To be clear that problem went away after replacing the IAC valve. As a matter of fact I found that it idled higher than I wanted and had to adjust it down some.

I thought I could attach the tune file to this post, but I can't see a way to do that. If you PM me your email address I will email you a copy of my tune file.

 

I doubt you can attach the file because it likely isn't one of the approved file extensions.

 

Just checking to make sure I've got this right.

Stinger PimpX appears to be a batch fire, SD style installation. Info on the MegaSquirt site says you remove the factory AF metering? PimpXS would be the sequential injection model, Also SD?

Stinger PIMP | MegaSquirt
https://www.stinger-performance.com/...ine-management

 

Yes! You are correct You an call/or message them for help with any questions they are prompt with answering

 

Yes, both are speed density. There is no reason to use any mass air equipment with the megasquirt system. You can gather a small amount of data with MAF but there is no real need for it.

 

Yes, by default they are both Speed Density. However, I saw a post on their support forum asking this question and they said that you can run them as Mass Air if you choose to, but that so far all of their customers have been pleased with tuneable SD and no one has opted to change it to Mass Air.

Yes, you replace your current O2 Sensor with a Wideband O2 Controller and sensor.

PiMPx = Batch fired injectors
PiMPxs = Sequentially fired injectors (but I believe you can set a jumper to run it as batch fired if you wanted to start there and convert to sequentially fired later)

 

When the company was here, the rep said it configured to what you have at time of purchase.

Since I "have" a 94, sequential injected, MAF 5.0 & E4, that is what I've been led to understand I will get & it should plug directly into my slot with no(?) modifications to harness.

Maybe I need to track down the quote, but that was what I understood.

He also said I could delete the MAF function & go back to SD as most do.

 

I didn't have to move any wires on mine since it was batch fire SD, but I believe EllieMae said he had to move some wires around on his ECU connector since it was sequentially injected (to make it match the Mustang ECU pinout). For the life of me I'll never understand why Ford used a different pinout on the Mustang ECU vs the truck ECU.

 

That's correct. Below is a screen shot of the pins that have to be swapped for a sequential setup. In addition to these there are 3 or 4 pins that I had to swap for my 4R70W. The E4OD has one less pin I believe. Also, I had to drill into the PCM connector for one of the tranny shift solenoids. Stinger provided the drill bit and has a video on how to do it on their YouTube page.

David, you can "delete" all the MAF stuff but there really is no need to. These PiMP computers have an internal MAP sensor built into them. I'm still rocking all my factory MAF components no problem and am using the 4 pin MAF connector wired to read oil pressure, and also using the stock EGR wires for a fuel pressure sensor.

 

If anybody is interested I have an Excel spreadsheet that shows all 60 pins and which need to moved to their new location and the analog inputs for wiring pressure gauges that I can email to you.

 

I included the video above showing how to drill the ECU connector and move wires.
I didn't have to move any wires, but I drilled the ECU connector so I could add a wire to pin 55 to control my electric fan.

 

What do you mean when you say you "drilled the ECU connector"? The wire harness plug that goes into the ECU disassembles to allow you to re-pin it. I'm not looking at one right now, but from memory, you should only have to pull the black cover off on the wire side to expose the wires you're going to move around and gain access to the area. Then pull the red insert out of the face that mates to the ECU. This allows you to use a pick to unlatch a wire if you want to move it. Then the wire can be reinserted into the wiring side of the plug and it will clip in. Then reinsert the red cover on the face, and reinstall the black cover on the wire side. I had to add wires to my harness for electric fans and some other stuff as well.

 

When I converted my SD harness I drilled the outer hard shell to pass the additional 6 injector wire & the MAF wires into the ECU plug.

 

You are correct that you can move wires around the way that you described above, but to put a wire where there wasn't one before (Pin 55 in my case) you have to pull the black cover off to expose the ECU connector, then drill a hole in the back of the connector, and punch out the small plug that was left behind...Then you can add a new wire there. This video from Stinger Performance shows it very clearly.

 

I worked enough slack in the cover & got the majority of the wires to all move parallel up harness for about a half inch or so.

Used a much smaller bit. Used a pick to to create pilot hole.