When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Great work to get things this far It sounds like you've uncovered a vaccum leak at throttle shaft and carb body which is common on a warn carb of this vintage.There are folks that can make this repair by rebushing the carb body.. The idle mixture screws might be beyond repair. Your persistence is starting to pay off. Post back with your progress. It helps the next person.
Great work to get things this far It sounds like you've uncovered a vaccum leak at throttle shaft and carb body which is common on a warn carb of this vintage.There are folks that can make this repair by rebushing the carb body.. The idle mixture screws might be beyond repair. Your persistence is starting to pay off. Post back with your progress. It helps the next person.
I will be sure to keep posting. It seems like this carb core is just beyond its useful life. If the $80 1.14 venturi amazon carb doesn't workout, I guess I'll try ebay or junkyards for a decent 1.21 2150 and rebuild it. Thanks again!
Don't be surprised if the "new" carb you buy has the same issue, to a lesser extent. I have the reamer and bushings you need to fix the issue if you are willing to do it. It's not a bad job at all. Cured my carburetor issues. Would be more than happy to mail you the stuff to do it.
Don't be surprised if the "new" carb you buy has the same issue, to a lesser extent. I have the reamer and bushings you need to fix the issue if you are willing to do it. It's not a bad job at all. Cured my carburetor issues. Would be more than happy to mail you the stuff to do it.
I appreciate it! I'll let you know how it goes with the new one since I already ordered it. I think it'll be here in a week or so. I've read about fixing mine but since it's undersized with a 1.08 venturi and has the issues with the loose idle mixture screws and one of the jets, by the time I drilled, tapped, and helicoiled, I might as well have bought a $50 used carb from ebay with the correct venturi and jets and refurbish that. At least this new carb has a 1.14 venturi and I can drill the jets up to 52 from the 49 I think they come with. My current carburetor has 49's anyway
Maybe you will get a good one. Just seems alot of the reman companies pay little or no attention to the throttle shaft bores. Years and years of steel rod rotating in aluminum eggs out the holes and starts sucking air. I got a clue mine was doing it when it would only idle with the mixture so far out, compensating for the air.
Glad to see you are making headway. I was once in the exact same boat when I brought home my 77. Whittled away at it and finally got it right. Good luck!.
Maybe you will get a good one. Just seems alot of the reman companies pay little or no attention to the throttle shaft bores. Years and years of steel rod rotating in aluminum eggs out the holes and starts sucking air. I got a clue mine was doing it when it would only idle with the mixture so far out, compensating for the air.
Glad to see you are making headway. I was once in the exact same boat when I brought home my 77. Whittled away at it and finally got it right. Good luck!.
Thanks! Eventually I'd like to rebuild it with new pistons for 9:1 compression and a rv cam. The zf5 or nv4500 swap would be great. I plan for this to be my daily towing and hauling vehicle. For now the goal is to get everything running and driveable the way it is. Body work and paint will come before the engine rebuild if it ends up driving okay.
We are getting snow today so I haven't done much on the truck. I did run it one more time yesterday. I installed the air cleaner and maybe it was just in my head but I think it ran "slightly" better. I guess because the air cleaner restricts air a little more than without.
Anyway, the remanufactured carb should be here early next week. It comes with the thicker gasket but not one for the egr plate to intake. I will get some high temp gasket paper to make a copy of that gasket. I will also take the egr off the spacer, clean it out as best as I can and make a new gasket for it.
In the meantime, I will clean out the gas tank, work on the fuel level sender (not working or missing), check transmission and differential fluid, and other miscellaneous stuff. Thanks again!
Many tap the hole for a plug taking care not to allow the metal tapping debris into the intake and then adding a threaded plug with appropriate thread sealer. Then a carp spacer is added to regain the height after the EGR plate is eliminated so the carb linkage functions properly
Trans Dapt makes a nice spacer for the 2 barrel . Trans Dapt 2137.
Yes. It has that egr hole at the upper left. I reused the gasket that was on there already because it looked too be in pretty good shape. It was thin and metal. At the time I didn't have any high temp gasket paper to remake a gasket and none of the ones that came in the rebuild kit would fit. I have sprayed carb spray around where that egr "hole" is but didn't find a leak there. It was only when I used the red straw that comes with the carb spray that I was able to find a leak. I had to stick the straw part under egr plate that sticks out at the back. When I sprayed under there, the idle jumped. The only other place the idle changed was around the throttle. I am almost positive these two vacuum leaks, along with the "loose" idle mixture screws are why it was needing to idle so high with the choke closed to run at all.
We're you trying to get at something else or does that about cover it? The snow has just about stopped so I'm kind of itching to get back to working on it. Thanks!
Many tap the hole for a plug taking care not to allow the metal tapping debris into the intake and then adding a threaded plug with appropriate thread sealer. Then a carp spacer is added to regain the height after the EGR plate is eliminated so the carb linkage functions properly
Trans Dapt makes a nice spacer for the 2 barrel . Trans Dapt 2137.
Thanks! I will look into doing that if I can't get it to work with the new carb. The distributor looks to be the original motorcraft which I've read is curved to work with the egr.
That was a nice read. I'm also thinking about swapping in a new cam. Not that I've noticed any problems with whatever one is in there now, it would just be nice to know for sure that the stock retarded cam is gone. I'm sort of an all or nothing kind of guy so if I went that far, I would likely end up pulling the engine, replacing the pistons for higher compression, doing the cam, head work, etc to take full advantage of the big block. It has the 4.10 Dana 60 from '65 so I know it won't be a total dog as is but more hp and torque would be nice. Especially since I'd expect around 10 mpg regardless of the performance (I won't go crazy on the hp and torque numbers as this will be an almost daily tower/hauler). If what I've read is true, raising the power of the fe without going overboard can actually bump up mpg by 1-2 mpg because the engine is working less to generate the power needed to go down the road. A 5 speed overdrive with the 4.10 might even be able to get 15 mpg highway from what I've read
A truck whose going to do mostly truck duties you'll want it to burn 87 octane fuel. That means the compression ratio will be limited. My first 390FE with an RV cam and a 1969 timing set in a F250 with a cast iron 4 barrel intake, dual exhausts, carter AFB 4 barrel, and a NP435 4 spd. got 12-13 mpg.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
It sounds like you've uncovered a vaccum leak at throttle shaft and carb body which is common on a warn carb of this vintage.There are folks that can make this repair by rebushing the carb body.. The idle mixture screws might be beyond repair. Your persistence is starting to pay off. Post back with your progress. It helps the next person.
