Solved, NOT solved rear vibration
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 418
Likes: 4
From: Tacoma, WA
Solved, NOT solved rear vibration
I had marked the original thread as solved, as adding shims under the leaf springs did lessen the vibration dramatically. However, the vibration is still present. The driveshaft and pinion are exactly in line as per the requirements of a double cardan driveshaft on a lifted EX.
1. New driveshaft was balanced
2. Tires balanced
3. 1.5 degree shims added to correct pinion angle
Have less than 500 miles on this setup. Is it possible the spicer u-joint at the pinion is already shot? There is no play in it by hand.
Running out of ideas for this one.
1. New driveshaft was balanced
2. Tires balanced
3. 1.5 degree shims added to correct pinion angle
Have less than 500 miles on this setup. Is it possible the spicer u-joint at the pinion is already shot? There is no play in it by hand.
Running out of ideas for this one.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 1,666
Likes: 182
I'll second the possibility of a Spicer unit being bad out of the box. I had one bad and didn't know it until it went bad bad. One thing to check, is the joints themselves. Driveline shops have been known to put thinner clips in them to make the caps fit. You can take the driveshaft out and tap the caps back and forth to get the joint more centered. You should have a tight joint by hand, but it shouldn't bind. I had to work mine back and forth a few times to get it to loosen up to my liking. The joint was for sure tight in the yolk once the clips were in.
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 418
Likes: 4
From: Tacoma, WA
I'll second the possibility of a Spicer unit being bad out of the box. I had one bad and didn't know it until it went bad bad. One thing to check, is the joints themselves. Driveline shops have been known to put thinner clips in them to make the caps fit. You can take the driveshaft out and tap the caps back and forth to get the joint more centered. You should have a tight joint by hand, but it shouldn't bind. I had to work mine back and forth a few times to get it to loosen up to my liking. The joint was for sure tight in the yolk once the clips were in.
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 418
Likes: 4
From: Tacoma, WA
I would tend to agree, as there is nothing left to modify. I did rotate the tires and it had no effect.
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 418
Likes: 4
From: Tacoma, WA
Just got back from a freeway trip and the vibration is most obvious at 60-70. It is the same vibration that was caused by the pinion misalignment, just much quieter now. I can still see the driverside mirror vibrating in unison with it at those speeds.
If it is the same vibration that has been attuned by correcting the pinion angle, which is truly caused by the rear u-joint, then it has to be the u-joint still, correct???
If it is the same vibration that has been attuned by correcting the pinion angle, which is truly caused by the rear u-joint, then it has to be the u-joint still, correct???
Trending Topics
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
again 20 bucks says , tire, rim, rotor,hub and correctly installing the LUG Centric rim to get it perfectly centered
no tire shop is going to solve this for you because it is a detail they overlook unless they are doing a quality brake job.
the cause is almost always the back side of your rim is corroded or dirty, the rotor has corrosion on both the inside and outside face and must be clean.
basically all 3 mating surfaces are likely to be corroded
here is your chore for today
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 1,293
Likes: 164
How high was the lift block and what direction did you put the shim, fat side to the back or the front? It still could be tires/rims. I had a camry that I put lug centric wheels on and it had a vibration. However the car was made for hub centric wheels. Installed a hub centric centering ring in the wheel. No more vibration.
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 418
Likes: 4
From: Tacoma, WA
How high was the lift block and what direction did you put the shim, fat side to the back or the front? It still could be tires/rims. I had a camry that I put lug centric wheels on and it had a vibration. However the car was made for hub centric wheels. Installed a hub centric centering ring in the wheel. No more vibration.
I hope it is just the lug centric wheels being slightly out. I have to check that this weekend.
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 418
Likes: 4
From: Tacoma, WA
again 20 bucks says , tire, rim, rotor,hub and correctly installing the LUG Centric rim to get it perfectly centered
no tire shop is going to solve this for you because it is a detail they overlook unless they are doing a quality brake job.
the cause is almost always the back side of your rim is corroded or dirty, the rotor has corrosion on both the inside and outside face and must be clean.
basically all 3 mating surfaces are likely to be corroded
here is your chore for today
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kjT2Khn-FtI
no tire shop is going to solve this for you because it is a detail they overlook unless they are doing a quality brake job.
the cause is almost always the back side of your rim is corroded or dirty, the rotor has corrosion on both the inside and outside face and must be clean.
basically all 3 mating surfaces are likely to be corroded
here is your chore for today
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kjT2Khn-FtI
I will check those surfaces this weekend. Thanks.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
don't overlook the wheel install process, some rim/nut combo's are more stubburn then others.
best to use a 3/4" open acorn nut. the larger more common 13/16' nuts are troublesome because even a thin wall socket usually is tight in the wheel bore.
