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I'm puzzled by the difference between long bed and short bed Flareside (step) boxes. The long beds are wider by about 5", and have inner wheel wells to clear the tires. Why? Does anyone know the purpose of the wider bed, and why a narrow long bed box wouldn't work? They all use the same rear end AFAIK, so there's no difference there. The only thing I can think of is to lend some lateral support to the longer sides. Seems like a lot of extra tooling cost for Ford, though. I'm getting ready to scratch-build a long bed, and would like to figure this out. I have found aftermarket wheel wells that I could add if I decide to build the wider box, but I kind of prefer the straight sides without wheel wells. Thoughts?
I think your guess that they needed the extra rigidity is probably close to the truth. Plus, it gave them some extra cargo space to brag about in the brochures.
There is a member in the 80 - 86 truck area (link from another site he also posts on) that made his own flare side side panels, SB only on our trucks, that should have the wheel "bumps" but he made his with out them.
If you do the same you just have to make sure the inside of the wheels clear the bed side panels and why they are there.
He side the wheels clear and with the fenders bolted on the panels are stiff and will not flex.
There are some pages before this link and many after so you can see how he did it. Projects - 1980 F150 4x4 Flareside Project | Page 29
If I found a 80-86 LB truck less bed I would like to try and make a long bed flare side just to be different.
FYI I am using a LB style side ribbed bed floor cut down to fit on my 81 Flare Side and bolted the bed side to the floor like the factory did to the wood.
When you have a good ribbed floor to use and no money to make the wood one you do what you got to do.
I would like to see what you come up with for your bed keep us posted.
Dave ----
I could use the floor out of my existing bed, but the bed is in too good a condition to cut up. I can sell it to another enthusiast. I'm still debating about whether I want the wider bed or narrower. It will cost me more to go wider- I have to buy/make the wheel wells, and a bit more wood for the floor. The tires on a 3/4 ton are somewhat heftier, so they aren't as well covered by the rear fenders if I don't go 54" wide. There must be a GOOD reason why Ford made the LB that way, though.
So if the beds are WIDER on the longbed versions, wouldnt that push the bedsides out over the rear wheels more (hence the need for the wheelwells?)
I thought you were going to fabricate your own longbed box. You could certainly make it the same width as a shortbed box without the wheelwells, right?
Ford simply made the longbed boxes longer/ wider for more cargo space.
Yes, widening the box requires wheel wells. I'm going to have a sheet metal shop bend the sides. I'd have to make or buy wheel wells, and then add them. I can buy nice looking ones the exact right depth for $330/pair. If I go narrow, that would be a few bucks (and work) saved. Ford made the long boxes in one piece, with the wheel wells formed right into the sides. That's why nobody makes repros- a lot of tooling cost for a tiny potential sales pool. Long bed Flaresides are pretty rare. Since my truck is an F-250, the stock tires are somewhat bigger than a 1/2 ton, so the fender coverage isn't as good. Going wide bed takes care of that problem. Decisions, decisions.
I'll be following with interest. I have a 1970 Camper Special frame with front discs that I want to build, and I should be getting the front end of a 69 F350 dump truck as a donor body (and drivetrain, possibly). I REALLY want to be different and put a Flareside bed on it (I mean, it's not every day you see a Camper Special Flare Side, LOL!!!). I've got access to metal equipment (my dad was a sheet metal worker), and the thought of making my own bed sides interests me.
I'll have to post pics once I get started. My truck is a '72 Camper Special. I like the old-school, stripped down stock look. I have a painted steel '68 grille and painted bumpers. I removed all of the trim, which the truck had a lot of. I have a fresh 300 six and C6 tranny to replace the tired 360. I built a '70 F100 into a Flareside years ago. It started out as a long bed, so I cut the frame to make a short bed out of it. I had a sheet metal shop make the major bed parts for me. To make the roll top on the bed sides, I welded tubing to the top edge. I made my own crossmembers out of 3" channel iron. On that one, I used fiberglass rear fenders.
For my current truck, I have a set of steel rear fenders, and the very rare steps that go in front of them. I've thought about pulling molds off of them to make fiberglass repro steps to sell. As far as I know, no one makes repro steps, either short or long. I'm sure a good metal man could make them from scratch, but it would be a lot of work.
Do the flares interchange? Just a question as i've only ever seen one of those LB flaresides YEARS ago. Then you could build a super wide bed to fit some big tires. Now THAT would be different.
By flares, do you mean the fenders? They're the same on either bed length. The main differences between LB and SB are the sides, with the built-in wheel wells, the bed front, tail gate, and various crossmembers.
In searching more about this, I found a guy who made his own wheel wells by taking a trailer fender, splitting it in two, and welding a cover over the opening to create a solid wheel well. More work, but much cheaper than buying the ready-made one. Being retired, I have way more time than money, so if I make the wider body, I'll make my own wheel wells using that method. I saw a fender at Tractor Supply that would be perfect. I have a usable tailgate for the wider LB, so using that saves me about $400 over buying a repro tailgate.
Oddly enough, one of the things I like about the narrower bed without the wheels wells is that it's much easier to clean out after hauling stuff like mulch. This will be a working truck. After it's on the road and all dialed in, I'll sell my '95, and just use the '72. I haul compost and mulch frequently, and wheel wells are a pin to clean around when emptying the truck.
If the insides of the tires will clear the bed sides if they were flat then they could just be made from flat sheets.
Then you would not need to cut the wood to fit the wheel wells.
Here is a link (few pages) of the member that did just that, flat bed sides as the insides of the tires would clear them. Projects - 1980 F150 4x4 Flareside Project | Page 33
If you go back farther you can see how he made them.
I would do it the same way as he did but a long bed 80-86 truck that never was just to be different.
I do have a question on the long bed and / or short bed trucks running boards.
Did they have them like the 80-86 trucks do and if so how were they done on the long beds?
Dave ----
Cutting the wheel wells into the floor planks would be the easy part! If I make it wide, I have to buy/make wheel wells and install them into the flat sides. What makes me curious is WHY Ford made the long beds wider than the short beds. As I said, seems like a lot of extra work. I do see where the wheel wells would help lend 3D support to the flat sides. I dunno....
As for the side steps- The attachy to the bottom of the bed side extensions, and bolt to the front of the fenders. They have braces underneath that reach up and bolt to the subframe so they will actually support someone standing on them. The only difference in the side steps between SB and LB is the length of them. The short ones are rare;the long ones- unicorns. I happen to have a set of each.
As for the side steps- The attachy to the bottom of the bed side extensions, and bolt to the front of the fenders. They have braces underneath that reach up and bolt to the subframe so they will actually support someone standing on them. The only difference in the side steps between SB and LB is the length of them. The short ones are rare;the long ones- unicorns. I happen to have a set of each.
Ok so they are different between the LB & SB.
I was thinking if I do a 80-86 LB flare side I would have to make the running boards longer to fit.
Thanks
Dave ----
