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I am installing an Anderson plug at the rear of my truck to use maybe as a jumper cable connection or in case my 5th wheel batteries are dead I can connect to them. Got the idea from BTBRV on youtube and had a setup on my '07 F250. My question is, instead of running a #2 negative cable all the way back to the battery is it ok to just maybe ground the #2 negative to the frame or trailer hitch provided I used a bolt and scuffed the surface up a bit?
The shorter your wires the better, and using the chassis for the return will allow you to shorten the wire a lot. It should also be noted that the Anderson SB50 (small ones) are good to 120 amps. The “50” is there hot swap rating.
The shorter your wires the better, and using the chassis for the return will allow you to shorten the wire a lot. It should also be noted that the Anderson SB50 (small ones) are good to 120 amps. The “50” is there hot swap rating.
Thank You Guys!!
That is exactly the information I was looking for.
I have a 3/0 from batteries to front and rear, with a 350 amp connector on each end. Ground is a 2/0 to frame. My winch will pull 330amps at full load, I've also jump start equipment and can run my 2k invetor on 5vr for the microwave. Have maxed winch a few times, but havent felt any hot connections and have used for several years.
I used Anderson SB175 connectors with 1/0 cable. I ran a 1/0 ground from the passenger battery to a factory ground point on the frame right below it. You can see it from the passenger side wheel well. The ground is right on top of the frame and is a sturdy 13mm bolt.
At the rear I used a Trailer Vision SB175 mount and made a 1/0 ground cable that goes to the frame. Trailer Vision SB175 Mount
I have a 3/0 from batteries to front and rear, with a 350 amp connector on each end. Ground is a 2/0 to frame. My winch will pull 330amps at full load, I've also jump start equipment and can run my 2k invetor on 5vr for the microwave. Have maxed winch a few times, but havent felt any hot connections and have used for several years.
You're trusting factory grounds for 350 amps?
Originally Posted by dieseldrive
The shorter your wires the better, and using the chassis for the return will allow you to shorten the wire a lot. It should also be noted that the Anderson SB50 (small ones) are good to 120 amps. The “50” is there hot swap rating.
The chassis ground only saves on actual wire used, it does not change the over circuit length.
I've done this on several trucks and will be doing soon on the new truck. I will not use the chassis ground though.
I usually run 2/0 from starter lugs for positive (both batteries) and the engine block ground for the negative. Anderson 175's for everything. We use them for truck and boat work. Jumpers, winches, inverters, 12 volt power to cargo trailers etc. Also have an anderson and 12' cable on the RV for using a macerator pump, or if needed as a battery charger for the truck.
One connector no matter the current requirement keeps things simple.
I've run a 2,500 watt true sine inverter in the past and would never trust factory grounds for that.
The new truck may get 4/0 this time since i now have a portable 3,000 watt inverter to play with.
There are 2 cables running to each battery so yes I trust it. Otherwise your truck wouldn't start since starter pulls more amps than that.
World of perfect electric theory, yes run ground cable, but cost vs efficiency loss, frame is just fine.
There are 2 cables running to each battery so yes I trust it. Otherwise your truck wouldn't start since starter pulls more amps than that.
World of perfect electric theory, yes run ground cable, but cost vs efficiency loss, frame is just fine.
Unless ford has changed, the starter is not relying on the chassis grounds. My truck has battery grounds on the engine block ahead of the starter.
The chassis ground only saves on actual wire used, it does not change the over circuit length.
I've done this on several trucks and will be doing soon on the new truck. I will not use the chassis ground though.
I usually run 2/0 from starter lugs for positive (both batteries) and the engine block ground for the negative. Anderson 175's for everything. We use them for truck and boat work. Jumpers, winches, inverters, 12 volt power to cargo trailers etc. Also have an anderson and 12' cable on the RV for using a macerator pump, or if needed as a battery charger for the truck.
One connector no matter the current requirement keeps things simple.
I've run a 2,500 watt true sine inverter in the past and would never trust factory grounds for that.
The new truck may get 4/0 this time since i now have a portable 3,000 watt inverter to play with.
reducing the length of the negative conductor (and using chassis for return) absolutely reduces voltage drop in the circuit (the shorter the negative wire, the less the total voltage drop in the circuit will be. The biggest benefit to using chassis ground in automotive applications is it allows for smaller wire (saves weight and costs).
reducing the length of the negative conductor (and using chassis for return) absolutely reduces voltage drop in the circuit (the shorter the negative wire, the less the total voltage drop in the circuit will be.
No it does not.
In DC circuits the run is calculated from the B+ to the appliance and back to the B-, the total run from the battery positive to the battery negative.
The frame in between does not shorten the calculated run, but does lower the voltage drop to about half, or allow for wire gauge to be 2 or 3 sizes smaller.
Originally Posted by dieseldrive
The biggest benefit to using chassis ground in automotive applications is it allows for smaller wire (saves weight and costs).
That is the primary reason, weight and costs.
Just a personal opinion, but if I'm looking to run an Anderson to the rear bumper for a multitude of power purposes I am not looking to save weight or costs and the chance of coming up 'short'
I am installing an Anderson plug at the rear of my truck to use maybe as a jumper cable connection or in case my 5th wheel batteries are dead I can connect to them. Got the idea from BTBRV on youtube and had a setup on my '07 F250. My question is, instead of running a #2 negative cable all the way back to the battery is it ok to just maybe ground the #2 negative to the frame or trailer hitch provided I used a bolt and scuffed the surface up a bit?
Are you wanting this because you need more amps than the 7-pole trailer plug can provide?
I've run slides and jacks on a 5th wheel from just the trailer plug with no battery in the trailer.
While I often install these on my trucks, make absolute sure your cable routing is safe. That length of large cable is a serious liability if it's unprotected at the battery. You might even consider putting another Anderson connector at the battery for when not in use. In my many years of doing automobile electrical work, I've known of many vehicles to have burned up as a result of large power cables that were shorted. I heard about a few of these from people who told me that they regretted not paying me to do the install right. Keep in mind that if the vehicle is in an accident, frames and bodies move a lot, and these cables can get pinched. At that point, it will glow until it can no longer glow, and it can melt things in the process (fuel lines).
Yes, Ford runs unprotected cables in the engine compartment. These have gone through extensive crash testing.
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