's an F250 equipped with the High-Capacity Trailer Tow Package. That option configures the F250 with the F350's rear axle and suspension.
My original order was for the camper package which had a stiffer front spring and extra leaf in the rear. I ended up with an XLT without that package though.
There's an exception to this, and that's an F250 equipped with the High-Capacity Trailer Tow Package. That option configures the F250 with the F350's rear axle and suspension.
This specific configuration gets the Tremor guys atwitter because the F250 Tremor option requires the High-Capacity Trailer Tow Package, resulting in everyone with an F250 Tremor being fender badges and yellow load decals away from being F350s. That's one reason I sold my F250 Tremor and replaced it with an F350 Tremor. Exact same parts, different stickers, more capacity.
On the 250 I ordered I don’t need more “towing capacity” and really don’t need more payload (even with the Diesel engine) and have more concern about the registration and licensing of a 10k+ GVWR vehicle, so I stuck with the stock 250 rear end. However, I did add the snow plow/camper package which upgrades my front end to the heaviest springs and adds a sway bar and an additional leaf spring to the back end. I understand that it’s still the Sterling 10.5 axle in the rear but I have also seen where that axle is rated for just over 9700 lbs. I will not exceed my sticker numbers but I feel like with the added suspension from the snow plow/camper package and by going with A/T tires my rating is truly higher than the stickers 10K. How much, who knows, and like I said, I’ll stay under the stickered numbers anyway, but it’s nice knowing my truck will most likely be derated and that gives me more comfort.
If you plan on bigger tires and 3.55 gears the only way I know currently on the 6.7 to get 10,000 gvwr is a 350 srw with a derate. On an optioned up CCSB it will put you right at 2000 payload +/- a few.
The leaf pack in a 250 should handle a 12-13k 5th wheel. I use to tow a 15k +/- gooseneck routinely with my platinum F250 6.7. The 5th wheel is heavier on the pin I bet.
I dont know if that is what the OP needs or not he should check his state laws.
A 7.3 should be able to tow that trailer but if a diesel works for your driving routine and budget get that. I sold mine recently and will be going back to a 7.3 because I drive in town a lot.
On the 250 I ordered I don’t need more “towing capacity” and really don’t need more payload (even with the Diesel engine) and have more concern about the registration and licensing of a 10k+ GVWR vehicle, so I stuck with the stock 250 rear end.
That's why I ordered my new one derated to 10k. Here in VA trucks with GVWR over 10k have to run truck plates, not passenger plates, even when owned just for personal use. That means higher personal property taxes ($800+ more per year), and as over July 2019 higher annual registration fees including a surcharge per 1000 lbs GVWR. That caused my registration fees to more than double per year. In 2017 I did a 3 year registration that cost $209. That 3 year registration last year cost $480.
This is not really directed at this thread, however just a general question on what y'all suggest. When everyone is suggesting a 350 over a 250, are y'all talking about a crew cab long bed or a short bed version. I just don't see very many ccsb F350's. I would assume for mostly towing that the long bed is the preferred way to go for payload. I just see the quote" get an F350" a lot on here.
The F350 has more payload than the F250. You can get the hctt on the F250, but you are still 700 lbs gvwr less than the F350 ccsb and 1600 lbs less than a F350 cclb. Long beds are better for towing, but most go with the ccsb for the size factor. I don't know where you live, but it seems 80+% of the SD's I see are ccsb's.
That's why I ordered my new one derated to 10k. Here in VA trucks with GVWR over 10k have to run truck plates, not passenger plates, even when owned just for personal use. That means higher personal property taxes ($800+ more per year), and as over July 2019 higher annual registration fees including a surcharge per 1000 lbs GVWR. That caused my registration fees to more than double per year. In 2017 I did a 3 year registration that cost $209. That 3 year registration last year cost $480.
This is why I stuck with the 10k rating too. As I said I won’t hit any of my numbers but of course with my build the payload is low and it would be the first number that I would even come close to. Also, with the suspension upgrades I did add, even if I did get close I still wouldn’t be worried at the trucks actual ability to handle it.
