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Having a time trying to figure out the charging system on my 1982 Econoline E350, 460 engine. Ammeter always showing a slight discharge, with lights on,or off. Always starts right up. Alternator is a brand new (not reman), and it was tested before it left the store, it tested out as good. Brand new external voltage regulator ,battery cables and new, clean grounds. With lights on, is charging @ 11.7 volts. Lights off it is @ 11.9. Battery, also brand new.
I was poking around under the hood today, saw an orange 14 ga. fuse link with a bump in the insulation (see photo) This one went into a large black wire, with yellow stripe. Not sure if this is in need of replacing, or if it's even related to the charging system. Noticed, that on my van, the "I" terminal on the voltage regulator is unused, a long time ford mechanic friend ( has been driving and working on Fords for over 60 years) said to run a wire from the "I" terminal, to the ignition switch. Seems like it's not sensing the voltage for some reason, Also attaching photo of how the ammeter reads.
Where are you taking the voltage reading at? If you're taking it at the battery, then the new alternator may not be putting out, if you're taking it at the alternator then either there's a problem with the alternator or the voltage regulator. Did you make sure the new regulator is tight on the fender well and you cleaned real well where it bolted down at?
Confirm you have voltage at the green/red wire at the VR with the ignition on. With 11.9 volts you are not charging properly, is the idle speed correct?
Confirm you have voltage at the green/red wire at the VR with the ignition on. With 11.9 volts you are not charging properly, is the idle speed correct?
I have my idle speed @ 700 rpm (under hood sticker shows 650, I like my idle 50 rpm above spec)
Where are you taking the voltage reading at? If you're taking it at the battery, then the new alternator may not be putting out, if you're taking it at the alternator then either there's a problem with the alternator or the voltage regulator. Did you make sure the new regulator is tight on the fender well and you cleaned real well where it bolted down at?
Yes, took voltage reading @ battery
Yes,new regulator mounting area was thoroughly clean and bolted down tight
The new alternator was bench tested before it left the store, passed all required tests ( watched to make sure it was done )
Yes, took voltage reading @ battery
Yes,new regulator mounting area was thoroughly clean and bolted down tight
The new alternator was bench tested before it left the store, passed all required tests ( watched to make sure it was done )
If you're under charging and you're absolutely sure your equipment is fine, then I would go over everything again looking for a bad ground. If you think the orange wire with the bubble in it may be the culprit, use a needle or safety pin on either side of the bubble and check the voltage. I've always been told that when a system is undercharging it's poor ground connections but voltage drops on the negative side can cause overcharging. I sure hope you get it figured out, I hate electrical.
If you're under charging and you're absolutely sure your equipment is fine, then I would go over everything again looking for a bad ground. If you think the orange wire with the bubble in it may be the culprit, use a needle or safety pin on either side of the bubble and check the voltage. I've always been told that when a system is undercharging it's poor ground connections but voltage drops on the negative side can cause overcharging. I sure hope you get it figured out, I hate electrical.
I hate electrical issues too. With it fully warmed up, voltage @ the battery is 12.13 volts. With lights on, it drops to 12.02 volts. Checked orange wire it's got juice. I checked the green wire w/ red stripe at regulator, reading was 6.35 volts. I cleaned/replaced every ground I could think of, not sure what I could have missed. Use van to deliver papers today, it ran for a good hour without shutting off. I let it idle about 5 min more after getting home, I shut it off, then restarted. It spun over with little effort. I am stumped here!
Could it be possible. That the VR was bad out of the box? I mean if you checked voltage coming out of it and it only reads 6 volts and you've double checked all connections I think I myself would have to start suspecting that...do you have a Napa around that might be able to test it?
Unless I am reading the diagram wrong, the green/red wire from the regulator should have 12.** volts on it if it is disconnected from the regulator and the ignition switch is in the run position.
Unless I am reading the diagram wrong, the green/red wire from the regulator should have 12.** volts on it if it is disconnected from the regulator and the ignition switch is in the run position.
I'm not sure, I'll have to remove the entire plug from the regulator. which I guess I can do in order to test it (I downloaded the diagrams to my compooter thanks)
This is a 1985 truck and the alternator is probably has a little different connections from yours but it looks like the regulator might be the same. i just looked at Rock Auto and it is the same voltage regulator for a 85 truck and 82 van..
Around 3:03 in the video he mentions the that the green/r has 12 volts when the ignition key is in the run position.
Throwing a thought out here. Did you check if you're getting any reading on A C instead of D C. I only ever ran into one bad alternator that the diodes weren't working instead of being burnt open. And it gave a 14 volt reading on my D C meter, and also on A C.
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