59 f100 clutch problems
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Freshman User
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59 f100 clutch problems
Hello all. Installed new master clutch cylinder but had to take out again and return it as I could not get it to build any pressure so must of been bad. I tried bleeding over and over to no avail.
Installed old one again. Now after bleeding, pump pedal about three times and pedal stops half way down. I see the rod at slave cylinder pushing fork out, but gears won't go in.
If i crack bleeder valve at slave , pedal will go down.
It was fine before, and that's only last week. Reason for new one is that clutch would engage but after pumping once or twice.
Now, it just stops half way. Ideas, comments..? Please. I took a look see at tranny and noticed the throw out bearing is just loose in there at the pressure plate. Is that normal? Kind of new at this. Thanks in advance.
Installed old one again. Now after bleeding, pump pedal about three times and pedal stops half way down. I see the rod at slave cylinder pushing fork out, but gears won't go in.
If i crack bleeder valve at slave , pedal will go down.
It was fine before, and that's only last week. Reason for new one is that clutch would engage but after pumping once or twice.
Now, it just stops half way. Ideas, comments..? Please. I took a look see at tranny and noticed the throw out bearing is just loose in there at the pressure plate. Is that normal? Kind of new at this. Thanks in advance.
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Freshman User
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Thanks for reply. Would that cause the peddle to stop halfway? I experienced gear slippin while driving a while back, but after replacing slave cylinder, symptom disappeared. So lost. Thanks again.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2019
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From: California High Desert
If I remember right, I didn't bench bleed mine before installing. I cracked the bleeder and worked the push rod in and out until all the air was out. This is the slave cylinder. Think I pulled the master and bench bled it. Then bled it all after free play.
Last edited by JohnNewb; Apr 21, 2021 at 12:43 AM.
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Is that the rod being pushed by clutch pedal? So, lack of bleeding would result in stuck pedal? Thanks
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 1,388
Likes: 92
From: California High Desert
I was referring to the push rod that connects slave to throw out bearing arm. I am away from home and manual but think it is something like 1/4". If pedal stops but goes down with bleeder open you likely have air in system. Sorry if you already know this but someone has to press pedal down and hold it down while bleeder open. Otherwise when pedal goes up you suck air back in. Same as bleeding brakes.
Last edited by JohnNewb; Apr 22, 2021 at 09:02 AM.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: tujunga, calif
Quite a few years ago a friend purchased a 57 and went through the same situation, I went over to his house to see if I could help and it turned out he just wasn't pushing hard enough 
His previous car was an Escort GT that required almost zero effort to push the clutch.
His previous car was an Escort GT that required almost zero effort to push the clutch.
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Freshman User
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Yea, its definitively stiff. I'm going to move the slave push rod around a bit. More recently i had the nut on the push rod set towards the slave, like really close. I then backed it out a few turns. I'm assuming that a 1/4 in. means that the back of the rod should be coming out a 1/4 inch through the opening of the fork? Or a 1/4 inch from the stop nut all the way in front from slave cylinder? Thanks
Last edited by fhorta; Apr 22, 2021 at 09:35 AM.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
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Pull the fork to the back of the truck by hand to remove the slack, adjust the nut so that there is a 1/4" gap between the nut and fork.
The nut is convex on one side and the fork is concave where that nut makes contact.
The nut is convex on one side and the fork is concave where that nut makes contact.
