carb problems?
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Gettysburg PA
carb problems?
Hey. I am having a problem with my 67 352. The carb(acording to the previous owner) was rebuilt. It seems to be flooding it self. When I try to start it, it wont start for a very long time, I just sit there and turn it over. cold or hot it does this. Even if I dont touch the gas and regardless of where I leave the choke. after it turns over for a while I can smell fuel, like I just pumped the snot out of it or something. also when it finally does start it has hardly any power and sputters and coughs and farts (sounds like the 'farts' are coming through the carb. The carb is a two barrel, it looks stock. It does eventually start every time, but not until I have nearly run the battery dead and harbored thoughts of trading it in for a chevy(you can see how frustrated I am getting) Because inevetably some one will walk up every time and say"wont start huh?" No I just unhooked the coil wire so I could listen to it turn over, beautiful sound huh? Heres your sign. By the way whats the timeing supposed to be? (pardon the basic questions but I am still hunting a repair manual)
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,447
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From: Littleton, CO
The first thing you will truly need to determine is if there is too much or too little fuel. If you pump the peddle a few times and then crank it over, does it want to fire up. Could it take a long time to start because there is too little fuel and it is finally "pumping up" after long cranking sessions?
Pull the air cleaner and give it a go. Before doing any cranking, take a look into the carb and manually (with the engine off of course) work the throttle. There should be a slight squirt of fuel into the throat when you give it the gas. If there is, you should be getting enough to start, if not, then you will need to adjust your floats or the accelerator (sp?) pump.
Welcome aboard and let us know how this goes, we'll gladly dump ideas on you.
-Mike G
Pull the air cleaner and give it a go. Before doing any cranking, take a look into the carb and manually (with the engine off of course) work the throttle. There should be a slight squirt of fuel into the throat when you give it the gas. If there is, you should be getting enough to start, if not, then you will need to adjust your floats or the accelerator (sp?) pump.
Welcome aboard and let us know how this goes, we'll gladly dump ideas on you.
-Mike G
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Gettysburg PA
When I get under the hood and pull back on the throttle I can hear and smell the fuel going into the carb. I once made the mistake of crawling up on the fender and looking down into the carb before I slipped and nearly cut myself in half on the radiator and its support I could acually see gas going in.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 193
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From: BC, Canada
First off check the idle mixture screws. Lightly seated and 2-2.5 turns out should get it started with no major problems. Next check your choke adjustment.
One of the most common mistakes when rebuilding an Autolite 2100 is neglecting to seat the float retention clip. It should clip into a groove on the back of the needle housing. You'll have to remove the airhorn to see this, but it will be obvious if it's not installed correctly.
My guess would be a float problem, whether incorrectly adjusted or a leaky float. Your systems all point to a flooding condition.
One of the most common mistakes when rebuilding an Autolite 2100 is neglecting to seat the float retention clip. It should clip into a groove on the back of the needle housing. You'll have to remove the airhorn to see this, but it will be obvious if it's not installed correctly.
My guess would be a float problem, whether incorrectly adjusted or a leaky float. Your systems all point to a flooding condition.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Gettysburg PA
not the carb?
OK I just replaced the carb with a rebuilt holly. It is still doing the same thing, although I dont really notice a gas smell now. It still sputters and coughs through the carb. And if you give it gas it wants to stall so you have to feather it down to keep from stalling. Could be timing? vaccuum? points? I have replaced the air and fuel filters. I visually inspected the points, cap, rotor they dont look worn, maybe point out of adjustment? the carb book that came with the it says it came pre adjusted from the factory.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2003
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Sounds like timing to me. My dist is curved so I can run it at 16 degrees initial with no vac advance. It maxes at around 36 degrees. You should be able to run 8-10 degrees with no prob. Check whether you're vac advance is hooked up to ported vacuum.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Gettysburg PA
I bought this truck about a month ago, so I am just learning about it and its workings. The distributor is turned where the vaccuum advance( I am asumming that the tumor sticking off of the dist. is the vac advance) is up against the manifold, it wont go any further. is this to far? I will tell you i am a product of my generation, I can run rings around fuel injection and computer controled vehicals, but get me on an older one( which in my opinion are usally the best) And I get lost on carbs and some other things. So what should the timing be? 10? How would I check to see if its a vac problem? Roy
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Tumwater, Wa
Well, the only way you are going to know if it is too advanced is to put a timing light on it and see where it is at. If the vac can is against the water neck (pass) side of the manifold, that would indicate that is is too far advanced to me, anless the dist is off a tooth. (retarded) *usually*, the vac can is positioned so that the "nipple" is inline with the center of the truck, pointed towrds the front. 10-12 intial should be fine. Backfireing ("farting") throught the carb usually indicates too advanced timing, or too lean of a mixture, resulted from a failed or mis adjusted accellerator pump.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Gettysburg PA
The 'one tooth off' theory is plausible, but let me run this by you; I just got this truck a month ago, the guy i bought it from(My uncle) said the only problem he had was sometimes when the engine was warmed up it would be hard to start. so he thought vapor lock. well it does it all the time now, hot or cold. anyway the point being; it has gotten progressivly worse over the past couple of weeks. If the dist. was a tooth off wouldnt it have been that way from the start? could it be the vaccuum? Like I said I think it's odd that the vac advance to be laying up against the manifold like it is. Anyway I tried backing it off( the timing) and it still would not start. I will put a gun on it( Theres a thought) And check the timeing and see where I stand. Just think its odd that it has degraded to this point when if its the timeing it should have ben bad from the beginning
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: peoria, az
Sounds to me like your points are worn out or you have a bad coil. It also sounds like your dist is turned too far. I'd start at square 1. Pull your #1 plug and turnit over until you are at TDC ( stick your finger in the hole and feel for compression, then turntil marks line up)Pull the cap and see where you stand. Pull the dist if ness and set it so that it lines up with #1 with the adv pointing forward. Next, check your dwell. Then, check your timing. Set it 8-10 BTDC. Let us know what happens after that.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Gettysburg PA
well I pulled the dist. and took it over one tooth. It helped immensly! however it still runs a little rough I am going to replace points and plugs. the plugs have a black carbon build up on them it has been running rich. Can the timeing being advanced cause a rich fuel problem? anyway my timeing light wouldnt work when I put it on there so I am going to get another one and check where I am at. I timed it by ear for now. anything else I can check?
