V8 Swap and PiMPx install
#17
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...xoCcEUQAvD_BwE
This is the AFR gauge I use in all of my trucks. I had some gauges from Innovate Motorsports when I first put the PimpX in my 89, and had all kinds of issues that I thought were fuel system related. Constant lean conditions, then it would read full rich without making any changes, then the gauge would claim the sensor was bad. Warrantied out 2 of these before giving up on them. Swapped to this style AEM, and haven't looked back. Things are absolutely flawless.
If you buy an AFR gauge that has an integrated controller, like the AEM I linked to, you do NOT need to buy the Spartan 2 unit. The gauge does all the work for you.
I have my AFR gauge and an Oil pressure gauge on the top of my dash in my 89, on the right side, on the slope. Very similar mount to the first one scndsin showed. Not in the way at all, but easy to glance at. On my '94, I made my own gauge cluster for water temp, tach, speedo, and oil pressure, and also removed the HVAC controls and am using that space for fuel level and AFR gauges, planning to add a volt gauge to this same area as well.
This is the AFR gauge I use in all of my trucks. I had some gauges from Innovate Motorsports when I first put the PimpX in my 89, and had all kinds of issues that I thought were fuel system related. Constant lean conditions, then it would read full rich without making any changes, then the gauge would claim the sensor was bad. Warrantied out 2 of these before giving up on them. Swapped to this style AEM, and haven't looked back. Things are absolutely flawless.
If you buy an AFR gauge that has an integrated controller, like the AEM I linked to, you do NOT need to buy the Spartan 2 unit. The gauge does all the work for you.
I have my AFR gauge and an Oil pressure gauge on the top of my dash in my 89, on the right side, on the slope. Very similar mount to the first one scndsin showed. Not in the way at all, but easy to glance at. On my '94, I made my own gauge cluster for water temp, tach, speedo, and oil pressure, and also removed the HVAC controls and am using that space for fuel level and AFR gauges, planning to add a volt gauge to this same area as well.
#18
What does retaining or deleting the EGR have to do with long tube vs shorty headers? If you wanted to delete the EGR there are SD EGR delete procedures to trick the computer into thinking it is still there. I have Comp 35-349-8 camshaft with 1.7 Scorpion rocker arms and it was down on power compared to the stock setup so I went mass air. I wonder how the OEM 351 computer would have dealt with the roller cam and 1.7 rocker arms compared to the PIMPx computer.
#19
Later I learned about the PiMPx ECU and decided to go that route. PiMPx doesn't support any of the factory smog equipment, including EGR. With PiMPx you can get as custom as you want to, and I have seen on their forums where some people have done some custom outputs to trigger the EGR valve, but I'm not interested in that so I just made an EGR delete plate to cap it off and zip-tied the extra wiring out of sight.
I know that's not exactly what you asked, but I feel certain that if the stock SD ECU can run a higher lift cam with 1.7 Roller Rockers it would have no problem running the stock roller cam with 1.7 Roller Rockers.
#21
I'll offer another plug for the AEM widebands. I'm going on 4 years of daily driving with the one in my turbo ranger with flawless performance. I had used the innovate ones in the past, nothing but issues. I think I read somewhere the innovate system has a design flaw where the controller doesn't control the heating element in the sensor and it burns itself up.
I've never tried the spartan ones Stinger sells so I can't offer an opinion on those. I would trust his recommendation though.
I've never tried the spartan ones Stinger sells so I can't offer an opinion on those. I would trust his recommendation though.
#22
For what it's worth the Spartan 2 is a stand alone product from www.14point7.com . Stinger just offers it as an option with PiMPx .
So, if your AEM wideband does burn itself up you could always replace it with a Spartan, since they both send output as 0v-5v .
https://www.14point7.com/products/sp...a-controller-2
So, if your AEM wideband does burn itself up you could always replace it with a Spartan, since they both send output as 0v-5v .
https://www.14point7.com/products/sp...a-controller-2
#23
I thought I would update and let everyone know that a new IAC valve solved my cold start problem.
Also, it's worth noting that the base tune from Stinger comes with the frequency for the IAC set to 99Hz, which seems to work fine, but causes the IAC to buzz.
I read somewhere that the Ford ECU pulses the IAC at 300Hz. Tunerstudio didn't have an option for 300Hz exactly, but it had a value that was very close (306Hz if memory serves me right). When I changed to that value the buzzing stopped and the IAC seems to work as desired.
Also, it's worth noting that the base tune from Stinger comes with the frequency for the IAC set to 99Hz, which seems to work fine, but causes the IAC to buzz.
I read somewhere that the Ford ECU pulses the IAC at 300Hz. Tunerstudio didn't have an option for 300Hz exactly, but it had a value that was very close (306Hz if memory serves me right). When I changed to that value the buzzing stopped and the IAC seems to work as desired.
#25
I thought I would update and let everyone know that a new IAC valve solved my cold start problem.
Also, it's worth noting that the base tune from Stinger comes with the frequency for the IAC set to 99Hz, which seems to work fine, but causes the IAC to buzz.
I read somewhere that the Ford ECU pulses the IAC at 300Hz. Tunerstudio didn't have an option for 300Hz exactly, but it had a value that was very close (306Hz if memory serves me right). When I changed to that value the buzzing stopped and the IAC seems to work as desired.
Also, it's worth noting that the base tune from Stinger comes with the frequency for the IAC set to 99Hz, which seems to work fine, but causes the IAC to buzz.
I read somewhere that the Ford ECU pulses the IAC at 300Hz. Tunerstudio didn't have an option for 300Hz exactly, but it had a value that was very close (306Hz if memory serves me right). When I changed to that value the buzzing stopped and the IAC seems to work as desired.
#26
You're very welcome. While I'm very pleased with my PiMPx ECU, if I were you I'd get my AFR gauge working first and see where your AFR is. If your MAF swap is running well and the AFR is ok I'm not sure if you'll see a huge benefit unless you're planning on more future mods.
#28
I thought I would update and let everyone know that a new IAC valve solved my cold start problem.
Also, it's worth noting that the base tune from Stinger comes with the frequency for the IAC set to 99Hz, which seems to work fine, but causes the IAC to buzz.
I read somewhere that the Ford ECU pulses the IAC at 300Hz. Tunerstudio didn't have an option for 300Hz exactly, but it had a value that was very close (306Hz if memory serves me right). When I changed to that value the buzzing stopped and the IAC seems to work as desired.
Also, it's worth noting that the base tune from Stinger comes with the frequency for the IAC set to 99Hz, which seems to work fine, but causes the IAC to buzz.
I read somewhere that the Ford ECU pulses the IAC at 300Hz. Tunerstudio didn't have an option for 300Hz exactly, but it had a value that was very close (306Hz if memory serves me right). When I changed to that value the buzzing stopped and the IAC seems to work as desired.
If possible, would you be able to send a copy of your current tune. We have pretty similar setups and would like to compare mine with yours. I’m curious how your fuel VE table vs. mine and what your AFR table is too.
#29
...At this point the only issue I have is with cold starts when it's below about 40 degrees outside. I'm pretty sure I have a bad IAC (one of the few items I didn't replace on this engine when building it). I can see that ECU is commanding the IAC valve to open up to 70%, but the engine never never idles up... so the problem doesn't appear to be the fault of the ECU. ...
I haven't changed the AFR table, so they're probably the same if you're still using the AFR table from the base tune.
#30