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I'm in the market for a 60 or 80 gallon compressor. After spending sometime reading about explosions I'm having second thoughts now. There's hundreds of articles about these things exploding and killing people. New, used, very used, doesn't matter. Apparently they just explode sometimes.
If I had a larger garage I wouldn't worry as much but it's just a 3 car garage. I don't want some Chinese steel blowing the roof off my garage. Am I being irrational? I don't want to die.
What pressure range are you looking at and are you looking at consumer or industrial units? There is a drastic leap in pressure vessel construction. Buy a compressor with the lowest pump and motor RPM that has the highest CFM in your budget. These are the highest quality units. Most consumer compressors use cheap 3450 rpm motors and equally cheap pumps spinning at 1725 rpm.
I'm in the market for a 60 or 80 gallon compressor. After spending sometime reading about explosions I'm having second thoughts now. There's hundreds of articles about these things exploding and killing people. New, used, very used, doesn't matter. Apparently they just explode sometimes.
If I had a larger garage I wouldn't worry as much but it's just a 3 car garage. I don't want some Chinese steel blowing the roof off my garage. Am I being irrational? I don't want to die.
All air compressors made in the past 20 years at least, have calibrated pressure relief valves to prevent that. Looks like this.
I read a bunch of stories about tanks exploding even with functioning pressure relief valves. They rust out and go boom or a weld will tear.
The model I'm looking at is a Charge Air Pro. It's at an estate sale I'm going to tomorrow. 80 gallon 2 stage. I don't need 175 PSI so I would keep it around 120.
Maybe I'll just have to buy miluakee fuel impacts and a small compressor with wheels on it. Roll that ***** outside.
I've been a mechanic all my adult and part of my adolescent life, 40+ years professionally and I've never seen one give out like that. The one in our current shop was new in 1981 or 2 and it's still working as designed. You're worrying yourself over nothing. Matter of fact, you're more likely to experience a water heater blowing up long before any compressor, they all have drain valves on the bottom of the tank to remove excess moisture, some drains are automatic.
My Quincy compressor came preset at 125psi and it's perfect for all my air tools. It's a 60g tank and more than adequate as far as volume goes, even when using a blast cabinet. What you want to look for in compressors is the highest CFM at the lowest psi for best results.
Tanks will rust if you dont drain them. Just make it your routine to drain the tank at the end of the work day and you'll be fine.
Buy a quality unit with as many scfm's that you can afford. I have an Eaton that I bought almost 20 years ago; single stage, 3 cylinder, 60 gallon, and IRRC advertised 18scfm and it's too small. Runs constantly when I'm using the cutoff tool. To be fair I've never out run it through. Bought it to replace a 20ish gallon craftsman that I had for maybe a year. It was terrible. Very loud and I out ran it all the time.
Overall I've been disappointed with the Eaton but not to the point that I'd replace it. If I did this stuff for a living, I would have replaced long ago. One of their bigger compressors may have been fine.
Was made in USA when I bought it, I think they now get some of their pumps from China. Been a long time since I went compressor shopping so my info could be outdated. FWIW I narrowed it down to Eaton, Quincy, and Belaire. Went with Eaton as it was the cheapest and they had a pretty good sales pitch on their web site.
I read a bunch of stories about tanks exploding even with functioning pressure relief valves. They rust out and go boom or a weld will tear.
The model I'm looking at is a Charge Air Pro. It's at an estate sale I'm going to tomorrow. 80 gallon 2 stage. I don't need 175 PSI so I would keep it around 120.
Maybe I'll just have to buy miluakee fuel impacts and a small compressor with wheels on it. Roll that bitch outside.
Charge AIR Pro was a brand that was made by DevilBiss. Easy to spot these units, parts are NLA for the cast aluminum pumps (Easy to spot as they were not painted) and the motors were standard 56 frame GE motors. The tanks should all be Manchester, check the ASME cert tag. The wall thickness and ratings are there. Most were 150psi rated. If you are looking for a new compressor and want a actual made in USA including pump and motor there is only one left under the 3k mark and it is Saylor Beall.
I seriously doubt any air compressor tank has actually exploded and sent shrapnel flying. That would require thousands of pounds pressure, so much that the typical 5hp or lower until could ever produce. Even if the pressure relief valve failed the back pressure would have the compressor stalling at some point.
I've had a well made 20 gallon tank go without maintenance for 15 years, the tank rusted through the weld seam can began leaking. There are automatic tank valves that open for a short time each time the compressor starts, the idea is to expel any accumulated moisture. Those work well enough but nothing beats a thorough draining and perhaps physical inspection with a borescope or similar device.
IF an exploding compressor or tank is a concern build a well ventilated enclosure from 3/4" plywood--that should contain any 200 PSI or lower explosion.
i have a 25 year old campbell hausfeld 7.5 hp 80 gallon compressor out in the garage. i bought it new.
it replaced a 40-50 year old 20 gallon sears that lost pressure from the pump.
i have been working with air tool for over 50 years and only saw one air compressor tank blow up. \well i did not see it blow up, rather heard it.
a friend was cleaning out a barn and found an OLD compressor. i think it may have been home made.
anyhow, when we for home he plugged it in to see if it worked. it showed 50 lbs on the gauge when we went in for a cold one to celebrate the free compressor.
about a minute later we heard a loud bang and went out to see the bottom of the 40 gallon or so tank split open about 6 inches.
upon inspection ,we realized the tank was paper thin from rust because there was no drain in the bottom of it.
