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Hello 7.3 fans. I’m gathering parts to install a borg Warner s364.5 on my 97 f350. Right now the truck has 160/30s, aftermarket intercooler, regulated return with a super duty pump (444fab), adrenaline hpop, melling lpop, hydra tunner with Dan K’s tunes, zf5 , south bend dual disk clutch, 3.55 gears with a rear grizzly locker. The truck is a weeken warrior, my going to town rig, doesn’t tow often at all, mostly just putt around small towns. How do you folks think this set up will do ? I know a lot of guys run the s366 but I didn’t want the truck to be laggy especially with the 5spd. I’m also wondering if I’ll be pushing the limits of my valve train/ head studs or will I be safe? I’m going with csd kit, I’ve got some super duty plenums and riff raft inserts hopefully that be fine in that department. Lmk when your thought are, much appreciated!!
I’d definitely recommend going with comp 910 valve springs Shimmed to spec and pushrods as well. I’d think you would be fine without headstuds for that injector size.
I will put out there that lag is overrated. Especially with a manual.
Sure, some people want liner power like an electric motor, but that is not the nature of this beast.
After haven driven a few diesel v8 turbos with manual transmissions (one of them had 3.42's), I found that the left foot and gear selection effected lag as much as anything else. FWIW, a stock 7.3 SD configuration did not get complaints about lag. But, I still find that in order to get the SD to jump off the line (when I really need it to), first I have to mash the throttle, wait for the motor to come up in RPM's, then start dumping the clutch. So, for a motor not known for lag, that sure is managing the motor like it has lag
Point is, focus on the build characteristics and manage (drive) the vehicle accordingly. If it turns out that the turbo needs X RPM's to boost, then work the transmission so that RPM's do not stray much below that point.
To get a better idea of the driving experience, might consider pulling RPM / speed tables from Gear and Shift Point Calculator | GTSparkplugs This way you will know whether your typical driving territory and gear selections will keep the motor in its happy place
I will put out there that lag is overrated. Especially with a manual.
Sure, some people want liner power like an electric motor, but that is not the nature of this beast.
After haven driven a few diesel v8 turbos with manual transmissions (one of them had 3.42's), I found that the left foot and gear selection effected lag as much as anything else. FWIW, a stock 7.3 SD configuration did not get complaints about lag. But, I still find that in order to get the SD to jump off the line (when I really need it to), first I have to mash the throttle, wait for the motor to come up in RPM's, then start dumping the clutch. So, for a motor not known for lag, that sure is managing the motor like it has lag
Point is, focus on the build characteristics and manage (drive) the vehicle accordingly. If it turns out that the turbo needs X RPM's to boost, then work the transmission so that RPM's do not stray much below that point.
To get a better idea of the driving experience, might consider pulling RPM / speed tables from Gear and Shift Point Calculator | GTSparkplugs This way you will know whether your typical driving territory and gear selections will keep the motor in its happy place
Thanks for the advice. I swapped the manual into this truck a few months ago after buying a 94 f350 7.3 with a zf5. Love the manual so much I wanted it in my other trucks. So I’ve only been dailying a 5spd for a year now. And the trucks with different gear ratios(4.10 vs 3.55)and clutch’s (south bend vs factory)
are two different animals
FWIW, lag is easily manageable for automatics too. But people do not like the idea of high stall torque converters in a diesel. Or playing around with the shift tables to keep the motor spinning faster so that it does not drop under the sweet spot. If they did, the term lag would probably only live in the n00b angry-moth crowd
So what are your thought on doing springs and push rods? Can’t seem to find a straight answer on the forums on when they become a weak point. And the install seems a little complicated with finding the right shim/ height. Id like to avoid doing springs and push rods until I go bigger with the injectors . Also what power level do you think I’d be at with this set up?
I’ll bet about 400-450 horses on the wheels with that turbo setup and what you already have
springs are good to do even on a stock truck because they are so old. They just make it rev quicker and nicer. Rods I’m pretty sure you don’t really need to worry about till the 500-550 hp range. Someone who knows better may correct me on that tho
I would be installing springs while the engines in the truck. Is it possible to do valve seals without the heads off? Not trying to spend more money than I have to, but should I just do the pushrods while I’m there?
These trucks can bend pushrods and have weak springs stock.
910s are maybe $80 plus shims and a mic if not equipped. I believe I posted my numbers to hit the 132-136lb seat pressure. My heads were all over the place.
If you have an IC, bigger sticks, T4, and a dual disc...doing that top end stuff is a no brainer.
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