When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Howdy, new member. I'm from Northport, Washington. I have a 1988 Bronco 300 i6 c6 automatic trany. Just replaced the flex plate and now can't get the thing to start#@3$_&5433 it trued to turn over yesterday but wasn't cranking fast enough. Like the battery was not fully charged. I slow charged it overnight and hit it with engine starter boost charger this morning. Made a loud click now nothing. Battery is fully charged now. Any thoughts?
Howdy, new member. I'm from Northport, Washington. I have a 1988 Bronco 300 i6 c6 automatic trany. Just replaced the flex plate and now can't get the thing to start#@3$_&5433 it trued to turn over yesterday but wasn't cranking fast enough. Like the battery was not fully charged. I slow charged it overnight and hit it with engine starter boost charger this morning. Made a loud click now nothing. Battery is fully charged now. Any thoughts?
I’m not familiar with a 88 model and don’t have a wiring diagram so someone with more knowledge will hopefully respond but until then you can do some general troubleshooting. First make sure both terminals and battery posts are clean with no corrosion. Get a test light and see if you’re getting power into and out of the starter solenoid (with key in START position) located on the passengers fender under the hood. That click may be indicative of a solenoid problem or corroded/fried wires at the solenoid. If power is going through solenoid down to starter you have a problem with the starter itself. If no power at solenoid work back toward Fuse/Relay Box and ignition switch. Try googling a ignition wiring diagram.
I’m not familiar with a 88 model and don’t have a wiring diagram so someone with more knowledge will hopefully respond but until then you can do some general troubleshooting. First make sure both terminals and battery posts are clean with no corrosion. Get a test light and see if you’re getting power into and out of the starter solenoid (with key in START position) located on the passengers fender under the hood. That click may be indicative of a solenoid problem or corroded/fried wires at the solenoid. If power is going through solenoid down to starter you have a problem with the starter itself. If no power at solenoid work back toward Fuse/Relay Box and ignition switch. Try googling a ignition wiring diagram.
Thanks JalopyJake. New cable ends at battery, starter is relatively new but bench tests fine. New solenoid on fender. Connections checked and replaced as needed. It acted like it was trying. Turned over just real slow. When I checked the battery was only showing 10.4 volts. That's why I trickle charged it overnight. When I tried starting this am 13.7 in the battery and had the boost on from charger. Thanks though I appreciate it
Thanks JalopyJake. New cable ends at battery, starter is relatively new but bench tests fine. New solenoid on fender. Connections checked and replaced as needed. It acted like it was trying. Turned over just real slow. When I checked the battery was only showing 10.4 volts. That's why I trickle charged it overnight. When I tried starting this am 13.7 in the battery and had the boost on from charger. Thanks though I appreciate it
So now it will not crank any at all even with battery charger on boost, right? If so Make 100% sure you’re getting power down at the starter when the key is turned to start position. I’ve had starters bench test fine but do nothing under a load.
Another thing you can do if you are very careful and have a set of booster cables (or you might can do it with your charger) is....make certain the vehicle is in park/neutral secured and cannot move. temporarily unhook the wire going down to the starter from the solenoid. Then secure one booster cable positive lead onto the positive battery post and touch the other positive booster cable end to the hot starter lug where the cable connects. By Doing this you’re essentially bypassing all components except the battery and starter. If it cranks your battery and starter are fine and you probably have a solenoid or wire issue. If not either the battery or starter is bad. Maint point is you need to make sure you’re getting battery voltage down at the starter when everything is hooked up before going any further.
New starter solenoids are known to cause trouble at times on these trucks, as in, maybe not engaging and sticking. You can try tapping lightly with some tool before trying to start the engine, otherwise you can try to bypass it by making a bridge between the solenoid posts using an insulated screwdriver or a piece of wire, this has to be done with the key in the ON position and the trans in Park, if you plan on starting the engine.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.