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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

A/C Vents/Vacuum

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Old May 30, 2021 | 03:39 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by andrewrandall01

ALSO just found this im assuming resistor with missing pins and all sorts problems and thought this could be a problem...


The resistor pack itself is probably okay. The "missing" contact at the top is normal. Here's an image stolen from RockAuto:




Two plugs attach to the resistor pack:

1) The plug at the bottom (C602) has three sockets and three wires. It looks like that one is correctly installed.

2) The plug at the top (C604) has two large wires joined at a single socket. That one is not connected, and appears to be the one at the lower left of your picture. To be sure that is the plug, one of those wires has another inline connector (C228, single wire) just a few inches away. The other side of C228 goes into a small corrugated tube that follows the AC line running along the firewall and over to the compressor.

You can see the connectors here:




Try reconnecting C604 (the upper plug) and see if the fan behaves itself now.




 
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Old May 30, 2021 | 03:50 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by andrewrandall01
Okay here is the question i need answered. There is 2 wires to the blower motor, when i test with the voltmeter one is running 13-14 volts and changing when i flip the speed, and the other one is always reading 12. Where the hell is the ground????? Is the constant 12 shorting out somewhere????
The blower motor circuit has a slightly unusual design, at least for 1986. One side of the fan gets constant battery voltage when the ignition is switched on. Resistors are added inline on the ground side of the circuit for the lower speeds.

Don't worry about the voltage readings at the moment. Such readings aren't always cut and dry, especially the way current behaves flowing through resistors. See my previous message about the missing connector and see if that helps.

If the fan motor still doesn't seem up to snuff, run this quick test of the ignition switch:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...on-switch.html


The fan motor is probably the biggest amp draw through the ignition switch. As the switch gets older, this portion of the switch is the most likely to fail. This test will quickly confirm if it's still okay or not.
 
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Old May 30, 2021 | 04:44 PM
  #18  
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Thanks for the response,

I connected everything like you said and we have working switches and such but, when i put the fan speed to medium i basically feel no air at all at the vents. I hear it running and such but its just really damn soft. I mean maybe it is a bad blower motor but at this point i doubt it. The only other symptom is when i turn on the heat (move the slider to the right) i get absolutely no airflow now, so maybe there is a blade in the way somewhere. The blower motor stil has the stickers on it, and the connectors look perfect and so does the internal motor so i doubt it could've gone bad. I took the motor off once again and all looks good, so yeah the only symptom left is low air speed and no air at all when heater is on.

ALSO- replaced the ignition switch only a couple months back but will check right now (UPDATE) ignition switch is within spec
 
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Old May 30, 2021 | 05:22 PM
  #19  
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One other thing to check; If the blower motor is new, it may be turning the wrong way. The last few blower motors I have bought were made for several different applications. So they gave you the wire with the ends and the plastic plug housing, I had to load the plastic housing with the correct polarity so the fan turned the right direction. If you get it wrong it will still blow air, but not as strong as it will running the correct direction. I know how people never seem to read the instructions, even seasoned mechanics. So there is the possibility the fan is turning the wrong direction.
 
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Old May 30, 2021 | 05:25 PM
  #20  
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Haha thatd be really funny if that was the case after all this. Just tested it and yes the polarity is correct. Funny enough it almost feels the same even on high
 
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Old May 30, 2021 | 05:33 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by andrewrandall01
Which way should it be turning frank?
His name is Dave...
 
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Old May 30, 2021 | 06:10 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
If the blower motor is new, it may be turning the wrong way...
Excellent point. Standing at the front, looking aft towards the firewall, the fan should be turning counterclockwise.


 
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Old May 30, 2021 | 07:22 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
One other thing to check; If the blower motor is new, it may be turning the wrong way. The last few blower motors I have bought were made for several different applications. So they gave you the wire with the ends and the plastic plug housing, I had to load the plastic housing with the correct polarity so the fan turned the right direction. If you get it wrong it will still blow air, but not as strong as it will running the correct direction. I know how people never seem to read the instructions, even seasoned mechanics. So there is the possibility the fan is turning the wrong direction.
Originally Posted by kr98664
Excellent point. Standing at the front, looking aft towards the firewall, the fan should be turning counterclockwise.
How can the current be wrong? The plugs are idiot proof.

How? Well, I come along and prove they are only idiot resistant.

I reversed the connector which is only meant to go on one way, and SHAZAM!!! It went from flickering a candle to tornado.

Thanks, guys!
 
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Old May 30, 2021 | 08:31 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by andrewrandall01
Thanks for the response,

I connected everything like you said and we have working switches and such but, when i put the fan speed to medium i basically feel no air at all at the vents. I hear it running and such but its just really damn soft. I mean maybe it is a bad blower motor but at this point i doubt it. The only other symptom is when i turn on the heat (move the slider to the right) i get absolutely no airflow now, so maybe there is a blade in the way somewhere. The blower motor stil has the stickers on it, and the connectors look perfect and so does the internal motor so i doubt it could've gone bad. I took the motor off once again and all looks good, so yeah the only symptom left is low air speed and no air at all when heater is on.

ALSO- replaced the ignition switch only a couple months back but will check right now (UPDATE) ignition switch is within spec
Originally Posted by Franklin2
One other thing to check; If the blower motor is new, it may be turning the wrong way. The last few blower motors I have bought were made for several different applications. So they gave you the wire with the ends and the plastic plug housing, I had to load the plastic housing with the correct polarity so the fan turned the right direction. If you get it wrong it will still blow air, but not as strong as it will running the correct direction. I know how people never seem to read the instructions, even seasoned mechanics. So there is the possibility the fan is turning the wrong direction.
I was thinking the same thing, new fan and it was wired wrong.

Then I see he tested and it is still low on CFM?
Think it is time to pull the dash pad so you can look at the top of the box for any leaks to the duct work.
Dave ----
 
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Old May 30, 2021 | 08:44 PM
  #25  
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Hey Dave, I did that early yesterday and have no leaks. I think its something relating to the fact that i put the heat on and there is no air at all. I have an idea for what to do and ill let everyone know how it goes
 
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Old May 30, 2021 | 09:38 PM
  #26  
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IIRC the temp control is by cable to work the door and have not heard of any issues with the door but if there was I dont think it would stop the air flow just stay hot or cold.
Dave ----
 
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