I have an issue so I have a 2017 f250 6.7 powerstroke best on the plant 4x4. I was getting death wobble so turns out all my steering linkage except the drag link had slop. I replaced all those along with new castor shims and a dual steering stabilizer. I took it in for an alignment and though all was good while on every bump with either both front tires at the same time the left or the right im getting steering wheel movement. I do know that bump steer is normal on these but should be minimal. My question is im thinking the toe is set to much out causing the bump steer.

 

How did you get so much caster? Thats the only thing that looks out of spec. You have some toe in, that is good.

 

They put in a castor bushing I have the old bushings and am wondering if I should put those back in they didn't give me a print out of what the castor was before the new bushing.

 

I'm surprised they sent you on your way out of spec like that. It would be nice to know what degree bushings they used.

4-5 degrees of caster seems to be whats commonly recommended on here. I'm not so sure that exceeding that is necessarily a good thing. I expect others will post up with more detailed explanations and advice for you.

 

I just got under the truck and looked they used 2.3 degree on driver side and 2.6 degree on passanger side.

 

I'll beat the dead horse here...

Increased caster will give you more straight line stability. Too much can actually cause death wobble, but 4 or 5 isn't enough to create it. Ford has a lighter spec because they want light steering. If they set it to 4 or 5, a lot of people would complain it doesn't steer like their civic...

You currently have toe in. .1 degree define wheel is about 1/8" in if you measured at the end of a 34" tire. Your toe is fine...

Honestly, a dual stabilizer is unnescecary and is probably causing more problems than what you're trying to fix. You only need one stiffer than stock one, mounted at the drag link.. the reason you want it at the drag link is because that's what you notice, its connected to your steering wheel.

There will always be a slight amount of road feedback. Every car will have the steering wheel move when hitting a bump. You want that,, you want some give in your system when you hit something..

There will also be a very slight difference in arc travels between the panhard and the drag link. If you put dual stabilizers on the tie rod, and you hit a bump, you will introduce steering feedback. You'll be driving in a straight line, but you'll feel it I. The steering wheel. So what do you want, for your wheels to not give on a bump and travel in a straight line, or for your steering wheel to not move as much and let the tires do what they will?

Main thing is make sure all your hardware it tight and the bushings are in good shape. Especially the panhard. That bolt needs a lot of torque to stay put. Also make a habit of not steering the wheel at all unless your wheels are rolling. Turning with the wheels stopped puts a tremendous load on everything and will wear everything out quick.

There's my 2 cents. I've only posted about this same topic several times this week...

 

That's all I needed to hear then the bushing on the track bar or panhard bar are new. When I had the death wobble situation a few months back the ball joint had a slight bit of play. The truck drives great just when hitting the bumps it moves the steering wheel other wise truck seems to track straight unless on an extreme crown it will pulls lightly to right or left what ever side the crown is on. I have some 19 f250s at work their snow plow trucks and there is some movement but mine seemed a little worse. I just hadn't been able to find anything online about this topic. So in your experience is the castor that's on the truck to much or fine.

 

That's a pretty common choice for a lifted application. Do you have a lift?

Plenty of information to absorb from the post above, although I can't tell if he is saying that your caster spec being near and above 6 degrees is "fine". Maybe he is just saying that caster won't contribute to the steering feedback you are experiencing? Hopefully he can elaborate for you.

I am assuming you made the thread because the amount of movement in your steering wheel over bumps has changed, worsened. The dual stabilizers should have helped, not made it worse compared to the factory single. Checking torque of all the new components is a great idea. I would look into what the effects of too much caster are also.

 

No I was gonna put a leveling kit but the tires I wanted fit on the truck. So I'm not to sure I just told them I wanted more castor then factory.

 

Are you on the higher end of what would be the norm?? Sure, but if you're not experiencing any shake or shimmy in a straight line just leave it. Caster just increases straight line stability, but too much can induce a shake/death wobble. It will also give you slightly more tire wear on the edges, since when you turn the tire will angle in or out. If you're happy with how it steers and how it tracks down the highway, just leave it. If its too planted and a bear to steer, then take out a degree.

Again, the dual stabilizer is really unnescecary, and you really only need one and it should be at the drag link, not the tie rod. You're trying to dampen movement at the steering wheel so you don't feel it, not at the wheels. I dont know if you're expecting the steering wheel to not move at all when you hit a bump but it should. Tell me any vehicle out there that you don't have any movement hitting a bump (and those are rack and pinion which have even less movement)

 

That's what I thought it should be fine no ware or anything that I have noticed. I agree some movement I just thought mine was a little excessive thats all. Thank you for you help just wanted to see if there was something I was over looking. My 04 250 is straight as an arrow with almost no steering wheel movement.

 

Does this seem like alot of feedback or is this normal. The truck is stock just bigger tires and 17 f250.

 

Factory stabilizer? A lot of them (even without a leak) have an air bubble inside that the first .5" or so of movement is undampened..

Throw on a bilstien or a fox in the stock location. I bet it goes away...

 

In the OP he said a dual stabilizer was installed.

 

I'll go back to my original statement. A dual isn't needed. I bet this is where his movement comes from since you're trying to lock the wheels straight at the axle, and not the steering wheel... any movement between the axle and the steering is amplified.

Unbolt the dual stab completely and run just one...