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On a 351w stock bottom end with a non roller block are roller cams, link bar lifters and roller rockers worth it if your on a with in reason penny pinching build?
By penny pinching I mean if its worth it I will get it.
From a performance standpoint it's not worth it because either type of cam can deliver similar power and the flat tapper version costs less up front, but a roller cam is longer wearing with modern oils and doesn't require a break-in or oil additives.
Yes all of these motors used stamped steel rockers.
Aftermarket heads won't necessarily need roller rockers but you will still need different rockers if the heads are not designed to use OEM style pedestal rockers.
I get budget builds when spending $$$ on Heads and if you can save $300 on rockers it helps. I believe EllieMae94 is using Pedestal mount rockers on his AFR 165's and wwhite is using Pedestal rockers on his Edelbrock heads. I know AFR offers Pedestal or Stud mount but I believe they are the same. If you look at wwhites thread he asked about pedestal rockers. You can get pedestal rocker channels as well. Don't quote me on this but I believe you can use pedestal rockers instead of stud rockers on most of these heads if you pull the studs out. If you have a brand of heads in mind it's worth a e-mail to find out.
Echoing Conanski, from a performance standpoint, not much difference.
But with a roller cam, there is virtually zero chance of wiping the cam out in the first 20 minutes of running (unless something was assembled incorrectly). In the last few years, there has been a plague of cams that do not survive passed the break in stage. I don't know if that is a fault of bad cam cores, heat treating, or lifters, but this is not an issue on a roller cam build. I wiped out a flat tappet cam last year, for the first time ever, on a brand 351w build. Break in lube added to the high zddp oil, properly primed everything, assembly lube on the cam and lifters, lifters were free in their bores. Comp agreed to replace the cam, but that doesn't give me back the time it takes to pull the motor, and clean the block back up to install the new cam. I won't gamble on flat tappet cams anymore.
I get budget builds when spending $$$ on Heads and if you can save $300 on rockers it helps. I believe EllieMae94 is using Pedestal mount rockers on his AFR 165's and wwhite is using Pedestal rockers on his Edelbrock heads. I know AFR offers Pedestal or Stud mount but I believe they are the same. If you look at wwhites thread he asked about pedestal rockers. You can get pedestal rocker channels as well. Don't quote me on this but I believe you can use pedestal rockers instead of stud rockers on most of these heads if you pull the studs out. If you have a brand of heads in mind it's worth a e-mail to find out.
Did you know that the centerlines of the holes are different on the pedestal vs the stud mount heads? I ran into this when I converted a set of GTP heads to use the old style 289 rockers with guide plates. Jomar makes a special girdle for the application.
Thanks for the replies, after a bit of research I like the sound of stud mount rockers but have noticed white and elliemay94 are using pedestal mount.
Am I missing something ?
It all depends on what heads you get. Pedestal style heads may be more limited in selection. They may also be limited in how aggressive a cam you can use. They use 3/8" fine thread bolts to hold down the rocker and pedestal, and are limited to 25 lbs-ft of torque. Most of the pedestal style aftermarket roller rockers use something that looks like a steel pipe for the pedestal. One end of it has a round cutout for the rocker's trunion, and I've read that applying too much torque there can split the pedestal.
On the other hand, you can install 7/16" studs on a stud head for really aggressive cams with monstrous lifts and really heavy springs to match.
I got a deal on a set of Edelbrock pedestal style heads, so that's what I went with. Pictures start from here:
"They use 3/8" fine thread bolts to hold down the rocker and pedestal, and are limited to 25 lbs-ft of torque."
Double check that, I'm pretty sure it's 5/16 NC threads.
Oh you're right! I was thinking about the wrong engine. So the cam limitation of pedestal rockers is lower than I thought. So standard screw-in studs are 3/8", and the super radical version is the 7/16".
If you have the tie bar style lifters you should use a full size cam.
When I put a compcam in a roller 351w block, the stock cam base circle is 'large', and compcam standard size is smaller than the stock 1994 351w roller cam, but not a small circle.
From another thread:
My factory roller 351w has a base circle size of: 1.440" - Standard Cam Base Circle is: 1.340
- Reduced Camshaft Base Circle Diameter = 1.260" - CompCam: "the max base circle is about 1.354"
When I bought my camshaft, I did not know about the different base circle sizes, and caused me some grief, as I could not figure out what spec was incorrect, and why my rockers were way out of spec.
I thought I had the wrong lifters, but ended up being smaller base circle, needed longer push rods.
Check the head manufacturer for what type of rockers work.
Here is a quote from Edelbrock with 60399 heads:
with pedestal mount rocker arms (Will not accept rail rockers).
With machining the heads, you could probably adapt stud mounted rockers.
Also, I think with a small circle cam and link bar lifters, is safer, in that the lifters will sit in the hole lower, if using a non-roller block.
Non-roller blocks lifter bores are not as tall as a roller block. You don't want your lifters popping out of the bores!
So, with that statement, that should guide you to what cam circle size you should get.
When I put a compcam in a roller 351w block, the stock cam base circle is 'large', and compcam standard size is smaller than the stock 1994 351w roller cam, but not a small circle.
From another thread:
Check the head manufacturer for what type of rockers work.
Here is a quote from Edelbrock with 60399 heads:
With machining the heads, you could probably adapt stud mounted rockers.
Also, I think with a small circle cam and link bar lifters, is safer, in that the lifters will sit in the hole lower, if using a non-roller block.
Non-roller blocks lifter bores are not as tall as a roller block. You don't want your lifters popping out of the bores!
So, with that statement, that should guide you to what cam circle size you should get.
A small base circle cam loads the lifters heavier in the bores because it increases the pressure angle on the rollers. It isn't really "safer". One time I had a 351C block that had really big chamfers at the tops of the lifter bores, a full size hydraulic roller cam and I think with a Crane lifter it could almost get into the oil band of the lifter. It was probably within about .040 but it worked fine and didn't spill a bunch of oil.