Alao, I’m not super familiar with all the tags and what not, but here in MS I will get a B16 tag for my 10K rated 250. I have no idea how much it will cost yet but the ladies at the DMV assured me it will be less expensive than going with a B10 or even the regular passenger tag. Others I have spoke to that also have those tags confirmed it was drastically cheaper too! Now to get my VIN and find out exactly how much!!
First rule?
Don’t listen to closely to a dealer’s advice, and definitely discard salespersons advice.
Just skip the gas completely, and save yourself the second guesses.
First, if you are going to tow, buy the F-350 diesel.
Second, if you put a premium on ride, buy the diesel.
Third, if you buy the gas, remember my suggestions and that “I told you so”.
Ok so I just placed the order and got confirmation email. I was told that I have a few weeks to make changes so I would really appreciate some feedback on a few things that I am thinking about changing. Here is the build
2022 f-350 crew cab short bed 4x4 xlt
7.3v8 with the 3.73 gears.
xlt premium package
fx4 off road package
powerscope trailer tow mirror
wheel well liners front and rear
remote start
I did the carpet since my last truck had vinyl and I didn’t like the way it looked.
Also a lot of standard equipment that comes with xlt.
Is there anything else that I am missing or should consider?
I am having second thoughts on the gears, I know the towing is much better with the 4.30 but I will not be doing as much towing as others here. I chose f-350 over f-250 for more payload, I think it was a better choice. I didn’t do camper/plow package cause I believe it offers a harsher ride from what I have read.
I am thinking about adding power adjustable pedal, worth it?
I am also thinking about removing wheel well liners front and back cause they look a bit weird from the few trucks I have seen, am I overthinking this and should just keep them?
finally the remote start, I had the remote start on my phone and key on my last truck and mostly used the phone, should I remove that or will I wish I didn’t down the road?
sorry for all the questions, first truck I have built and it’s kinda strange to build a truck from scratch, always just bought vehicles in stock. Thanks everyone.
I love remote start from my key.
I never use the adjustable pedals, but if my wife drove the truck very much, she probably would.
I ordered rear wheel liners only, on the 22 I have coming.
As far as the gears, I currently have 3:55s with the diesel. Tows my 14,500lb fiver like crazy. I am ordering 3:31s with the 10 speed and diesel. Not sure how that translates to the 7.3 v8. I’m guessing the 4:30 would be overkill with the 10 speed unless you’re towing super heavy.
I ordered the ultimate trailer tow package to get the 360* cameras. Wish I could get just the cameras without the other stuff.
I think your right about the remote start, better to have than get as aftermarket option down the road. So my main concern are the gear choices, many of the things I have read say go with 4.30, most of those posts are related to the 6speed and not the 10speed. Hopefully someone can offer some feedback. I really wanted the diesel but could not justify the price for the little towing I would be doing. Someone at the dealer just mentioned that a top guy from a huge oil company told them that diesel will be around 6-7 dollars by beginning of next year, kinda make me think a little more about the purchase. Not sure how credible that info is but definitely made me reconsider.
So my main concern are the gear choices, many of the things I have read say go with 4.30, most of those posts are related to the 6speed and not the 10speed.
Thats funny, all the posts I read that suggest 4.30 gears are in combination with the 7.3l. Which is only available with the 10 spd.
Yea sorry I should have been more specific, I meant the gas engines which included the 6.2, a lot of people suggested the 4.30. Not sure if that’s to run bigger tires or higher towing capability.
If you do not plan to run bigger tires (over 35x12.50) the 3.73 will probably be more efficient. Thats the main reason I would do a 7.3 f350, for the 3.73 availability as I think the 3.73 elocker is a freebie on the 350 Srw.
So I decided based on more research that I will add the plow/camper package (hopefully I won’t regret it) I will also change to 4.30 gears. I think it’s better to have that extra towing capability than not have it.
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