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Just finished a big tune up on my ‘62 F100, 292 (with a little help from my FTE friends!)
New timing chain
New fuel pump, filter
Rebuilt carb
New plugs, wires
New points, cap, and rotor
Set the timing for 6 BTDC
With all that, it still won’t idle without the choke about 1/2 way out.
It starts perfectly with the choke all the way out and then I start to push it in as the engine warms up but can only get to about 1/2 way in before it starts to idle really poorly. Fully in, it quits.
Any ideas? A friend told me to back out the idle screws a little more. I set them fully in then backed out 1 1/2 turns. Haven’t tried that yet.
Back em out. What have you got to loose. That 1 1/2 turns out is just a place to start. By using the choke you are forcing it to feed some fuel thru the transition slots just above the throttle plates. Are you certain those passages were completely clean?
One area for potential vacuum leaks - if that's what it is - can be around the throttle plate shaft where it passes through the carb housing. Typically the housing wears some and air can slip past the shaft and into the downstream. That's why Mike's offers a number of bushings for different carbs. If all else fails might be worth a call to Mike's to see what he thinks and if so does he have any bushings for your carb.
Just looked at your other thread. That part with the crack in it is an emulsion tube and even though it has no role to play in the idle circuit it will ruin the fuel mixture when the main fuel circuit kicks in. Hopefully you replaced that with a serviceable part.
If not you might be money ahead to get another carb since yours isn't the original anyway.
Last edited by Crop Duster; Mar 20, 2021 at 12:37 PM.
Reason: More words
Not sure what carb you have. There is sally 3 setting: a screw for a cam on the choke to provide a high idle for warm up which comes down as the engine warms as it is pushed in. A screw for idle when the engine is warm. One or two screw for fuel air mixture when the engine in warm.
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