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Yeah...if you are going to go through the trouble and expense of fooling with the front diff...don't waste your money on the OEM friction clutch. There are MUCH better options out there.
Since I am putting a compressor on the truck, I had considered ARB, but they do not make their air locker to fit the Dana Super Duty front differential.
Lockers are good for crawling, slow technical stuff. Lockers on your Steer Wheels can quickly get you into trouble on slick surfaces. I've found a good Limited Slip is better at speed, in Snow and Slick Roads.
What are you trying to do with the truck? The front LSD on the Tremor is a pretty loose clutch that needs some help from the computer controlled individual wheel braking to get it to do much of anything if a tire lifts off the ground, works decent for the casual off roader. For solid all around use I would do a torsen, or an ARB for more extreme use.
As mentioned above by killer, the best all around choice for a front diff traction aid is the True Trac torque biasing, gear driven limited slip.
They are fully transparent in delivering drive traction to the wheel with the MOST traction, not the LEAST like clutch type limited slips, and go to full soft lock across if detecting no difference in side to side resistance.
If you have 4.30's you must use the True Trac designed for Ford-Dana 60/ Advantek M256, with 4.10 gears.
The one on the right is the 4.10 geared True Trac for the front diff in my Dodge Cummins and SD F-350.
The left one went on the front D-30 axle of my 1999 XJ.
The good news is these are about the cheapest, most transparent, and most reliable limited slip on the market and are simply best on the front axle as there are no steering issues. They have the fewest moving parts. Long track record. One of the very few that will fit on an Advantek M256 axle. It is a Torsen type set up.
I used them on the front Dana 60 and rear Dana 80 on my 2001 Dodge Cummins H.O. 6-speed manual carrying a truck camper over some pretty awful real estate.
I've used Trac Loks (off-roaders call them "Trash Locks") over and over with dismal success. The wet clutches wear out relatively fast, even with frequent fish oil changes and, in my experience don't last more that 60K miles on a turning (non-free wheeling) drive axle before they're done. Some have had good experiences with the TL. I'm not one of them.
jefe
As a sidebar, it might be good to have some basic info about the latest F-350 axles.
F-250's may have the Sterling rear axle, and DRW F-350's have the M300 rear axle, but all Super Duties use an M256 front drive axle.
This is a big upgrade for the front axle.
Know that the M256 is a defacto much strengthened Super Sixty used universally on F series trucks up to F-550.
F-350 FRONT DRIVE AXLE
Dana M256 Advantek, aka: “super 60”
3.75” O.D. axle tubes
35 spline axle shafts
short reverse open differential
larger 28 spline pinion
ring gear diameter: 10 in./256mm
automatic/manual front locking hubs
F-350, SRW, REAR DRIVE AXLE
electric locking Dana M275 Advantek differential
As a sidebar, it might be good to have some basic info about the latest F-350 axles.
F-250's may have the Sterling rear axle, and DRW F-350's have the M300 rear axle, but all Super Duties use an M256 front drive axle.
This is a big upgrade for the front axle.
Know that the M256 is a defacto much strengthened Super Sixty used universally on F series trucks up to F-550.
F-350 FRONT DRIVE AXLE
Dana M256 Advantek, aka: “super 60”
3.75” O.D. axle tubes
35 spline axle shafts
short reverse open differential
larger 28 spline pinion
ring gear diameter: 10 in./256mm
automatic/manual front locking hubs
F-350, SRW, REAR DRIVE AXLE
electric locking Dana M275 Advantek differential
1.53 inch, 36 spline axle shafts
ring gear diameter: 10.8 inches/275mm
My F350 6.7 CCLB has the electronic locking 3.31 rear differential. I am not going to be plowing with the vehicle, but I am going to be off road in potentially soft areas. The locker type front differential may be best to get out soft area, but is not conducive to steering on slippery roads.
What does a Truetrac sacrifice in traction compared to a full locker (electronic or air)? Also, any fuel mileage difference between the two in everyday on-road driving?
The only downside is that it is not a 100% locking diff. But that's also an upside for steering and transparency.
The point is moot, however as you'll have a hard time getting anything other than a TracLok or TrueTrac to fit. Aftermarket has not caught up yet.
I find it almost impossible on level ground to spin any tire at all with True Tracs. They are very tenacious.
The only time you need a true locking diff on the front axle is if you are rock crawling or get your axle twisted up and a front wheel off the ground, which is almost impossible with the weight of a full size diesel pickup...unless you are really hard core. Then you don't need my advice.
One last thing: I'm not sure they make the TrueTrac for 3.31's. Check it out.
jefe