Great questions.... Being a welder, many times I have been asked to repair different types of tanks. Some of the air compressors with the motor / pump mounted on the tank will suffer from stress cracks around the mounting plate. As mentioned above, corrosion will weaken a tank from the inside and it will leak / fail without any indication from the outside. When I see a shop or business that locates their compressors and receiver tanks outside in an area where there is little foot traffic, it seems a bit safer to me. The drawback, in colder climates is the drains and PRV's could freeze and fail to work properly. If receiver tank failure is a concern, locate the unit outside under a shed or cover.
Tank failures are due to water and rust. Add an aftercooler and a condensate drain before the tank, and add an automatic drain on the tank and check regularly to make sure it's working. Rarely are tank failures catastrophic. More likely, a seam will rust out and create a slow leak. If you are concerned about a tank failure you can easily pressure test your own tank each year using a pressure washer - search the Internet for DIY hydrostatic testing.
I seriously doubt any air compressor tank has actually exploded and sent shrapnel flying. That would require thousands of pounds pressure, so much that the typical 5hp or lower until could ever produce. Even if the pressure relief valve failed the back pressure would have the compressor stalling at some point.
I've had a well made 20 gallon tank go without maintenance for 15 years, the tank rusted through the weld seam can began leaking. There are automatic tank valves that open for a short time each time the compressor starts, the idea is to expel any accumulated moisture. Those work well enough but nothing beats a thorough draining and perhaps physical inspection with a borescope or similar device.
IF an exploding compressor or tank is a concern build a well ventilated enclosure from 3/4" plywood--that should contain any 200 PSI or lower explosion.
It doesn't take thousands of PSI to have a tank failure. I have been doing pressure vessels and boilers for decades including annual certs and 5 year hydro tests. I have seen tanks in all ways. Your typical air receiver has the same energy potential as a 1/8 stick of dynamite for every 5 cubic feet at 150 psi. Obviously this is why you hydro test to failure and don't air test a vessel to failure. Have you ever seen or been around a 22.5 truck tire that explodes at 120 psi? That was roughly a 1/8 stick explosion.
However in all my years I have seen less than 5 actual air receiver explosions. I have seen thousands of them fail on the hydro test which is good because it prevents a in service failure.
It doesn't take thousands of PSI to have a tank failure. I have been doing pressure vessels and boilers for decades including annual certs and 5 year hydro tests. I have seen tanks in all ways. Your typical air receiver has the same energy potential as a 1/8 stick of dynamite for every 5 cubic feet at 150 psi. Obviously this is why you hydro test to failure and don't air test a vessel to failure. Have you ever seen or been around a 22.5 truck tire that explodes at 120 psi? That was roughly a 1/8 stick explosion.
However in all my years I have seen less than 5 actual air receiver explosions. I have seen thousands of them fail on the hydro test which is good because it prevents a in service failure.
nope....but i did have a 14-24 blow on a truck.
bent a 3/8 steel fender like it was paper mache.
Thanks for all the info. I had arranged to look at a used compressor today and the guy sold it on me during the time it took me to drive 4 blocks. He knew I was coming specifically to look at the compressor and nothing else. *****. I'm about over craigslist. Then he had the audacity to ask if I wanted his RWD Exploder. NO.
It's pretty frustrating compressor shopping. All the Chinese ones have awful reviews. Seems like the motors are undersized and they tend to burn out. The decent ones are way north of $1000. I'm sure they are worth it but not for a hobbyist.
It seems like a pretty basic tool. Not sure why it's so expensive. Tank, motor, compressor. That's it.
Thanks for all the info. I had arranged to look at a used compressor today and the guy sold it on me during the time it took me to drive 4 blocks. He knew I was coming specifically to look at the compressor and nothing else. *****. I'm about over craigslist. Then he had the audacity to ask if I wanted his RWD Exploder. NO.
It's pretty frustrating compressor shopping. All the Chinese ones have awful reviews. Seems like the motors are undersized and they tend to burn out. The decent ones are way north of $1000. I'm sure they are worth it but not for a hobbyist.
It seems like a pretty basic tool. Not sure why it's so expensive. Tank, motor, compressor. That's it.
Yes reciprocal compressors are basic but the three main components are very expensive if you lean towards quality. Price out a WEG or Baldor 5hp 184T frame and you are 600.00 minimum, then price shop the pumps and you will quickly realize to get past the consumer Reed valve style and get to a two stage with discount valves the pumps are about 800.00 for a entry mid level import pump. Add a Manchester or equivalent 80 gallon tank for another 800.00 and you still have controls, mag switch, sheave and belt guard. The price adds up and this is why the price gaps are so high.
One of the better entry level prosumer units is the Quincy QT-54. If you are a very light user you could do one of the very cheap 60 gallon units from the big box stores but don't be disappointed when it's loud or doesn't provide the high duty cycle. These can be had for 500.00 new and are purely throw away units. Quincy makes one of those also and it sports a Chinese pump and motor. What is you intended use and usage rate for the compressor?
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