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Got my '21 Lariat CC 6.7 just about a month ago. Still learning about the truck. The DPF Regen is still a mystery with lots of questions. I know what the DPF does and I know what the Regen is suppose to do. What I don't know is when does it do it and will I even know the regen is happening. I just started learning about FORScan and the ability to add the DPF% to the screen. Does the regen kick off when % reaches 100% and stops close to 0%. What happens when it kicks off while I'm doing a short trip? Most of my driving is around town with maybe a couple 45 minute highway trips a week. Would be great if I could plan a regen before making a highway trip. Is that even possible? Thanks!
You're going to get a lot of input on this. First, read your manual. You, as the owner, need to understand what FoMoCo wants you to know about the process. Mine isn't a 2021, but I'm guessing the manual is more or less the same on this topic. Once you know and could recite without going into the manual what the factory says regarding regens, you will discover that it's not something that should cause you any concern or the need to take some pre-emptive action. One important point from the manual is that if you are not using the truck in a way that will allow it to get into a regen, it will pop a warning to you telling you to drive the truck in a manner described in the manual. That's your fail safe.
Nobody here actually knows all of the parameters that drive the regen process from start to finish under the various conditions. Keep that in mind as you plow through the various responses.
If you get the screen enabled, you will discover that once the filter is full -mine is full at 99%. Others say 100%. I don't know if that's just a minor software difference or just rounding-, it will not go into regen until the engine and systems are fully up to operating conditions. So, if you do nothing but short trips or five miles or so, then it's unlikely you would ever get to an active regen. You'll get the warning message if you never take the truck out. But you say you're going to schedule a longer drive if you see the filter is full. I do the same thing. It's not really necessary, but that's how I do it. So, that's how it starts.
Everyone seems to have a different experience as to how fast regens occur and to what level the filter cleans. I have found that if I put the trans in Fourth gear on the highway at 70MPH, or around 2,500RPM, the regen goes pretty fast and I can get it down to zero. But if I have to stop and I'm at like 30%, it will not continue the regen. I have also discovered where I started a regen and I had to park for a couple hours with the screen at 70%. I thought that would be it and it would just regen again once it hit 99%. I got on the highway and after a couple miles, it went back into regen. It got down to around 30% when I hit side street traffic and it stopped there. I don't know if that 30% business is some notable mark, but if I drop speed, it always stops at 30%. Also, you don't need additives for the process to occur. I know the additive guys will be along with a laundry list of must-have additives, but the reality is they don't really do anything and you don't need them.
The regens, the DEF, the EGR are just systems that are part of a modern diesel. The factory tries to make the ownership experience as easy as possible. Some folks here try to make it as scary and hard as possible. Diesel ownership isn't for everyone. Over time, you will come to ignore the folks trying to scare you. You will get used to the regens and will pay less and less attention to the DPF% as time goes on since you will learn that it's just not that big of a deal.
Enjoy your new truck. I love that diesel. Puts a smile on my face every time I press the start button. And above all, don't worry, be happy.
I have the truck in my sig and I completely agree with everything C12H24 said. That's definitely an excellent summary that fits with my experiences.
Just to emphasize a couple points - you really don't need to pay any attention to regen. If nobody told you it happened, you'd only notice a funny smell now and then when you parked. After ForScan mods, my screen shows 100% right before a regen. Don't put a 10 speed transmission in 4th at 70MPH! (I know that's obvious, but I just wanted to comment - it wouldn't let you anyway)
If you stop in the middle of a regen, it's no big deal. It seems that it just goes back to plugging up the DPF again until it gets to 100%. My 2020 exhaust has DPF, EGR (with cooler), Cat, DEF injection & muffler all in the exhaust. If I had to keep track of all of that while driving, I'd have already crashed my new truck.
My best advice is to get something to monitor the DPF regen status. I say that with the thought of High EGT's when shutting it down and excess fuel in the exhaust or cylinders.
If you know it is in regen, you can decide to let it finish or at least let it idle and cool down and avoid oil dilution due to the fuel.
I monitor mine and keep track of the EGT's due to towing.
I'd agree with most of this but, I do take exception to:
Originally Posted by C12H24
I know the additive guys will be along with a laundry list of must-have additives, but the reality is they don't really do anything and you don't need them.
Unfortunately, you are uninformed if you don't see the need for a fuel additive. If you need evidence that current diesel fuel in the US lacks vital lubricity, look no further than the class action lawsuit about the CP4 injection pump.
Additives aren't needed so much for DPF or regen but, they're great for demulsification of the diesel and any water that may be present (this allows your water-in-fuel separator have a better shot at filtering out the water). Plus, additives can add back that missing lubricity. Both of which can help save you a ton of money on your fuel system.
Now, back to the DPF. I leave mine on auto-regen until it gets to about 85%. Then, I'll take it off auto. Which is a bit annoying because the truck warns you every time you start it that auto has been disabled. When it gets to 100%, I will either A) switch back on auto [if I know I'm going to be on the road for a hot minute] or B) park it, engage the parking brake and do a stationary regen.
I like the stationary because it will drop the DPF to 0%. Option A for me got to like 30% before I hit traffic. At that point, it did not restart itself and I had to wait for it to build back up to 100%.
*disclosure: I'm an AMSOIL Dealer (and have been for many years). That being said, you don't have to be 'drinking the kool-aid' to see that there are a lot of people with CP4 problems. But, look closely and you will see the same CP4 has been used in Europe where it has performed well. The problem is our ULSD. Back-in-the-day, sulfur in the diesel added lubricity. However, sulfur in the diesel is not good for tailpipe emissions. So, please welcome to the stage, ULSD. Ultra-low has reduced sulfur and, thereby, reduced lubricity.
I'd agree with most of this but, I do take exception to:
Unfortunately, you are uninformed if you don't see the need for a fuel additive.....
Oh, I think I'm pretty well informed. But I don't have any problem with you using additives, elixirs, balms, creams, powders, lotions, treated towels, copper wraps, magnets or whatever you think is making a difference.
*disclosure: I'm an AMSOIL Dealer (and have been for many years). That being said, you don't have to be 'drinking the kool-aid' to see that there are a lot of people with CP4 problems. But, look closely and you will see the same CP4 has been used in Europe where it has performed well. The problem is our ULSD. Back-in-the-day, sulfur in the diesel added lubricity. However, sulfur in the diesel is not good for tailpipe emissions. So, please welcome to the stage, ULSD. Ultra-low has reduced sulfur and, thereby, reduced lubricity.
This is true. However, everything about CP4 problems cites US diesel as the problem. So, there may be something to the lubricity more than the low sulfur. Either way, lack of lubricity and water contamination are named for the problem. With a fuel additive, you can reduce the threat of both of those.
Originally Posted by carcomplaints.com
The CP4 high-pressure fuel injection pumps allegedly cannot handle U.S. diesel fuel specifications.
Originally Posted by Morgan&MorganLawOffices
The primary reason the CP4 pump is said to fail is because the pump was not designed for diesel fuel in the United States.
Originally Posted by hbsslaw
Unbeknownst to truck owners, Bosch’s CP4 pump was never compatible with American fuel standards and not built to withstand the specifications for U.S. diesel fuel in terms of lubrication or water content.