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6.4L Power Stroke Diesel Engine fitted to 2008 - 2010 F250, F350 and F450 pickup trucks and F350 + Cab Chassis

High oil temp solutions?

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Old Apr 26, 2021 | 08:51 PM
  #1  
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High oil temp solutions?

I’ve got a 2010 F350 6.4 with 277k on it and after a long internal debate I’ve decided I want to dump some money into it to fix my oil temp issue and make it my tow pig.

just to give you guys an idea as to what temps it runs, today was 75° and it was running about 225° oil temp and 188° coolant temp after an hour of 70 mph cruising down the highway unloaded. It is tuned and deleted, I was on the 150 horse street tune and running conventional 15-40 Delo oil. I have had this issue for some time now

I suppose my big question is will the bulletproof diesel external oil cooler kit provide enough cooling to compensate for my seemingly completely plugged stock oil cooler? Or should I spread my cheeks and pay for a shop to fix it the right way?

Any advice is greatly appreciated, thanks
 
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Old May 2, 2021 | 08:02 AM
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These engines can't take abuse. Have it repaired right or it will cost more $$ in the long run. I wouldn't take a chance. Replace the oil cooler then if you still need additional cooling go for the aftermarket unit.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2021 | 09:34 AM
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Is the Bulletproof brand the only supplemental air/oil available? Does anyone have experience with the Bulletproof unit?
 
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Old Dec 20, 2021 | 02:13 PM
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Installed the Bulletproof half kit.

Oil temps cruising at 70mph (when I note the hottest temps.) unloaded went from 221* to 192* both in 85* ambient and high humidity. Coolant temp. 194* in both circumstances.
When stop go or sitting still didn't see 195*!

Next test towing; I used to see 229* with a 7,000 Lb. load at 65mph in 75* ambient which is what really started the worry as it was also on a mild night. Usual load is 9,000 lb. plus hauling about 300 lbs of gear in the truck. Landscape is dead flat except for bridges so we're not talking a lot of stress. I figured when summer hits and we're 107* heat index and 90% humidity oil temps when towing were going to go through the roof!
 
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Old Dec 20, 2021 | 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Fefanatic
These engines can't take abuse. Have it repaired right or it will cost more $$ in the long run. I wouldn't take a chance. Replace the oil cooler then if you still need additional cooling go for the aftermarket unit.
I've read multiple accounts of replacing the OE oil cooler only to have high temps. again, one within a month!!
 
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Old Dec 20, 2021 | 03:12 PM
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Are you still running the crap-tastic Ford gold coolant? If so the first step would be to do a cooling system flush with vc9 and vc9+ (fleetguard restore and restore + is the same and maybe easier to get, below is a pic of the restore product).
The whole flush process is time consuming and messy, but not overly expensive. And it stands a decent chance of fixing you high deltas issue.
If the deltas don't come down to within 10 degrees afterward, then you'll need to replace the stock oil cooler. Its a PIA to do, but can be done with the cab on in the driveway (it will require cursing and maybe some wrench throwing, but it can be done).
It'd also be a great idea to add a coolant filter (I like the ones diesel site sells, but there are plenty of options out there), this will help prevent a re-clog. Lastly, get the Ford gold far away, there are so many better options out there that don't drop silicates out of solution. Pick your favorite brand of red ELC coolant and go with that.

 
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Old Dec 20, 2021 | 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Antonm
Are you still running the crap-tastic Ford gold coolant? If so the first step would be to do a cooling system flush with vc9 and vc9+ (fleetguard restore and restore + is the same and maybe easier to get, below is a pic of the restore product).
The whole flush process is time consuming and messy, but not overly expensive. And it stands a decent chance of fixing you high deltas issue.
If the deltas don't come down to within 10 degrees afterward, then you'll need to replace the stock oil cooler. Its a PIA to do, but can be done with the cab on in the driveway (it will require cursing and maybe some wrench throwing, but it can be done).
It'd also be a great idea to add a coolant filter (I like the ones diesel site sells, but there are plenty of options out there), this will help prevent a re-clog. Lastly, get the Ford gold far away, there are so many better options out there that don't drop silicates out of solution. Pick your favorite brand of red ELC coolant and go with that.

