Break in oil vs ?
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Freshman User
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Break in oil vs ?
Ordered a 22 f350 7.3 a week ago and it'll be my first new vehicle. With the first 1k miles needed to be a limited experience with varying rpms and a lighter foot, has anyone ever used break in oils like Driven to better seat the rings? No matter what, I am planning on changing oil at 500 miles then drive another 5 or 600 and change it again.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26,007
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From: Brentwood,CA
Ordered a 22 f350 7.3 a week ago and it'll be my first new vehicle. With the first 1k miles needed to be a limited experience with varying rpms and a lighter foot, has anyone ever used break in oils like Driven to better seat the rings? No matter what, I am planning on changing oil at 500 miles then drive another 5 or 600 and change it again.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,937
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From: Southern Crescent
As stated above with this additional advice:
Never add any oil additives to engine oil. Ever. New or old engine. Most are just snake oil and the owners manual tells you not to.
I like to run the factory oil half the recommended mileage, much more than 500 - 1000 miles before 1st oil change.
Use a Ford approved semi-synthetic for the first 2 years, then change to a full synthetic after that if you really want to. This allows rings and bearings to fully seat.
I go to a high mileage oil about 80 - 90K and for the rest of the life of the truck. My 07 F150 with 205K gets Mobile 1 full synthetic high mileage formula. In theory the high mileage formula helps keep engine seals in good shape and does nothing for lubrication,
I have a church buddy who owns a huge oil change and service shop and these are his recommendations. Also supported by my own research and practice. In other words, it's my opinion.
Never add any oil additives to engine oil. Ever. New or old engine. Most are just snake oil and the owners manual tells you not to.
I like to run the factory oil half the recommended mileage, much more than 500 - 1000 miles before 1st oil change.
Use a Ford approved semi-synthetic for the first 2 years, then change to a full synthetic after that if you really want to. This allows rings and bearings to fully seat.
I go to a high mileage oil about 80 - 90K and for the rest of the life of the truck. My 07 F150 with 205K gets Mobile 1 full synthetic high mileage formula. In theory the high mileage formula helps keep engine seals in good shape and does nothing for lubrication,
I have a church buddy who owns a huge oil change and service shop and these are his recommendations. Also supported by my own research and practice. In other words, it's my opinion.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Long Island USA
This. The tolerances now are so tight that there's hardly any reason to leave a cross-hatch on the cylinder walls... if they even do it anymore.
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2020
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Yep, just use the factory recommended synthetic blend.
I didn't do the 1st oil change until I could finally read it on the dipstick which was 3K.
I didn't do the 1st oil change until I could finally read it on the dipstick which was 3K.
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 488
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From: Indianapolis
I do an early oil dump and filter change on all my new vehicles, then follow up with a used oil analysis. I picked up my 2021 7.3 March 29, just recently changed the oil at 1069 miles (did not reset OLM) and filled with Mobil 1 5w-40 (I use this oil in ALL my gas and diesel engines, small and large displacement). You can see in the attached report that my iron and copper was above average numbers for same engine with 5800 miles on it (universal average). I will dump again with 3000 miles on oil and send in a sample, then dump again at 3000-4000 miles and send in a sample. After that I will follow combination of OLM and what the reports tell me concerning wear metals and total base number, I am guessing that will be between 7500 and 10000 mile oil change intervals. Not sure if this is true or not, but I read that the OLM will tell you to change the oil in a period of 1 year even if you have only put 100 miles on the engine, that is not acceptable to me, so I will have to watch and learn here. Everyone has their own opinion, I have followed this practice for many years on many engines, but you only have to do what you think is right. Philip.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Brentwood,CA
Ford uses a long standing RA of 25 on the walls using 280 grit. This is still in use where moly rings are used.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Brentwood,CA
Even easier to actually cause wear acceleration. Most don't understand that every filter medium has a pre loading requirement. If you don't get initial loading then you cannot effectively remove the smaller particles. Couple this with dry starts and that new oil is known to have contamination above 15 microns and you are already at a loss. Gets worse if you are overly compulsive about changing air filters. Air filters are rated for peak efficiency after 20% loading, this is why filter capacity in grams is often given by the manufacturer.
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Freshman User
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While I'm sure Ford goes the extra mile during assembly of their motors, you still cant take things for granted anymore on a mass produced item. I agree additives ain't all that great and most do nothing. Regardless what fairy dust they sprinkle on each part, there will always be extra crud getting thrown around for the first 1k miles.of coarse ford, chevy or dodge wont tell you to change fluids early. That could possibly cut into their marketing and sales being their trucks lasting more time on the road. You know, why go buy a new truck if it ain't broken. Just my .02
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