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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

1997 F-250 solid axle swap,

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Old Feb 28, 2021 | 09:14 PM
  #1  
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1997 F-250 solid axle swap,

Hey y'all, I am new here and have only been in the OBS world for about a year and a half,

I am looking to solid axle swap my truck, It is a 1997 F250 HD RCLB 4x4 7.3 E4OD,

I possibly have access to a OBS F350 with the 460 (unsure on the year at the moment) from what I have read as long as the donor is a 94-97 it should all bolt right on and I can use my current calipers and rotors and such,

Is there anything to look after or any extra parts to be aware of needing to buy for the project?

It appears as long as I grab all the springs, pitman arm, shocks, driveshaft and basically anything else different between the 2 and related to the front end from the donor it all should be pretty bolt on and straight forward?

I am also considering swapping the rear springs at the same time, I am not sure how much it would really benefit me at the moment as I dont plan on towing anything that massive right now, just looking for better handling, ability to handle a plow better, my current axle has negative camber (twin traction beam) supposedly this is normal? Mine seems pretty excessive, the tires are not wearing abnormally but it is definitely noticable, I also have front end U- joints going bad anyway that I have heard suck on the TTB to replace,


I appreciate any and all comment and suggestions, Thanks,
 
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Old Feb 28, 2021 | 10:12 PM
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As you stated get everything bolted to the D60 axle, and it will bolt right up. Be sure to get the drivers side saddle for the u bolts, as they are as scarce as hens teeth. You might want to also get the 4 inch spring spacer block on the rear axle, as the D60 will raise the front by about 2 inches. The rear springs on the F250s and the F350s are the same, as long as the F350 is not a cab and chassis truck.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2021 | 10:47 PM
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Your shackle bushings are most definitely shot and your spring eye bushings are probably not far behind. Replace those while you have it apart.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2021 | 10:32 AM
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Jarrett Campbell
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And keep the f350 springs, don't use the ones that you have on the TTB.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2021 | 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by farmert
As you stated get everything bolted to the D60 axle, and it will bolt right up. Be sure to get the drivers side saddle for the u bolts, as they are as scarce as hens teeth. You might want to also get the 4 inch spring spacer block on the rear axle, as the D60 will raise the front by about 2 inches. The rear springs on the F250s and the F350s are the same, as long as the F350 is not a cab and chassis truck.
I will probably end up using the rear springs from the F350 as well, I have access to a whole truck hopefully, I am likely going to change the axle first and see how it sits and go from there, my front end sits low as it is,
 
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Old Mar 1, 2021 | 10:57 AM
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I plan on using all suspension parts from the F350 and not going crazy with rebuilding it but basic bushings and fluid change, I am going to have to change the gear ratio from 4.10 to 3.55 which could pose an issue,

This scarce bracket on the drivers side, would it be something I can pull off of the F350 or would I need to source and special one?
 
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Old Mar 1, 2021 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by CliffytheRed73
I plan on using all suspension parts from the F350 and not going crazy with rebuilding it but basic bushings and fluid change, I am going to have to change the gear ratio from 4.10 to 3.55 which could pose an issue,

This scarce bracket on the drivers side, would it be something I can pull off of the F350 or would I need to source and special one?
The bracket in question is on the 350 if the springs are still bolted to the axle. The u bolts loupe over the axle and springs and threw the saddle with the nuts holding the saddle/u bolts to the axle tube. I would just unbolt the axle from the truck via the shackles, leaving the springs on the axle. As mentioned above use the 350 springs for a better ride and handling.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2021 | 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by farmert
The bracket in question is on the 350 if the springs are still bolted to the axle. The u bolts loupe over the axle and springs and threw the saddle with the nuts holding the saddle/u bolts to the axle tube. I would just unbolt the axle from the truck via the shackles, leaving the springs on the axle. As mentioned above use the 350 springs for a better ride and handling.
Ok that makes sense, So as long as I have everything from the springs down I should be set, and I actually didnt realize the 250 springs were stiffer till doing some reading early and it actually makes sense with the way the axle works, The more you know,
 
