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So,again I'm going to double post this question in 2 subs to make the best informed decision I can.I put it in the towing sub originally,but if some of you are like me,I usually just come to the 2017+ SD sub....and this is what my questions pertain to specifically.So here it is.............
So,some of you may have seen my other thread recently about my trucks towing capacity/toy hauler dilemma https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...apability.html
I have since decided on the TH I want,and now am looking into buying a new WDH for the package.Again,after reading a bunch of stuff/reviews/opinions on multiple hitches,I have narrowed my choices down to 3-Equalizer,Husky Centerline,and BlueOx Sway Pro.Currently I'm leaning towards the BlueOx mainly due to the option of a 2.5" shank.....except it is only available in 20k/2k TW.I realize this is overkill,but I am curious about the advantage/disadvantages of the 2" vs. 2.5" shank size?I saw a few threads where guys did not like towing with a reducer sleeve,which made me consider a 2.5" shank.I don't really feel like I need 2k bars for my 1150 TW/8k trailer.As well,I don't want to spend $600+ on a WDH setup,then have to buy a $200+ shank to fit the 2.5" receiver,as it appears it necks down to the 2'" head for the 15k/1500lb. hitch head.
The Husky Centerline I'm looking at is the 33039 14k/1400lb TW....$500ish,2" shank.The Equalizer is the 16k/1600lb TW...$900ish, 2.5" shank,but noisy.but evidently noisy.As well,the Husky,and Equalizer shanks appear to be solid square stock,whereas the BO is recessed in the middle receiver shank.I guess where I'm going is looking for opinions on pros and cons of shank size,as well as spring bar(?) weights in regards to my TH selection.I do understand the scaling the trailer loaded/unloaded aspect,but feel these weights will be within my range hauling mostly bikes...dirt or street.Just trying to find a happy medium compromise.
Ratings aside, here's my reason for preferring the 2.5" shank. Not having to deal with the adapters. I have different things that go into my receiver. Small trailer hitch, WDH hitch, bicycle rack, and motorcycle carrier. The more I take those things in and out, the more chance I have to forget the adapter. I've already lost one adapter that I forgot to remove. It likely joined the other dozen or I've seen on the freeway on my commute to work. They really are easy to forget to remove from the receiver. I now keep an extra one in the garage, just in case I lost the last one I used.
Some may say to tack weld it to the shank. This is not a good idea, since the heat affected zone creates a stress riser. Sure, you could bond it with something like JB weld. But, I use the items mentioned above in other applications that are only 2", so I don't want anything permanent, other than my WDH, which is only used on this truck, and it only ever needs to be 2.5".
I have an EAZ LIFT Trekker, which is basically a Camco knockoff of the equalizer. It’s only noticeably noisy when you are pulling in or pulling out of someplace. The bars just creak and pop a bit when you are making substantial turns. When my 2022 F350 delivery date approaches, I plan to order a 2.5” shank for it (currently $118 on Amazon), and swap it over.
Have you considered finding your ideal hitch system, then swapping the shank? I noticed E-Trailer sells the Equalizer 1400lb system with the shank sold separately. I’m not saying this is your ideal hitch, but it seems like another good option. I’d be worried about having a harsh connection with the 1600lb bars if your loaded tongue weight didn’t increase a couple hundred pounds over the brochure weight.
Based on my own research I would say you are best to try an match the WDH specs as close as possible to what your towing (with some head space built in) So my TT is roughly 7500 lbs loaded. So tongue weight is somewhere in the vacinity of 800lbs. I am running the Equilizer WDH at the 1000/10000 configuration. Which I believe to be just about ideal for my application.. that being said I also hemmed and hawed at getting a 2.5" shank to replace the 2" on there right now. I've towed a few times now with the reducer.. I haven't noticed any excessive noises or clunking. Actually none in fact.. Yes it's a bit of a PITA when trying to line it up. What I did temporarily was wrapped electrical tape around the shank where I needed the reducer to stop. This actually worked quite well for a Micky mouse fix.. So far I've had no I'll effect s of running a reducer. I think long term it would be worth swapping it out for a 2.5" shank and be done with it ...my 2c
I just did a swap this week from an older style 2” WDH that used the chain type bars to an Equalizer 16k friction bar type with 2-1/2”. I also ordered the 1/4” plastic friction plates that are supposed to cut down on noise.
My trailer is an enclosed car hauler that I built living quarters in the nose. Depending on car being hauled and items in front I am between 12k and 14k loaded. I have not done a long haul yet but will be doing 2400 miles next week.
There is a BIG difference between these two types of hitches. The old hitch towed fine but I knew I was over the weight for that one. The new hitch is harder to hook-up but it really does move the weight forward.
Now, I am waiting on the new F-350 with 12,400# capacity. The ‘16 F-250 pulls fine but is maxed out plus a little.
My moto has always been: I would rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it.
I have a 2" shank WDH with chain bars that I got when I had my 2016 F250 with 6.2L. The receiver on that truck was 2" only, so that's what I got. Works well with the 16' flatbed trailer and what I can haul on it.
But when I traded that truck last August on the 2019 F250 6.7L, it has the 2.5" receiver with 2" adapter sleeve. So, along came a 8.5'W x 20'L x 6.5'H enclosed trailer that is much heavier. Thus a B&W Tow & Stow 2.5" shank.
Now I have a 2022 F350 Heavy Towing package on order that should come with 3" receiver. Will I replace everything with 3"? Doubtful, unless I get an even bigger trailer, but then I'll probably go with a gooseneck.
