Hello, my slave cylinder was leaking and left me stranded once to much so I went ahead and got a new heavy duty master and slave assembly, the old one came out without too much fuss but this new slave cylinder has had me beating my head against a wall. I've tried prying it into place but I cannot get the ball end of the cylinder rod into the cup onto the clutch lever. It seems that ball end is an inch or so shy of getting into that cupped spot. I've also tried pulling the clutch lever back with a ratchet strap but that didn't seem to do anything. To top it off I was trying to compress the cylinder rod and the plastic holder popped off. So any suggestions would be greatly appreciated on how to get that plastic back on or how to slip the clutch slave cylinder place would be awesome, thanks!

 

Luke I think we all have been though fighting the dang Slave Cylinder.
I went through this on my 86 with the T-19 Trans, same set up as the 5-spd.

Did the plastic clip break on that one side, or just come off?
Can`t tell from the picture.
If it came off, push the rod against something hard to push it in, and then
with your third hand ....stick it back in the slot.
If the strap broke, you are kind of screwed and will have to fight it.
I have never come across some one selling new one`s.

It`s a couple years since I went through this, thinking back on it, I remember
getting the air out of the system was a fight. I did remove the Slave from the
plastic line, and placed the end of the slave in a container. Think it was a cut
off water bottle. Pushed the rod in slowly to purge the bubbles several times.

Wipe off the Clutch Fluid mess. Then push the rod against the Shift Fork and
pop on the Clip. Put the plastic line on and Roll Pin to secure the line.
If you push the rod in and out, you will get air in the Slave and have to repurge it.

I did some Googling and here is a good set of pictures and explanation from
Diesel Hub. Hope this helps.
https://www.dieselhub.com/maintenanc...ter-slave.html


Charlie

 

Thanks Charlie, thankfully the clip didn't break so I'll go see about pushing it back on. I was looking at those pictures previously but I guess I just underestimated the amount of pushing needed to get it into place on the transmission. That's a great idea to just push the ball end into place while sliding, I've been trying to pry that down.

 

Well after much cursing and fussing I was able to get it on but it doesn't look right, the clutch arm seemed to slip out half an inch when I was trying to move it back to slide in the slave cylinder. Did I completely screw this up? This job has been beating the crap out of me and I would like to be done with it.

Looking at the picture I'm thinking theres no way this could be right, I still haven't hooked up the master cylinder so it wouldn't be a complete loss but a big pain.

 

Looks to me like the clutch arm, as you called it, moved and you have to start over.
If you loosen the bleed screw, it will be easier to slide the rod back in, yes some fluid will come out. I can't remember how I used to do it... I think I put the rod in place first, then slid the rest of the cylinder in place. That way you can push on the cylinder to compress it some.

 

Thanks tecgod13, I definitely will be taking some pressure off with that bleed screw, hopefully it doesn't let too much air in. That clutch fork is tricky to move around, hopefully I can get it back into position.

 

The Fork slides onto the TO Bearing, and then the clip on the back side pushes onto the Pivot Ball.
I don`t think you can get it on w/o removing the Slave Cylinder from the Bell Housing.
When you loosen the Bleed Screw to push the Rod in to connect the zip tie, don`t let the Rod come
out with the BS open, or you will suck in some air.

When you get the Fork back in position, and finally get the Slave clipped on, the rod should be in a
straight line with the Slave Cyl. Not cocked to one side. They are a PITA to finally get lined up....
especially when the Zip Tie thing breaks.

Probably 3 years ago I was 23 miles from home when the clutch decided to give up. I knew I was on
borrowed time with it, but procrastinated too long.
Called the shop I use and buy tires from, was closing time, but he waited for me to get there. Don`t know
what brand etc... Clutch they put in. 20K miles later was getting this chirp chirp sound. Finally figured out
it was the Throw out bearing.
Dropped the tranny, and the TO bearing was about ready to fall apart. The part that spins was all wobbly.
Put in another one, and some miles Down the road, same thing. I got to thinking maybe the Rod was too
long, and putting pressure on it,so I cut off maybe 1/8". So far it has been OK.

So I know what you are going through getting the damn Slave on.


Charlie

 

Currently sharing your pain. I pre-filled the Slave and used a hand clamp project holder tool to compress the piston in. A giant clamp was too bulky underneath the truck. I could not get enough play out of the clip to push the rod against the clutch arm and then get the clip on. My Ford manual CD for some reason is denying access now so I had to rely on the brief instructions in the Haynes manual. I have virtually no pedal right now but it is all hooked up and hopefully I get a buddy over to help me try to bleed the slave this weekend.

 

Thanks for the link. I have to redo and leave the plastic cup on the end of the pushrod. Ha.

 

Update, I did the clutch pedal assembly repair which was the real problem . The plastic bush for the pedal assembly was toast and the round hole in the pot metal was now an oval. I made a bushing with some sanding and filing and filled in the gap with JB weld. Works great. While I was at it I did the clutch pushrod mod to eliminate that plastic bushing as well. Truck shifts perfectly now. Only problem is I fubard the speedo cable with improper routing behind the dash so I ordered a new one as well as a speed sensor. My cable underneath the truck was in bad shape as well from time and elements and the wire harness had some much grease on it that I could not see that I had bare wires at the ends near the connectors. Repairs never stop with this truck but I see the finish line.