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Old Mar 2, 2021 | 07:07 PM
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Really glad to see this topic posted as I have similar plans and will follow the thread. My 96 F250 HD 4x4 extended cab has has a very tired front end, ball-joints worn out, and wheels splayed out stance with definite abnormal tire wear. So I've been wrestling with the rebuild the Dana 50 TTB vs axle swap dilemma. An opportunity to purchase a 97 F350 4x4 at auction came along, so now I have a complete donor vehicle, with lots of good parts besides having a front Dana 60 perfect for swapping...planning stage.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2021 | 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by '96F250HD
Really glad to see this topic posted as I have similar plans and will follow the thread. My 96 F250 HD 4x4 extended cab has has a very tired front end, ball-joints worn out, and wheels splayed out stance with definite abnormal tire wear. So I've been wrestling with the rebuild the Dana 50 TTB vs axle swap dilemma. An opportunity to purchase a 97 F350 4x4 at auction came along, so now I have a complete donor vehicle, with lots of good parts besides having a front Dana 60 perfect for swapping...planning stage.

Ahhhh yes the good ole stance life.... Not 😂😂,

From what I am seeing as long as you have a donor truck and the gears are the same it should be pretty straight forward other then just needing to adress some worn out bushings and such,

And your years are close enough the brakes will also bolt right up, If I were you I suggest taking the lift blocks from the rear of the 350 as well and youll have a F350 essentially until the VIN gets involved.....

Also, disnt know they made a F250 HD in 96? Thought that was 97 specific, learn something new every day,
 
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Old Mar 2, 2021 | 07:27 PM
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Yes, it seems mine was a little on the rare side when I researched it at the time I bought it a year ago (also at auction, lol). And I may be wrong on this as I'm no expert by any means. Here's what google had to say: Ninth-generation Ford F-Series models are:
  • F-150: 1/2 ton (6,250 lb GVWR max)
  • F-250 : 1992–1995 3/4 ton (8,800 lb GVWR max)
  • F-250 HD: 1996–1997 3/4 ton (8,800 GVWR max)
  • F-350 : 1 ton (10,000 lb GVWR max)
  • F-Super Duty (chassis cab model only): 1 1/2 ton and greater (16,000 lb GVWR max)
and mine is the 8800 GVWR and has the cab marker lights.

Yes, my stance is terrible to see, lol, especially the inner tire wear! My truck was a one owner (company) construction site truck for its entire life, and I guess their solution to the alignment issue was to just replace the tires every so often, slower wear on mostly dirt. (The spare is a dead give-away, lol). And you can bet that EVERY bushing on the truck is slap worn out, I'll have to replace them all. The bed has been used hard, and has an ugly right side....another reason for the donor, it has the best bed I've seen in almost a year of junkyard searching. The front bumper on the donor is also going to replace mine, AND the donor has bucket seats with console in the middle...a great upgrade for my truck's XL bench!
 
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Old Mar 2, 2021 | 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by '96F250HD
Yes, it seems mine was a little on the rare side when I researched it at the time I bought it a year ago (also at auction, lol). And I may be wrong on this as I'm no expert by any means. Here's what google had to say: Ninth-generation Ford F-Series models are:
  • F-150: 1/2 ton (6,250 lb GVWR max)
  • F-250 : 1992–1995 3/4 ton (8,800 lb GVWR max)
  • F-250 HD: 1996–1997 3/4 ton (8,800 GVWR max)
  • F-350 : 1 ton (10,000 lb GVWR max)
  • F-Super Duty (chassis cab model only): 1 1/2 ton and greater (16,000 lb GVWR max)
and mine is the 8800 GVWR and has the cab marker lights.
Yes, fron my understanding the HD in the later years designated the diesel as there was the ever so ugly 10th gen F150 and F250 that started in those years but the diesels stayed with the OBS for a couple years more,

