70s ish 302
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70s ish 302
So I’ve been trying to figure out a problem with my 302 (not very experienced). The problem is it doesn’t keep oil pressure. I’ll start it and it’ll climb and hold a little over half but as it warms up it’ll drop and when idling it will drop below low. I replaced the oil pump and screen and it helped a little bit as in it doesn’t drop as fast but still does it and I’m just curious what the problem might be.
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You should connect a real oil pressure gauge to it and see what you oil pressure really is. The OEM gauge is almost an "on off" type.
What weight oil? How many miles? Any blue clouds, fouled plugs etc?
It's normal for oil pressure to drop once the oil is hot. The key here is to determine the actual numbers and make sure you have adequate pressure.
Don't plumb it in or run plastic tubing into the interior, just thread it in where the OEM sender is.
What weight oil? How many miles? Any blue clouds, fouled plugs etc?
It's normal for oil pressure to drop once the oil is hot. The key here is to determine the actual numbers and make sure you have adequate pressure.
Don't plumb it in or run plastic tubing into the interior, just thread it in where the OEM sender is.
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302
Well the spark plugs and wires are all brand new when we replaced the valve covers (cracked) we noticed the engine was full of carbon and tried cleaning as much as we could. But I can tell the oil pressure is dropping below a normal amount because the engine starts idling different like it’s stuttering is the best I can describe it and has a very quiet tick that goes away once it revs back up it also seems to burn oil it currently has 5w30 but it has done it with every oil we have put in it. The miles is unknown we assume it’s a late 60s to early 70s bronco 302 in a 1973 f350 the miles on the truck though is probably around 178,000
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If you have 10psi per 1000 rpm it won't blow up. Usually.
Pull the cap off the distributor. Rotate the engine by hand until you see the rotor move.
Reverse the rotation and note how many degrees of crankshaft rotation you have before the rotor starts to move in the reverse direction.
You may have a worn out (well, more worn out than the rest of the motor) timing chain. That will cause a wandering idle.
Pull the cap off the distributor. Rotate the engine by hand until you see the rotor move.
Reverse the rotation and note how many degrees of crankshaft rotation you have before the rotor starts to move in the reverse direction.
You may have a worn out (well, more worn out than the rest of the motor) timing chain. That will cause a wandering idle.
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Joined: Oct 2006
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From: East Central Ia
I did a backyard overhaul on a 78 302 once. Didn't have much money at the time and thrust bearing surface went out on crank. Pulled engine and put on stand.Never took the heads off just replaced valve stem seals then pulled pan and front cover, pulled crank out replaced it with junkyard one, new bearings and timing chain with crank seals. Drove it another 100K. Dropping a crank into an engine with all the pistons and rods in is best done with a helper.
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