Ratings aside, here's my reason for preferring the 2.5" shank. Not having to deal with the adapters. I have different things that go into my receiver. Small trailer hitch, WDH hitch, bicycle rack, and motorcycle carrier. The more I take those things in and out, the more chance I have to forget the adapter. I've already lost one adapter that I forgot to remove. It likely joined the other dozen or I've seen on the freeway on my commute to work. They really are easy to forget to remove from the receiver. I now keep an extra one in the garage, just in case I lost the last one I used.
Some may say to tack weld it to the shank. This is not a good idea, since the heat affected zone creates a stress riser. Sure, you could bond it with something like JB weld. But, I use the items mentioned above in other applications that are only 2", so I don't want anything permanent, other than my WDH, which is only used on this truck, and it only ever needs to be 2.5".
I do think I like the idea of the 2.5" better the more I think about it.I didn't really have the issue of losing adapters,as I only used it for my 2-2.5" WDH.As well,another reason I never lost my adapter...wait for it....I welded it on.....eek!
Originally Posted by ScotD82
Have you considered finding your ideal hitch system, then swapping the shank? I noticed E-Trailer sells the Equalizer 1400lb system with the shank sold separately. I’m not saying this is your ideal hitch, but it seems like another good option. I’d be worried about having a harsh connection with the 1600lb bars if your loaded tongue weight didn’t increase a couple hundred pounds over the brochure weight.
I have.Of course the question is as always,not money...but money.I could bite the bullet and buy an extra 2.5" shank,but then do I want to just go ahead and get the 20k/2k Blue Ox?And as you and I said....would that 2k bar be too harsh?
Based on my own research I would say you are best to try an match the WDH specs as close as possible to what your towing (with some head space built in) So my TT is roughly 7500 lbs loaded. So tongue weight is somewhere in the vacinity of 800lbs. I am running the Equilizer WDH at the 1000/10000 configuration. Which I believe to be just about ideal for my application.. that being said I also hemmed and hawed at getting a 2.5" shank to replace the 2" on there right now. I've towed a few times now with the reducer.. I haven't noticed any excessive noises or clunking. Actually none in fact.. Yes it's a bit of a PITA when trying to line it up. What I did temporarily was wrapped electrical tape around the shank where I needed the reducer to stop. This actually worked quite well for a Micky mouse fix.. So far I've had no I'll effect s of running a reducer. I think long term it would be worth swapping it out for a 2.5" shank and be done with it ...my 2c
This would be simpler,except for the idea that my tongue weight would vary due to it being a toy hauler and my loads would change depending on what I am hauling.In theory I wouldn't want to exceed my truck tongue weight cap. of 1500 lbs.-which I probably wouldn't-thus I'm feeling around a 1600 lb WDH max would work.
I just did a swap this week from an older style 2” WDH that used the chain type bars to an Equalizer 16k friction bar type with 2-1/2”. I also ordered the 1/4” plastic friction plates that are supposed to cut down on noise.
My trailer is an enclosed car hauler that I built living quarters in the nose. Depending on car being hauled and items in front I am between 12k and 14k loaded. I have not done a long haul yet but will be doing 2400 miles next week.
There is a BIG difference between these two types of hitches. The old hitch towed fine but I knew I was over the weight for that one. The new hitch is harder to hook-up but it really does move the weight forward.
Now, I am waiting on the new F-350 with 12,400# capacity. The ‘16 F-250 pulls fine but is maxed out plus a little.
This is good to hear.I'm kinda thinking an Equalizer might be more practical,based on weight choice,and then just find a compatible 2.5" shank.I'd really be curious as to experiences with the noise difference with and w/o the sliders.
My moto has always been: I would rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it.
I have a 2" shank WDH with chain bars that I got when I had my 2016 F250 with 6.2L. The receiver on that truck was 2" only, so that's what I got. Works well with the 16' flatbed trailer and what I can haul on it.
But when I traded that truck last August on the 2019 F250 6.7L, it has the 2.5" receiver with 2" adapter sleeve. So, along came a 8.5'W x 20'L x 6.5'H enclosed trailer that is much heavier. Thus a B&W Tow & Stow 2.5" shank.
Now I have a 2022 F350 Heavy Towing package on order that should come with 3" receiver. Will I replace everything with 3"? Doubtful, unless I get an even bigger trailer, but then I'll probably go with a gooseneck.
I looked on their site,but I couldn't find just a 2.5" shank that is compatible with a WDH?
1K/10K Equalizer E2 with a welded sleeve and hitch clamp. I already had the hitch for my F150 when I upgraded to the F250. In addition to the visible welds there are plug welds top and bottom that have been ground smooth. I pull a 9,500 pound trailer and I get zero movement from the hitch.
For the Label View shot below, I inadvertently switched the side by side order around of the two shanks opposite of that of the Top View photo above...
Label View:
Spring Bars: (Trunion type)
1,200 lb. pair, 1,500 lb pair, 1,700 lb pair
Above 2" and 2.5" shanks and spring bars are used with the Reese Dual Cam WD & Anti Sway hitch system:
Comparing the first and second generation cam arms:
I loaded the trailer today for our trip out west. Here are the weights I ended up with for now. Still have to add probably another 500 pounds, mostly in front of trailer. So that will add to tongue weight and truck rear axle.
I am using an Equalizer 16k/1600 tongue WDH w/2-1/2” shank. My tires are rated 7,500# per axle.
This is good to hear.I'm kinda thinking an Equalizer might be more practical,based on weight choice,and then just find a compatible 2.5" shank.I'd really be curious as to experiences with the noise difference with and w/o the sliders.
OK, just finished a cross-country trip towing a 12k trailer with about 1400# tongue weight using the Equalizer 16k WDH. I used the plastic inserts so it was not metal on metal.
I did not notice any real noise using the hitch. Yes, in a hard low speed turn you can hear a pop or two but nothing excessive. Really no more than the chain type WDH I was using before this upgrade. I would not hesitate to buy this hitch. Hope this helps.