with the wheel off the ground tighten the top nut BY HAND just barely touching then rotate the rim 180* and now tighten the new top nut just barely seated.
rotate 90* then 180*. until you have 4 nuts on just kissing the seat.
put the other 4 on but slightly tighter then the previous 4 equal to these.
now, here is the critical, use a 4x4 wood block as a wedge and torgue in the common start pattern to 75 ft lbs
then go back and torque all to 165 ft lbs
told you, total PITA but if your surfaces are clean your vibes will be gone.
or go back to a factory hub centric rim if you prefer to just slam the rim on with a impact gun ***** nilly
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
Just reread your original post.
you had your tires and wheels balanced, however you dont specify the method or the results.
keep in mind a balanced tire that has execive run out will still cause a shimmy even though it is technivally balanced.
for Large tires I prefer balamce beads, but on vechile balancing is adequate. off vechile spin balance is useless, especally with large mud terrains.
FYI, I run 40's and have never had a shop balance a tire. Tire beads work perfect. ( it is how semi trucks balance their tires ) but even beads can not compensate for run out.
you had your tires and wheels balanced, however you dont specify the method or the results.
keep in mind a balanced tire that has execive run out will still cause a shimmy even though it is technivally balanced.
for Large tires I prefer balamce beads, but on vechile balancing is adequate. off vechile spin balance is useless, especally with large mud terrains.
FYI, I run 40's and have never had a shop balance a tire. Tire beads work perfect. ( it is how semi trucks balance their tires ) but even beads can not compensate for run out.
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 418
Likes: 4
From: Tacoma, WA
don't overlook the wheel install process, some rim/nut combo's are more stubburn then others.
best to use a 3/4" open acorn nut. the larger more common 13/16' nuts are troublesome because even a thin wall socket usually is tight in the wheel bore.
with the wheel off the ground tighten the top nut BY HAND just barely touching then rotate the rim 180* and now tighten the new top nut just barely seated.
rotate 90* then 180*. until you have 4 nuts on just kissing the seat.
put the other 4 on but slightly tighter then the previous 4 equal to these.
now, here is the critical, use a 4x4 wood block as a wedge and torgue in the common start pattern to 75 ft lbs
then go back and torque all to 165 ft lbs
told you, total PITA but if your surfaces are clean your vibes will be gone.
or go back to a factory hub centric rim if you prefer to just slam the rim on with a impact gun ***** nilly
best to use a 3/4" open acorn nut. the larger more common 13/16' nuts are troublesome because even a thin wall socket usually is tight in the wheel bore.
with the wheel off the ground tighten the top nut BY HAND just barely touching then rotate the rim 180* and now tighten the new top nut just barely seated.
rotate 90* then 180*. until you have 4 nuts on just kissing the seat.
put the other 4 on but slightly tighter then the previous 4 equal to these.
now, here is the critical, use a 4x4 wood block as a wedge and torgue in the common start pattern to 75 ft lbs
then go back and torque all to 165 ft lbs
told you, total PITA but if your surfaces are clean your vibes will be gone.
or go back to a factory hub centric rim if you prefer to just slam the rim on with a impact gun ***** nilly
Just reread your original post.
you had your tires and wheels balanced, however you dont specify the method or the results.
keep in mind a balanced tire that has execive run out will still cause a shimmy even though it is technivally balanced.
for Large tires I prefer balamce beads, but on vechile balancing is adequate. off vechile spin balance is useless, especally with large mud terrains.
FYI, I run 40's and have never had a shop balance a tire. Tire beads work perfect. ( it is how semi trucks balance their tires ) but even beads can not compensate for run out.
you had your tires and wheels balanced, however you dont specify the method or the results.
keep in mind a balanced tire that has execive run out will still cause a shimmy even though it is technivally balanced.
for Large tires I prefer balamce beads, but on vechile balancing is adequate. off vechile spin balance is useless, especally with large mud terrains.
FYI, I run 40's and have never had a shop balance a tire. Tire beads work perfect. ( it is how semi trucks balance their tires ) but even beads can not compensate for run out.
Took it out and no change in the vibration. It still feel like it is the pinion/driveline, like before, as I can still feel that shake at 1-3 mph, then ever so slightly at 30mph, then now with the correct angle it comes on at 65mph enough to blur my rear view mirror. It is not loud and deafening like it used to be, but still with the vibration.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
65mph vibration is drive line or wheels. take your pick.
i hesitate to post this,but it works grea. I would call an advanced DIY tactic. plenty of oppertunity of carnage here, if you have hesitation do not proceed. take your shaft back to the driveline shop
i hesitate to post this,but it works grea. I would call an advanced DIY tactic. plenty of oppertunity of carnage here, if you have hesitation do not proceed. take your shaft back to the driveline shop