Originally Posted by '96F250HD
Yes, my stance is terrible to see, lol, especially the inner tire wear! My truck was a one owner (company) construction site truck for its entire life, and I guess their solution to the alignment issue was to just replace the tires every so often, slower wear on mostly dirt. (The spare is a dead give-away, lol). And you can bet that EVERY bushing on the truck is slap worn out, I'll have to replace them all. The bed has been used hard, and has an ugly right side....another reason for the donor, it has the best bed I've seen in almost a year of junkyard searching. The front bumper on the donor is also going to replace mine, AND the donor has bucket seats with console in the middle...a great upgrade for my truck's XL bench!
Oddly enough mine does not seem to chew tires all that bad and I believe got an alignment recently but there is really no fixing this with the twin traction beam, it is just how its designed i guess,

Would it maybe be less work to swap your drivetrain into the 350? LOL its understandable if the 250 has a cab configuration you prefer or anything, In my case my donor 350 is wayyy to far rotted on the body to even consider it,
 
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Old Mar 2, 2021 | 09:31 PM
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coupla shortfalls with the donor F350....single cab for one. It also was a farm truck and the body has cosmetic issues, for example, neither door closes well and looks to have had screwdrivers jammed in here and there...ugly. And why did the doors fit so poorly in the first place? Tweaked from an accident? Who knows. The hood has been sprung as well....more body shop moneys, problems. When I say farm truck I mean driven daily in the worst possible muddy environments....just imagine being a daily driver in tractor pull mud pit type environments, LOL. not pretty. My 250 by contrast, was a construction site truck, true....but dirty in ways that can be cleaned up. The body straight (except for the bed)...all doors (and hood) open and close nicely, etc. I guess I need to figure out how to post pictures and post. I really do wish the f350 was nicer cosmetically, then I'd just swap my truck's 7.3 into it and roll with it, because the donor truck came non-running with no radiator. My 250 runs GREAT with 186,000 miles on the odometer and zero blow-by, im no transmission expert either but it seems strong (automatic). Still need to make sure the gear ratio's are compatible between the two trucks, and don't know if the donor truck shorter wheelbase presents any axle swapping problems, or is that just a drive shaft change that is simple? Anyway, not meaning to hijack your thread, but enjoying talking trucks with you.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2021 | 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by '96F250HD
coupla shortfalls with the donor F350....single cab for one. It also was a farm truck and the body has cosmetic issues, for example, neither door closes well and looks to have had screwdrivers jammed in here and there...ugly. And why did the doors fit so poorly in the first place? Tweaked from an accident? Who knows. The hood has been sprung as well....more body shop moneys, problems. When I say farm truck I mean driven daily in the worst possible muddy environments....just imagine being a daily driver in tractor pull mud pit type environments, LOL. not pretty. My 250 by contrast, was a construction site truck, true....but dirty in ways that can be cleaned up. The body straight (except for the bed)...all doors (and hood) open and close nicely, etc. I guess I need to figure out how to post pictures and post. I really do wish the f350 was nicer cosmetically, then I'd just swap my truck's 7.3 into it and roll with it, because the donor truck came non-running with no radiator. My 250 runs GREAT with 186,000 miles on the odometer and zero blow-by, im no transmission expert either but it seems strong (automatic). Still need to make sure the gear ratio's are compatible between the two trucks, and don't know if the donor truck shorter wheelbase presents any axle swapping problems, or is that just a drive shaft change that is simple? Anyway, not meaning to hijack your thread, but enjoying talking trucks with you.

Oh yea that completely makes sense, I would agdee and much rather fix a crew or extended cab over a regular cab if it was possible, mines a regular cab and I dont have enough room LOL
I dont see any possible issues the different wheelbase, everything from the bumper the the transfer case should be identical I would assume,

And no problem on hijacking the thread LOL thats what we are all here for is to talk truck stuff and help each other out with random and dumb things like axle swaps 😂
 
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Old Mar 4, 2021 | 09:12 PM
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Update, the truck that will likely be the donor is a '92, only difference is brakes, correct?

Should be ok will just have to get brakes for a '92? Any issues I will need to be aware of? Isnt '92 the last year of the king pin?
 
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