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Hey i need some help on a fuel issue im having with a 93 f250 7.5/e4od 4x4. I had the stopped up filter symptoms last week and swapped the filter drove about 3 miles and started acting up again but not as severe. Drove on about another 10 miles and topped off front 20 gal tank with non ethanol (gauge read 3/4) and attempted to fill rear 19 gal tank(gauge read1/4) but rear only took 7 gal. Added stabil and left. As soon as i got home 12 miles later it started cutting out again. Plugs wires and dizzy all replaced about 3kmiles ago along with both fpumps. My first thought was since I don’t drive this truck very much(got it in 2014 with 118k now has 121k) the previous 93 oct Ethanol fuel had broken down and sludged up my filter(probably been in tanks 5wks) but after the supposedly bad read on the fuel gauge im questioning other things. I haven’t checked fpressure yet. It also seems worse when at operating temperature. I did blow thru the filter and there was alot of resistance. Any ideas?
If pressure checks out, either trash in fuel, fuel broken down (ethanol) and if the filter contains cellulose, the ethanol will break down the filtering media and foul the system. If the replacement filter is blocked, change filters before pressure test.
If pressure checks out, either trash in fuel, fuel broken down (ethanol) and if the filter contains cellulose, the ethanol will break down the filtering media and foul the system. If the replacement filter is blocked, change filters before pressure test.
Gonna check pressure tomorrow. As far the filter media, what filter should i use if burning ethanol? Or is that a simple web search?
If the filter(s) seems to be plugged, maybe cut it open and see what you find, whether trash, rust, varnish or media separation.
Is this carb or EFI? We can go from there. You might want to install, a new filter after the first reading to verify filter blockage and after to see if pressure/volume is to spec to be sure something else did not fail.
If the filter(s) seems to be plugged, maybe cut it open and see what you find, whether trash, rust, varnish or media separation.
Is this carb or EFI? We can go from there. You might want to install, a new filter after the first reading to verify filter blockage and after to see if pressure/volume is to spec to be sure something else did not fail.
If the filter(s) seems to be plugged, maybe cut it open and see what you find, whether trash, rust, varnish or media separation.
Is this carb or EFI? We can go from there. You might want to install, a new filter after the first reading to verify filter blockage and after to see if pressure/volume is to spec to be sure something else did not fail.
93 f250 7.5/e4od 4x4. I had the stopped up filter symptoms last week and swapped the filter drove about 3 miles and started acting up again but not as severe. Drove on about another 10 miles and topped off front 20 gal tank with non ethanol (gauge read 3/4) and attempted to fill rear 19 gal tank(gauge read1/4) but rear only took 7 gal. Added stabil and left. As soon as i got home 12 miles later it started cutting out again
Are your tanks metal or plastic? You are aware there are two types fuel conditioners, one use the other storage?
Last edited by KULTULZ; Jan 23, 2021 at 07:02 AM.
Reason: COFFEE HASN'T KICKED IN. Need JD.
Are your tanks metal or plastic? You are aware there are two types fuel conditioners, one use the other storage?
metal tanks. I had them out a few years ago for new pumps. They weren’t real bad but i did attempt to clean ot. I know there is a difference in the treatment but I really am only storing fuel in tanks because it takes so long to burn it LOL. On another note, why do the fuel lines connect both tanks? It seems to pull fuel from one to the other.
On another note, why do the fuel lines connect both tanks? It seems to pull fuel from one to the other.
Each tank has it's own high pressure pump, check valve and shuttle valve. If any of those valves are bad then you get the fuel cross flow issue all too common on these trucks.
A diagram from Subford:
Fuel Delivery module details:
The Fuel Delivery Module (FDM) consists of the fuel pump, inside a reservoir attached to the pump and sender assembly. The sender assembly handles the switching of the fuel through internal valves. The fuel pump is capable of pumping in excess of 125 liters (33 gallons) of fuel per hour at a working pressure of 270 kPa (39.2 psi). These pumps also have internal pressure relief, discharge check valves and fuel return provision. To service the FDM assembly, replace it.
So basically if im experiencing the cross flow that means i need to replace pumps? Is there a particular pump i should use since these aren’t very old and already having issues?
What you really need is the correct SHOP MANUAL that will give you a diagnostic sequence to find the problem(s). ALLDATA has an online manual for about twenty dollars a month that is good..
What you really need is the correct SHOP MANUAL that will give you a diagnostic sequence to find the problem(s). ALLDATA has an online manual for about twenty dollars a month that is good..
i have the chilton and the haynes manuals. I haven’t checked them for this yet.
i have the chilton and the haynes manuals. I haven’t checked them for this yet.
You need to cipher on them. Hopefully, they included a DIAGNOSTIC SEQUENCE to follow as what you are doing now is jumping all over the place and guessing. Will make it a lot easier and less costly.
So basically if im experiencing the cross flow that means i need to replace pumps? Is there a particular pump i should use since these aren’t very old and already having issues?
Many aftermarket pumps do not have the built-in high pressure check valve or it did not get installed when it was manufactured. More than a few times someone has found the latter on their new pump. The tank that is getting filled when not selected has a bad valve. Could be the high pressure check valve or the shuttle valve. If the latter you have to replace the entire Fuel Delivery Module (FDM).
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