See my post below about oil cooler and what I did to try to save it without replacement. The stuff doesn't work for a plugged cooler. You gotta bite the bullet and change it. I've said in the past that I don't believe in miracles in cans and I was right. The promises made aren't the promises kept.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2021 | 03:26 PM
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If its fully plugged, you are likely correct. The chemical can't get to it if there's no flow.

But if there is some flow where the chemical can get to it, they it can (as does) work. I brought deltas down from 20-ish to about five using the restore and restore +, on my 2008 F350. Put on a coolant filter, and drove the truck for another five years, sold it with the original oil cooler still in it and deltas still at about 5 unloaded and 10 when pulling 18K pounds. Worked for me, but my cooler obviously wasn't completely clogged. Still worth the $100 and days worth of effort. Even if it doesn't unplug the oil cooler, you'd be amazed at the nasty that comes out.
.
.
.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2021 | 04:19 PM
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Interesting how my solution revived a 8 month old thread haha.

As far as back flushing with the chemical products I read in another thread, "plan on replacing the OE cooler shortly thereafter". I'm sure that would ring true for my 14 year old unit and there's also my note above about those installing a new cooler only to plug it up again shortly thereafter. If going said route I also read to switch to Cat certified LC-1 coolant which doesn't have the silicates that settle out of solution and plug parts of the cooling system, so look into that. Doing so requires back flushing as well but I've read where other owners used Dawn with success and is probably much less aggressive.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2021 | 03:16 PM
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Soon after buying the truck I did a coolant flush with chemical and switched to cat ELC. put a coolant filter on it at the same time. A couple months ago I bought and installed the BPD external oil cooler and it made all the difference. Kind of a pain to install but well worth the money, couldn’t believe how much it dropped my temps.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2021 | 11:48 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by 2fifty
Soon after buying the truck I did a coolant flush with chemical and switched to cat ELC. put a coolant filter on it at the same time. A couple months ago I bought and installed the BPD external oil cooler and it made all the difference. Kind of a pain to install but well worth the money, couldn’t believe how much it dropped my temps.
What were your EOT's before and after the ELC switch?
 
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Old Dec 26, 2021 | 08:00 PM
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Switching to ELC made no discernible difference, I just did it to avoid further silicate buildup. It might help if your oil cooler is in better shape than mine, I’m certain there’s a restriction on the oil side of my stock cooler since the truck was ran with broken chunks of plastic from the oil filter pedestal. Went to change the oil for the very first time since I bought the truck and my heart dropped when I saw the carnage. I assume the dealership used the wrong cap and filter combo and crushed the thing to pieces.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2025 | 05:02 PM
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Trip report

Sorry it’s been awhile since the trip update. Excursion ran at 226. Hit 232 of going up a long hill. Hit 238 on a mountain pass. But was at 226 for 99% of the time.

fun fact. My fan clutch only engaged once. It did it for 30 seconds while in town.

went on our yearly Cooke city trip. Pulled a trailer through Yellowstone park to get there. Had to pull over on the way back due to high oil temps. It got hot. Fan clutch never engaged. tranny temps were fine.

so the entire time I’ve had the new fan clutch I’ve only heard it click on for 30 seconds and that’s it. Have a new one on the way to swap it out for being faulty.

will update on temps after I get the new clutch installed.

besides that the excursion was a pleasure to drive on the trip. Handles so well and is very comfy. Just love this thing.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2025 | 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Loganharpdawg
Sorry it’s been awhile since the trip update. Excursion ran at 226. Hit 232 of going up a long hill. Hit 238 on a mountain pass. But was at 226 for 99% of the time.

fun fact. My fan clutch only engaged once. It did it for 30 seconds while in town.

went on our yearly Cooke city trip. Pulled a trailer through Yellowstone park to get there. Had to pull over on the way back due to high oil temps. It got hot. Fan clutch never engaged. tranny temps were fine.

so the entire time I’ve had the new fan clutch I’ve only heard it click on for 30 seconds and that’s it. Have a new one on the way to swap it out for being faulty.

will update on temps after I get the new clutch installed.

besides that the excursion was a pleasure to drive on the trip. Handles so well and is very comfy. Just love this thing.
I think you replied in the wrong thread,,,in the wrong section of the forum too.

Considering this the the 6.4 section, an engine that was never put in an Excursion ( and I sure hope no one was ever dumb enough to go through the expense and effort to swap a 6.4 into an Excursion)

 
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