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I recently had the priviledge of removing and inspecting an E4OD transmission and transfer case. HA!HA! Upon inspection, I could still read the serial numbers on the clutches. What prompted the tear down was no automatic shifting, but could manually shift into 1 and 2 and reverse. So now I am really confused since all the talk on this forum and the problems E4OD's have had. I just inspected all the parts, including the center support for wear. I used a craftsman atv lift to remove and install the trans. While it was out replaced the rear main and pan gasket. When it came time to remove and install the center suport I used a valve spring compressor, a flat bar with holes drilled in the center and outer edges that fit against the pump to case bolt area. Now the unusual part was using a paint can lid to press against the support to remove the snap ring. Living on a fixed income will create unusual solutions to expensive tools. Also, when it came time to reinstall the complete drum assembly back into the tranny, I lifted the rear of the case and intalled them vertically. Once again the tool to intall this drum assembly was around $100. I replaced to shift solenoid pack and manual lever position sensor. I have made this sound rather simple, but it was not without its headaches. If you choose to install a shift kit which includes the springs and valve that raise line pressure in the pump. PLEASE use the torque converter to align the pump halves as well as inserting the input shaft for proper alignment. Otherwise you will leave a trail of leaking trans fluid on you first test drive. When I realized what I did wrong (pump alignment) I tried to remove the pump, and forgot to remove the trans filter. it broke the filter ($%@&). Lucky nothing else did. I did all this with only an ATSG service book! My Bronco is now rolling and I have a new confidence in my abilities. Happy Boncoing
hey R8R you want to take a trip down to the deep south and take a crack at my 91 e4od? just before some shop charges me way too much money. no really congrats on your new found confidence. do you have any pointers on just changeing the torque converter?
Hey so b it, make sure you unbolt the tc before you remove the starter. If you can use an atv lift, it is a lot more stable than a jack. Instead of moveing the jack back to remove the tc, push the truck forward while lowering the lift. This process will save a lot of headache in trying to line the trans up again. Do not use the bolts to pull up the trans. How are you sure you need a tc. Does the lock up not work or what? A simple test for lock up is when it is in high gear, tap the brake lightly and look at the rpm. it should rise 100 to 200 rpm's. Hope this helps, feel free to ask any other questions.
Being lazy, I didn't want to remove the transfer case (as per factory manual), which is doable.
I removed the transmission crossmember, and when I re-installed the trans, the offset weight of the transfer case caused the trans to be out of alignment with the engine. I bolted the crossmember onto the trans and used it as a "tool" to twist the trans back into alignment with the engine.
I used a Torco converter, and highly recommend it to anyone. It is the best deal I could find on the internet, and for $275, which included a billet cover and heavy duty clutches, seemed a much better deal than the rebuilds you pay almost as much for at the parts store.
Also, this converter has a lower stall speed which combined with the heavy duty lock up clutch has given me 1 to 1.5 extra miles per gallon.
i gotta question for ya r8r man, when my OD kicks in and i give it gas it likes to buck a little bit before it will downshift, could this be the shift solenoid pack or something else, no codes. also when i let off the brake and i gas the engine to 2000 rpms the rpms hold while the speed increases, does that mean the tc is slipping.thanks for the help.
You guys, the e4od is an electronic controlled tranny. PULL CODES if the tranny is acting up. there is a spot specific for this similar to pulling codes for engine problems.
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