Front end work
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 129
Likes: 12
Front end work
Hey y’all. Making a appointment for front ball joints, dust seals, leaf spring bushings.
anything else I should get done while it’s all apart?
I switched to manual hubs so not worried about the air tight seal replacement magig.
anything else I should get done while it’s all apart?
I switched to manual hubs so not worried about the air tight seal replacement magig.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,092
Likes: 145
From: San Diego, CA
If they haven't been changed out before I would put in new u-joints on the front axles since they're out.
Compared to the cost of the rest of the work (and the axles are already out) they are not that expensive and it would be good preventive maintenance. I recommend Spicer u-joints as they are the OEM supplier, fit perfectly, and are of better quality than most others.
Compared to the cost of the rest of the work (and the axles are already out) they are not that expensive and it would be good preventive maintenance. I recommend Spicer u-joints as they are the OEM supplier, fit perfectly, and are of better quality than most others.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 151
Likes: 2
From: Hendersonville, NC
I would get entire new leaf springs if you're going to that trouble, don't forget the new U bolts. While apart I would modify the hubs so you can grease them, change the track bar, drag link, lower tie bar and ball joints, steering damper, steering box with redhead unit, and may as well do the shocks while your in there, but you don't want to do just the front two so hit the rears and grab it all in one swipe. While you're at the rears might as well check the brakes, definitely do brake lines since the rubber is old and that's a safety item, and you'll need to flush out the brake system. Since you'll have it jacked up do the grease fitting mod on the driveshaft yoke, do the hutch mod, harpoon mod, change the rear diff fluid (better do the front too), and don't forget to check the diff vent tubes. Hit the transfer case and do a fluid change as well as the trans so you'll have it all covered. That does it for most of the outer components, let us know when you get done with that and we'll help you start on the engine.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 129
Likes: 12
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,664
Likes: 219
From: Northwest
Get your truck to a Heavy Duty Truck Alignment shop (not a car shop) and listen to what they are telling you before throwing a lot of parts at it.... No need to have a truck with a "like new" front end when the engine and trans will be needing repairs. You have no service records so you must piece together the history of the entire truck. At 200k miles the PS will need routine maintenance, which is expensive if you can't do the work...Bring the entire truck along as a unit when it comes to maintenance... It will serve you well.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,092
Likes: 145
From: San Diego, CA
Always grease the needle bearing if you're pulling the hub off. It's a pain to remove but you can buy just the needle bearing. It's not listed as a separate part with Ford (you can only buy the whole hub assembly) but IIRC the part number is B2110.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 1,919
From: Ponca City, OK
$2500 for what exactly, is thay parts and labor? I recommend sourcing your own parts. That will save you the shops markup plus you'll know what you have. Provided they actually install what you brought them
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,092
Likes: 145
From: San Diego, CA
You can request to see the old parts and packaging. They have to show you what they took off and the empty boxes of what you gave them.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,631
Likes: 564
I highly agree with this. When I haven't been able to do something myself (which is rare) I will buy the part needing to be installed and take it to a trusted shop.