strain on system
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From: Southeastern PA
strain on system
My new amp is making my battery volts jump around when the bass hits. Will a capasitor help, or a new alternator, or both? Oh yeah, it mainly when it's idling, fine when the RPMs are higher-.
Last edited by No_BS; Oct 27, 2003 at 09:36 AM.
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From: Atlanta, GA
Re: strain on system
Originally posted by No_BS
My new amp is making my battery volts jump around when the bass hits. Will a capasitor help, or a new alternator, or both? Oh yeah, it mainly when it's idling, fine when the RPMs are higher-.
My new amp is making my battery volts jump around when the bass hits. Will a capasitor help, or a new alternator, or both? Oh yeah, it mainly when it's idling, fine when the RPMs are higher-.
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the power strain comes from the drive on your alternator. Grim's right, get a capacitor. Sounds like you gotta big amp. Whatcha runnin?
usually a 1 ferrad capacitor for 500-1000 watts and another Ferrad for every thousand thereafter, I BELIEVE
usually a 1 ferrad capacitor for 500-1000 watts and another Ferrad for every thousand thereafter, I BELIEVE
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I disagree.
For the money it would cost for a decent cap ($80-$120,) you could buy a damn good battery instead. After all, a cap is just a battery, and a very small, limited use one at that.
By upgrading your existing battery to a Red Top, Interstate Megatron, Exide spiral cell or similar; you will not only improve your stereo's ability to hit those low notes effectively; you'll be upgrading your entire vehicle's electrical system at the same time.
BUT; before even doing this, I would suggest spending $10-15 on some hi strand count 2 or 4 AWG and upgrade your alternator> battery + lead, your battery> chassis ground, and your engine> chassis ground. Many times, these small (but very important) steps will solve your problem right there. Good luck.
For the money it would cost for a decent cap ($80-$120,) you could buy a damn good battery instead. After all, a cap is just a battery, and a very small, limited use one at that.
By upgrading your existing battery to a Red Top, Interstate Megatron, Exide spiral cell or similar; you will not only improve your stereo's ability to hit those low notes effectively; you'll be upgrading your entire vehicle's electrical system at the same time.
BUT; before even doing this, I would suggest spending $10-15 on some hi strand count 2 or 4 AWG and upgrade your alternator> battery + lead, your battery> chassis ground, and your engine> chassis ground. Many times, these small (but very important) steps will solve your problem right there. Good luck.
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From: north carolina
a cap is a little like a battery in the fact that it hold power. the difference is it can release the power much faster than a battery. that is why when you hit hard bass note the lights flash or dim. the battery can provide power fast enogh for the amp so it pulls it from the alternater. over all a battery is better for current but not for fast pulls of current. all so with a new battery you will need 4ga wire or biger, three fuse holders. one at the front and two at the back, as well as a high amp relay or battery isolater.
add all that up and a cap is better for his problem and his pocket.
furrby
add all that up and a cap is better for his problem and his pocket.
furrby
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From: Southeastern PA
Any suggestions on what cap. to get, what else do I need? I really didn't get all that big of an amp, it's only 150wx2, I have 8 guage power and ground and am running 2 10" subs. It hits very hard and I like it. And oh yeah, I'm thinking that this is the same problem but want to make sure: when I use the bass boost (I know, it's bad, but am willing to blow my crap subs) the amp will completely shut off. It comes back on in a few seconds after I turn the boost off. Is this becasue of the voltage dropping too low also? In case your wondering it has remote bass boost, which will be really cool once I figure out where to mount it (any suggestions?).
Last edited by No_BS; Oct 27, 2003 at 07:14 PM.
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Originally posted by _GEEZER_
I disagree.
By upgrading your existing battery to a Red Top, Interstate Megatron, Exide spiral cell or similar; you will not only improve your stereo's ability to hit those low notes effectively; you'll be upgrading your entire vehicle's electrical system at the same time.
I disagree.
By upgrading your existing battery to a Red Top, Interstate Megatron, Exide spiral cell or similar; you will not only improve your stereo's ability to hit those low notes effectively; you'll be upgrading your entire vehicle's electrical system at the same time.
Red tops help, but they dont eliminate lights dimming. I have a brand new red top battery and my lights still dim. Red Tops simply store more juice, hence, longer playing time. less dead batteries... a capacitor is what he needs.
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also, as to what brand capacitor to buy, I've been told that ultimately, there is only 2 companies who make car audio capacitors. The retail companys just buy them and slap their name on them. In my mind, they're all the same.
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Id second (or third, not sure) the vote on no cap, at least for now. Try upgrading the stock wiring ie bat negative to frame/engine block and batt positive to alternator. doing this on my explorer got rid of about 99% of my dimming and i prolly have about 3 times that much in amp wattage running. By the way what kind of vehicle is it?
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Try upgrading the stock wiring ie bat negative to frame/engine block and batt positive to alternator. doing this on my explorer got rid of about 99% of my dimming and i prolly have about 3 times that much in amp wattage running.
But good idea!
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From: Chicagoland
my suggestion, though it is more on an general electrical rather than stereo system basis, is to re-wire your alternator and ground wires first. That is a good idea any time you are going to put a heavy drain on the electrical system. If that doesn't solve the problem, then look into a capacitor. Plus, what is the total RMS wattage drain on your amp, compared to the output of your alternator? if the amp is drawing more than the alternator can produce, look at getting a HO alternator (100-120 amps and higher). oh, just in case you don't know the formula
watts = amps x volts.
watts = amps x volts.
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From: Cupertino, CA
Hey, guys -
Did you read what the original poster said about his amp? It's only 300W. Even at idle, his electrical system should be able to cover that easy, along with whatever else he's running. (Unless, of course, he's idling *really* low.) It sounds to me like his electrical system isn't deficient; it's *defective.*
I agree with Geezer...at least check the wiring around the alternator and its ground. The wiring to the amp is obviously OK, since it's capable of delivering enough juice to cause his meters to jump.
The other thing to consider is whether the voltmeter(s) is delivering a reliable measurement. I doubt that the stock meter (assuming that's what he has) was designed for large, cat-quick fluctuations in current like he may be experiencing. If this is the only symptom, there may be no problem at all...
Did you read what the original poster said about his amp? It's only 300W. Even at idle, his electrical system should be able to cover that easy, along with whatever else he's running. (Unless, of course, he's idling *really* low.) It sounds to me like his electrical system isn't deficient; it's *defective.*
I agree with Geezer...at least check the wiring around the alternator and its ground. The wiring to the amp is obviously OK, since it's capable of delivering enough juice to cause his meters to jump.
The other thing to consider is whether the voltmeter(s) is delivering a reliable measurement. I doubt that the stock meter (assuming that's what he has) was designed for large, cat-quick fluctuations in current like he may be experiencing. If this is the only symptom, there may be no problem at all...
Last edited by mzimmers; Oct 28, 2003 at 10:04 PM.