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Are you planning on building your own Marten ? That is my plan but I would really like to find someone with or buy a bead roller for them and a few other spots .
I’m sure they’re heavier than that. The rest of the metal is 16 ga and the running boards are heavier than that.
Original body panels were 19 gauge most of the patch panels you buy now are 18 gauge. I'm pretty sure the running boards were the same, it's all the ribbing that give them the stiffness ..
Original body panels were 19 gauge most of the patch panels you buy now are 18 gauge. I'm pretty sure the running boards were the same, it's all the ribbing that give them the stiffness ..
Wow, that means my truck must have 100 coats of paint on it. I measured 16ga and made patches from the same. Note to self...sand paint off before measuring.
I don’t agree on the running boards though. They are much heavier steel than the rest of the truck. I had some dents on the bottom flange on one that were a bear to hammer out. No ribbing on that section.
Wow, that means my truck must have 100 coats of paint on it. I measured 16ga and made patches from the same. Note to self...sand paint off before measuring.
I don’t agree on the running boards though. They are much heavier steel than the rest of the truck. I had some dents on the bottom flange on one that were a bear to hammer out. No ribbing on that section.
I don't have a gauge guide myself but this discussion has been brought up many times before and this is what I gathered on the subject..The reproduced smoothie running boards I bought for my panel were 16 gauge and I had to add my own braces to the underside of them..
Like John said I have gauged and mic'd my sheet metal at 19 ga and the running boards are the same (best that I can measure them). Remember they are ribbed, have support channels diagonally on the bottom and the frame mounts where the majority of the weight is placed when getting in and out of the truck. If I was building from scratch without ribs or strong backs maybe I would use 16ga but I would make additional support under them no matter what I used for running board.
I built mine out of 14 gauge steel. I made patterns out of wood and masonite, cut my steel to the patterns and had a local metal shop do all my bends on their hydraulic brake.
Are you planning on building your own Marten ? That is my plan but I would really like to find someone with or buy a bead roller for them and a few other spots .
Yes that is what I will be doing. I love the look of the smooth running boards, exp. what Drewski has done. Someone else here has done it as well, don't remember his name. Red and black truck, long box. Putting in an LS this winter. Going to copy some of that plus my own ideas. Copy is the best for of complement, isn't it?
Will get a local shop to bend up the metal and then start welding.
Thanks guys
If I remember correctly 56panelford has said he used smooth on his panel and wouldn't do it again . I don't recall if he said why . Maybe he will chime in with his experience . Are you planning on any kind of stainless strips or similar ? And of course rigidity is a concern without the ribbing so there will need to be extra support underneath .
If I remember correctly 56panelford has said he used smooth on his panel and wouldn't do it again . I don't recall if he said why . Maybe he will chime in with his experience . Are you planning on any kind of stainless strips or similar ?
That wasn't me Ted, I like the ones on my panel but I did have to put my own supports on them.
This is the only picture I can find at the moment but yes I installed Smart Strips. They are sold in 3 different profiles and have evenly spaced ( 8 inch apart ) set screws and nuts. They are made of aluminum .